Backyard forge area

weo

weo

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Sep 21, 2014
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Hello all. Now that I'm moved into my new place, it's time to get the forges and anvils set up. The owner has her forge and anvils set up in her backyard under a tent, but the yard is very uneven and her anvil stumps are just sitting on the grass. We're talking about how to integrate my stuff with hers, and one thing I don't agree with is just having our stuff on the wet grass.
Tomorrow I'm planning on taking a shovel/hoe to the area and at least level out the ground. I also suggested making boxes filled with gravel or something else for the anvil stumps to keep them from rotting out, but she doesn't like that idea.
Any suggestions?
 
I actually am going to mount my anvil on a post behind shed next weekend. I am digging a hole as deep as i can with post hole diggers, about 4 feet deep and foot and half wide. Then i will put a couple broken pieces of concrete slab in the bottom and fill with concrete and use a form to make a dome about 3 inches or so above the ground.

When i tore out my deck on my house the main posts were set like that, best i can tell, and they avoided rot whereas the retaining wall 4x6s were rotted so bad i tore it apart by hand and the lag bolts just pulled out of the rotten wood.
 
Being encased in concrete works well to keep wood from rotting; it's one reason concrete was poured as ballast into the bottom of wood fishing boats back in the old days before steel and fiberglass fishing boats became the norm.
 
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I worked outside under a 10X20 tent for many years. A gravel area around the anvil is a good idea. A better one is to make a ground level deck around the anvil and work area. evemn an 8X12 foot deck can make working outside a lot nicer and neater. It makes blowing off leaves and such easier, too.

Build/buy a small shed and put it adjacent to the smithy (forge area).to keep the steel and other supplies more secure and protected from the elements. A 6X8 will hold a lot.

Also, get a bunch of BBQ grill covers and drop them over the anvil, forges, post vises, etc. when not in use.
 
Thanks for the replies all.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
A better one is to make a ground level deck around the anvil and work area.
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Would you use pressure treated lumber or untreated. I know PT lumber will resist rotting better, but I'm leery of the fumes that may occur when dropping hot stuff. (As I type this, I suppose I could use PT for the joists and untreated for the decking....)

We've got about 5 sheds/tents in the yard so that's covered (the owner also makes longbows, does jewelry and woodworking). We just need to figure out how to integrate my tools with hers. The biggest decision I need to make is whether or not to sell my brand new, unused Jen-Ken Fiber Front loader 24, because she already has 3 HT ovens/kilns.
 
PT lumber has no fumes issues when hot stuff drops on it. It is ACQ, Alkaline Copper Quartenary. It is neither toxic or an environmental hazard. The old days of arsenic treated lumber are far gone. You have much more to worry about from the forge fumes and fine particulates.

Use PT lumber for all outdoors projects or you will be wasting your money. An alternate is to make a 10X12 foot PT 4X4 frame around the whole smithy area. Make sure it is level, and have a truck dump 3 yards of crusher-run in it. Once raked out and packed down with time/walking on it, it will be rock solid. It makes an excellent forge floor ... indoors or out. That way, if you decide to build a shed over the forge area, you have a 4X4 foundation plate and a floor ready to go. Just add three walls and a shed roof to get a nice smithy. I suggest the shed roof extend 8 feet past the walls to get a nice open area with a roof.You can add doors to close it off if you want. I'll look around. I have plans I drew for this type building somewhere. The nice thing is it can be built in stages as you save up funds.
 
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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
PT lumber has no fumes issues when hot stuff drops on it
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Thanks Stacy. I did not know that.

As far as going through the effort to dig up plans, I appreciate it, but don't go through the effort just for me. These decisions aren't mine to make and I'm still trying to convince her to let me do this. I'm pretty sure all I'll be able to convince her of is framing a deck to lay on the ground.
 
Sound like a good plan. The best thing about framing and decking a 10X12 or 12X12 area is it is a simple one afternoon project and can easily ne moved as needed. Also, it is easily leveled on pretty much any lot.

Tip:
Deck it in 2X6 boards and frame/joist it in 2X8's. It will barely cost any more than using deck boards, but will last three times longer.
 
Last night I think I got the OK to do something, but she's not sure what.
Currently our options are:
(a) A solid 12x12 deck with anvils, post vice and guillotine tool and table with shear secured to the deck framing,
(b) A U-shaped or L-shaped deck with post vice, guillotine tool and shear secured to the deck and anvils on posts in the ground, with the forging area on the dirt
Her main concern is that homeowner's insurance will not like a forging area on a wood deck, and that's understandable.
 
Why would the homeowners insurance care about the wooden deck. A BBQ grill is usually on a deck. You are not dealing with anything that can light the deck on fire. Put the deck at least 20 feet away from the house and the insurance company won't care what you do on it. 20 feet is the open flame setback for most states and insurance regulations. People do not realize it, and almost no one enforces it, but BBQ grills are supposed to be 20 feet from an occupied building in most places. In many states, propane tanks have to be kept 20 feet away from occupied buildings, too.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Why would the homeowners insurance care about the wooden deck
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Or maybe the question should be: Why should... As most of us who have been around for at least a few decades probably know, the the appearance of a risk is more important than the actual risk to some folks.

I'm still trying to convince her of the benefits of getting us up off the wet ground here in Portland, OR.
 
Just gonna be real here, I doubt "integrating" your tools with hers is going to work out. The best thing (in my opinion the only thing) that's going to work is if you get a corner of the yard as "yours" to set up your tools the way you want with minimal interference.
 
Hope you can get everything sorted out to satisfy both.
 
Mecha said:
... get a corner of the yard as "yours" to set up your tools the way you want with minimal interference
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That would be ideal, but not possible.

DanF said:
Hope you can get everything sorted out to satisfy both.
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Thanks Dan. I think we're getting close. I may be ready for pictures tomorrow.
 
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