Band Saw?

Joined
Jul 17, 2005
Messages
6
I'm Just Starting Out Making Knives & I Want To Know What Band Saw I Could Use That Isn't Too Expensive But WoULD Still Work Welli.e. Hp Enough To Handle Shaping Out The Blades And Handles?thanks,2worlds
 
You will probably find more help over in the makers area.

From what I have read though Harbor Freight seems to make decent larger machinery. Just make sure that you buy one rated for both steel and wood.

Also you don't really need a bandsaw to get started. Just a decent grinder and a hacksaw would do just fine. Heck even just a drill, hacksaw, and files will get you a knife with some effort.
 
I have a Delta 14" floor standing model that is more than enough to handle anything I throw at it. Whatever you get I'd stick with two wheel models over the three wheel ones. A small Delta table top model sold at Lowes should be fine for most uses but it won't cut steel as well once it gets above liner and lock thicknesses.

My 14" was over $750 with all the bells and whistles I got on it but for $99 and some change you can get a small 9" two wheel model that will do a lot of the small scale wood cutting for handles, brass, stainless or titanium rod and liner cutting jobs required in knifemaking. I have one of those also, the BS100 model and once you get into titanium above a .100 thickness it won't handle it that well at all but it seems to cut the .050 stuff just fine for the length of a folder or pocket clip.

It really has more to do with the blade you use and the teeth configuration but a lot of it is just that the motor doesn't have enough ummph to really do a whole lot of that like the big 1HP Baldor on my 14" will. The variable speed on my bigger saw helps also. I like having two because I can keep a metal cutting blade on my one and a wood cutting blade on the other but to be honest changing the blades is not that hard.

One thing I'll leave you a tip about. Clean out the saw dust before cutting a lot of titanium. Titanium sparks like hell when you cut it and I've started fires in the bottom of my 14" before from cutting ti. Just a heads up.

STR
 
STR

Since you didn't mention if you planned on cutting wood, metal or other material, I'm guessing you are looking for one that will do a little of everything.

For an all around cut anything saw the JET Horizontal/vertical is not a bad price. Usually sells for about $330 and is sold by so many places that there is probably one withing driving distance from your house. Here is a copy of a data clip on the saw:
Model JETHVBS56M
Horizontal/Vertical Bandsaw
1/2 hp, 1 phase, 115/230V motor.
3 blade speeds: 80, 120, 200 sfpm; blade size 1/2" x .025 x 64 1/2".
Vertical work table, rear wheels attached to stand, adjustable material stop.
Features ball bearing supported blade wheel, adjustable ball bearing guides, heat treated steel worm gear and bronze drive gear, automatic shut-off after cut, shelf built into stand.
PRICE $329.99

The biggest draw back to this saw is the narrow throat. When profiling blades from sheet, I many times have to cut one side of the blade then flip the sheet over to cut the other. But for the price it does ok.

If you are looking at wood/micarta/non-ferrous many of the smaller band saws will do if you aren't doing a large quantity of cuts or heavy material. The 14 in JET isn't too bad of a saw I just moved up from one two weeks ago. I have been told the newer ones are far supperior to the one I had that was 25 years old. I just purchased a Rykon 18" and I love it! It's only draw back is its 142" blade length. Not as common as most, but since I mail order most of my supplies this isn't much of a problem.

The more you forge the less you need the steel cutting capability.

Jim Arbuckle - Maker
 
Welcome to Bladeforums!

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Most any slow speed saw will work.The Jet mentioned above is a good saw.The important thing is to get Lenox bi-metal blades for cutting the steel.I use Woodmaster blades on wood and micarta.Both will outlast cheaper blades by many times.Forget the cheap HF blades,they are only good for things like brass,and not too good for that.
 
Ditto the blade comments on the HF>. I threw the one that came on it away and put a bimetal on it. I made a better stand for it and the saw is really nice for the money in my opinion. Watch for sales on them...
 
I completely agree on the bimetal blades. I made the mistake of trying to cut some ATS-34 bar stock with a regular blade, got two cuts across a 1.5" bar and that was the end of the blade! I get my bimetal blades from McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ They cost about $21 ea for the 64.5 inch blade.

For the larger wood working band saws, I suggest getting the carbide tipped blades. Cost an arm and a leg but last for decades if you stay away from nails and rocks!

J. A.
 
HF 4x6 is the "golden" standard amongst us frugal makers :)
It has plenty of power to cut through anything, bimetal
blades in right TPI are a must and it WILL cut plastic/wood
with satisfactory results, especially at typical knife-handle
sizes.

Do expect having to sand (hand or power) the cut edges to get
true surfaces after you cut with it - but this is the case with
most bandsaws anyway.

There were reports of people getting it for $139, with some
coupons piled on top of sale price. Avg going price seems
to be about $200.
 
I got my Harbor Freight about 3 years ago for less than $150, (free shipping too).....immediately took the blade off of it and put on one from Texas Knifemakers Supply that had been cryogenically treated.
Very Satisfied.
If it breaks, I'll just put it out on the street and get another one just like it.
(it DOES require a little 'screwing with' at first though: tighten up everything, etc.).
 
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