I`m working on a little project for myself,a loosely kindjal based relatively lightweight short sword. The stock is 3/16" 5160 and I`m using the stock removal method as I do with the sheath knives I make. I`ve done some big bowies but they were meant to be choppers where I`d like this to be well balanced and fast. The edge is swept back to an acute point and the blade is 18" long and about 1 1/2" wide at it`s widest. It has a one handed grip. Not knowing as much as I`d like about the dynamics of swords I`m wondering where do I want to make it`s balance point? Also any suggestions on how high I should make the primary grind and the use of a convex edge would be helpfull. Marcus
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Balance point for light short sword?
- Thread starter Marcus
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2000
- Messages
- 1,077
Hmmm....I think Jerry Hossom, Gaucho and other well respected forumites would be able to give you some advice on this.
Marcus,
Sounds like a great project
.
IMO, if you want a short sword with an 18" blade- and therefore an OAL of approx. 24"- to feel well balanced and fast in the hand, locate the center of balance about an 1" to 2" ahead of the guard.
Your stock thickness at 3/16" is right on for a blade this length. It should be plenty strong and yet have a nice flex to it. How do you intend to profile the blade? Hollow grind, convex grind, flat grind? In general though, remove as much stock as possible in order to the achieve the lightest sword that you can. Also consider a distal taper. Remember, all else being equal, lighter is faster.
Finally, definitely go with a convex edge on a sword. It is much less likely to chip or roll during cutting practice than a simple beveled edge. Also, consider putting a sharpened false edge or swedge on your sword to allow for backcutting. It means that you will have to consider how to reinforce the tip, but it adds a whole other dimension to the sword's capabilities.
That's the two second Monday morning version. Don't hesitate to e-mail me with any other questions. And don't forget to post pics when the project is done
!
Good Luck,
Mario
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Gaucho
Tuvo muy mala suerte...se callo en mi cuchillo.
Sounds like a great project
IMO, if you want a short sword with an 18" blade- and therefore an OAL of approx. 24"- to feel well balanced and fast in the hand, locate the center of balance about an 1" to 2" ahead of the guard.
Your stock thickness at 3/16" is right on for a blade this length. It should be plenty strong and yet have a nice flex to it. How do you intend to profile the blade? Hollow grind, convex grind, flat grind? In general though, remove as much stock as possible in order to the achieve the lightest sword that you can. Also consider a distal taper. Remember, all else being equal, lighter is faster.
Finally, definitely go with a convex edge on a sword. It is much less likely to chip or roll during cutting practice than a simple beveled edge. Also, consider putting a sharpened false edge or swedge on your sword to allow for backcutting. It means that you will have to consider how to reinforce the tip, but it adds a whole other dimension to the sword's capabilities.
That's the two second Monday morning version. Don't hesitate to e-mail me with any other questions. And don't forget to post pics when the project is done
Good Luck,
Mario
------------------
Gaucho
Tuvo muy mala suerte...se callo en mi cuchillo.
Thanks for the responses I was begining to think this thread was just gonna lay here.
I`m planning on a full convex grind (all but flat) with a gradual distal taper. I`m gonna leave just enough meat at the tip that I can do a sharpened swedge if I want. I gather most kindjals were double edged but I wanted to have a nice thin primary edge and a sturdy spine on this one. I making a few other changes to the typical pattern I`ve seen as well. I`m smoothing out the transition from grip to pommel on the back side,using a 1/4" thick single brass guard, some kind of exotic hardwood scales and mosaic grip pins.
Marcus
- Joined
- Nov 26, 1999
- Messages
- 127
An interesting feature of the traditional Georgian kindjhal is the assymetrical cross-section, the fullers are not in line with each other. The cross-section is actually vaguely Z-shaped.