Bad Assist Springs?

S

Sentinel641

Joined
Jan 8, 2014
Messages
303
My new 586 was pretty stiff out of the box and wasn't as smooth as I'd like it to be. So after dropping a tad bit of nano-oil in my 586 the assist function seems very very sluggish. And it would "misfire" if I didn't flick the thumbstud up with my thumb.

Is there anyway I could fix this?
 
To not to void warrantee, you should send it back to Benchmade.

If you are willing to do DIY, remove handle and check the AXIS assist spring (not omega springs). Make sure it latches and then tighten up pivot screw.

Make sure you have not cheap torx screw sets. (Otherwise you will strip the torx head or bend the screw driver itself)

As it is a bit complicated, I would really recommend someone who know what it is going on. Legally, you are voiding warrantee so don't blame BKC if it doesn't fix.
 
Some knives need more breaking in than others. Before sending it in, if that's your choice, play with it for a few days. They tend to put plenty of Bluelube inside the works, but it won't be the first time a knife has to go up. I have no problem with taking a knife apart, it's the re-assembly that sometimes becomes a problem. :rolleyes:
 
The strange thing is, I didn't notice any lubricant in the mechanism or seeping out of the pivot, when I opened the box.
 
If I remember correctly, the 586 has the pivot post showing on one scale/side and nothing showing on the other scale/side.
I would remove the scale showing nothing, this will reveal the pivot screw.
I would losen the pivot screw a very, very little bit and test the function.
If this fixes the issue, lube, adjust and re-assemble.
If that doesnt do anything, I'd send back to BM and let them do the dirty work.
 
UPDATE: I took off both aluminum bolsters and cleaned them out completely with rubbing alcohol, then left the bolster screws snug. It seems to have fixed it for now. I just wouldn't think that lubing an axis-assist model or an axis lock in general would have any detrimental effects to the locking system.
 
Jastab said:
Just fix it yourself, to hell with " warranty"
Click to expand...

Amen to that. If you take it apart and the warranty is voided, who cares. I've stripped a couple of my 580's down to bare springs after years of use. Cleaned, lubed, reassembled. It's not hard. If you go that route, however, here's a tip... You MUST take out the thumb stub to get the assist spring properly seated in the blade.

Anyhow, if your assist seems sluggish and is practically new, it is possible that the liners you have a slightly offset. If they are off by even a little, it'll cause the Axis Lock button to hang up a bit and your blade will come out slowly. Take of the grips, and back off the liner screws a tiny bit. Manipulate the blade a bit, when it performs better, tighten up and reassemble.
 
To be honest, I do take them apart myself. But that doesn't mean I should recommend to anyone to do so. That would be irresponsible. I go with Keyman's advice as he is the one of resident expert. :)

Sentinel641, be careful in cleaning with rubbing alcohol as it removes all lubrication. You might want to oil the pivot just a tad bit. Any light oil should do fine. (I use Slip2000 EWL, but some uses CPL, etc)
 
Sentinel641 said:
UPDATE: I took off both aluminum bolsters and cleaned them out completely with rubbing alcohol, then left the bolster screws snug. It seems to have fixed it for now. I just wouldn't think that lubing an axis-assist model or an axis lock in general would have any detrimental effects to the locking system.
Click to expand...

The blade stop pin screws were probably too tight. If the stop pin screws are tightened too much, it puts pressure on the frame and makes it tighter than the blade/washers are wide. It's probably why BM's blade stop pin screws always seem to be goobered up with Loctite - they don't crank them down, and count on the thread locker to hold them in place?
 
MatthewSB said:
The blade stop pin screws were probably too tight. If the stop pin screws are tightened too much, it puts pressure on the frame and makes it tighter than the blade/washers are wide. It's probably why BM's blade stop pin screws always seem to be goobered up with Loctite - they don't crank them down, and count on the thread locker to hold them in place?
Click to expand...

I had a 530 that went back and forth to the factory and in the end all it was the stop pin being too tight. Backed off the set screw and it flicked easily. Lesson learned and now shared. :)
 
jkarp_53 said:
I had a 530 that went back and forth to the factory and in the end all it was the stop pin being too tight. Backed off the set screw and it flicked easily. Lesson learned and now shared. :)
Click to expand...

I believe you guys but I don't see how the stop pin being too tight would cause any torque in the reame or compression of the blade... The stop pin has a sleeve at the proper width for blade and washers, so even if you impact drove those screws in it wouldn't affect the blade performance.
 
NIKLASAL said:
I believe you guys but I don't see how the stop pin being too tight would cause any torque in the reame or compression of the blade... The stop pin has a sleeve at the proper width for blade and washers, so even if you impact drove those screws in it wouldn't affect the blade performance.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily true on this particular knife. Benchmade uses an array of stop pin setups, but on this one with the screws coming in from both sides, I have held examples that you could tighten it far enough to bind the blade. I don't know if all of the Barrages are like that, or if it is a case of manufacturing tolerances allowing some of of the sleeves to be slighly short, allowing them to bind.
 
NIKLASAL said:
I believe you guys but I don't see how the stop pin being too tight would cause any torque in the reame or compression of the blade... The stop pin has a sleeve at the proper width for blade and washers, so even if you impact drove those screws in it wouldn't affect the blade performance.
Click to expand...

It's not just BM's designs either, I know that Spyderco's "pivot bushing system" knives (Yojimbo 2, Para 2, etc.) are the same way, where over tightening the blade stop pin screws will bind the action.

I've personally seen a 586 that would not even open fully, new from the factory, because of over tightened blade stop pin screws.
 
NIKLASAL said:
I believe you guys but I don't see how the stop pin being too tight would cause any torque in the reame or compression of the blade... The stop pin has a sleeve at the proper width for blade and washers, so even if you impact drove those screws in it wouldn't affect the blade performance.
Click to expand...

I've got some news for you: overtightening the stop pin screws will bind the blade and slow it down. Happens on the Rift also (did it the last time I disassembled it). It will do the same thing on the 586.
 
loonybin said:
I've got some news for you: overtightening the stop pin screws will bind the blade and slow it down. Happens on the Rift also (did it the last time I disassembled it). It will do the same thing on the 586.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what the problem was! Thanks to all of you guys for the information :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top