- Joined
- Nov 16, 2002
- Messages
- 9,948
This is what $3.99 and some lapping film can do for you:
This is some fun-tac to sometimes keep the hones from sliding on the sharpening surface:
Doesn't always work.
This is lapping film on a piece of balsa on a fun-tac-fastened surface:
I've used these twice and the results from the first time were heartening (took a ZDP folder to a level of sharpness I haven't bothered with in months) and the second time was, well, it exposed the folly of a previous sharpening job, but the sharpness was still good.
What's nice about balsa topped with sandpaper, lapping film, or buffing compound:
1. It's cheap and effective for most every knife.
2. The softness of the balsa encourages a light touch.
3. Choice of abrasives is open to anything you can stick to a flattish surface.
What's objectionable about balsa topped with that stuff:
1. Edge-leading strokes limited to the coarser grit for lapping films if at all.
2. Fun-tac doesn't work all of the time.
3. Unlike a float-glass backing or most waterstones, light touch is mandatory, so "I took that knife from 180 grit to 8,000 grit in 10 minutes" is no longer the case. Also, if you start with the medium-fine lapping film instead of the plain medium lapping film, the scratches on the back-bevel left by the 180 grit stone from last time will just stand out more and mock you (no effect on sharpness, though).
That's my stupid idea that other people have already done better and more people will soon outdo, but it was fun, so it's being shared.
This is some fun-tac to sometimes keep the hones from sliding on the sharpening surface:
Doesn't always work.
This is lapping film on a piece of balsa on a fun-tac-fastened surface:
I've used these twice and the results from the first time were heartening (took a ZDP folder to a level of sharpness I haven't bothered with in months) and the second time was, well, it exposed the folly of a previous sharpening job, but the sharpness was still good.
What's nice about balsa topped with sandpaper, lapping film, or buffing compound:
1. It's cheap and effective for most every knife.
2. The softness of the balsa encourages a light touch.
3. Choice of abrasives is open to anything you can stick to a flattish surface.
What's objectionable about balsa topped with that stuff:
1. Edge-leading strokes limited to the coarser grit for lapping films if at all.
2. Fun-tac doesn't work all of the time.
3. Unlike a float-glass backing or most waterstones, light touch is mandatory, so "I took that knife from 180 grit to 8,000 grit in 10 minutes" is no longer the case. Also, if you start with the medium-fine lapping film instead of the plain medium lapping film, the scratches on the back-bevel left by the 180 grit stone from last time will just stand out more and mock you (no effect on sharpness, though).
That's my stupid idea that other people have already done better and more people will soon outdo, but it was fun, so it's being shared.