Band saw blues

Phil705

Phil705

Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
360
OK, so I get a new 18 tpi blade (non bi-metal) for my Grizzly metal cutting band saw. I start on some 1/8th inch A-2, and am cutting like crazy, maybe 2-3 inches per minute. I'm on a medium speed. All of a sudden, it's as if I hit a brick wall. The cutting rate dropped dramatically.

So I backed off on the speed, and tried again. No better. I tried it on some 1/8th inch 440C and 1/16th ATS 34, no problem, cutting almost as good as before. I go back to the A-2, and it will cut, but ever so slowly.

Did I wreck the blade running it too hard or too fast?? The knife steel was warm to the touch, not hot. Any advice appreciated. And yes, I will invest in a bi-metal blade next time, but I don't want to wreck that one too!

Phil Millam
Winthrop WA
 
A2 is an air hardening steel and it may have gotten hot enough to spot harden a little.. Try cutting the same piece in another area and see how it goes...
 
could your a2 have a hardend area? i did this on a piece of scrap steel to try out quenchant, it was to small for fixed blade work but when i tried to drill it out for a backspring i forgot i hardened it , dang near ruined a drill bit in the process.
 
This is from Kit Carson

"Put the saw blade on the machine just tight enough to hold it. Run it for 10-15 minutes to get the kinks out, tighten it up, and when you start cutting, use about 50% pressure for the first hour then work up to 100% push

That's how I do it on the Dake, using bimetal blades. Surprising how long they last if you do it correctly."

It works I have gotton alot of life from my bandsaw blades since adopting this, if you get a Morse blade it explains it on the box

Spencer
 
Go with a bimetal lennox or other good bimetal blade.they're the only way to go (imo).i had a similar experience as you with cheaper blades.once i upgraded it made a world of difference!

Spence,thanks for the tip,i'll have to try it out with my next blade!
 
Dump that blade and get a Morse Bimetal blade and do to what Sar said. He knows his shit.

Michael
 
Thanks to all for the tips! Yes, I will go into hock and buy a bi-metal blade.
 
Try out the slowest speed for the bandsaw. I run mine at 60 feet per minute and the bi-metal blades last a very long time.
 
I run my bandsaw at the slowest speed. Works pretty well on CPM154 and ATS-34, but D2 really eats them up. The A2 is pretty similar I suppose. Anyway, I'd slow it down.
-John
 
Like what everyone else said slowest speed and back off the down pressure, you will just ruin bandsaw blades getting in a hurry just let the saw do the work, more down pressure can be used on mild steel.
 
You work hardened the blade. Thats what we call it in a toolroom anyway. It happens occasionally. Back off as others have said, and slow it down. it never hurts to run some coolant or oil on stuff like this, although messy.

I have been drilling a hole before in a piece of D2, A2, S7, 01--A2 seems to be the worst, and get in a hurry.. you can work harden a hole too. I will be turning my drill just a little too fast and boom. shriek! usually when this happens you might be able to come from the other side if possible, but more than likely it will have hardened enough to make that not work either. When this happens to me I usually get a piece of carbide, and run through the hard spot untill I reach soft metal. then I put my drill back in and away I go.

As for a saw blade it all comes down to which is harder, blade or material. as for tool steel work and alloys, none is better than a bi-metal blade. when the piece work hardens on you like that the result is two hard surfaces basically rubbing and skating across each other. no cutting involved, lol. You can really mes up a blade if you persist after the work hardening, so be gentle.

I tend to get impatient with band saws too because they are so slow compared to other machines...especially with tool steels.

hope that helps man.
 
I have cut hundreds of blades out of A2 from 1/16" - 3/8" thick and unless you are getting the metal RED HOT from using a WOOD cutting bandsaw with metal cutting blade, it's unlikely you hardened it. If it's warm to the touch, then it can't be more than 100+ degrees which is even unlikely.

If you are using 18tpi at say 150 speed, you should be able to get more than 2-3 inches per minute. Personally I use a 10/14 tpi vari-tooth blade the it zips right through 1/8" thick stuff.

If you cut too slow, you'll be standing there all day long. 80-150 fpm is good. I like 150 over 80 fpm as I don't have time to stand there all day long either.

It sounds like you just used a cheap bandsaw blade. Not all blades are created equally! Save the headache of buying cheap blades and just buy lenox diemaster blades. They like most blades, are custom made and welded to the length you want.

What model grizzly do you have? In my opinion, it's not really the bandsaw that makes cutting easy. Well it is to a degree, but the speed and the bandsaw blade matter the most. I use 133" long blades in 1/4" and 3/8" widths from Lenox Blades and i have gotten atleast over 100 knife blanks cut and profiled from each bandsaw blade and more.

When you say you used a non bi-metal ....did you mean a wood cutting blade? i'm guessing not right?? not even sure they make 18tpi for wood :D

Get the right blade, the grizzly saws work great i'm sure. Don't buy a Mercedes and put 20 dollar tires on it :D Good luck!

The less money you spend now may cause you to actually have to spend more money on multiple blades as one lenox blade would have done.
 
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