Bands Saws - what do I need?

A

AKY

Joined
Oct 29, 1998
Messages
114
I've decided I need a band saw to rough cut my blanks and shape handle material. Here are my questions:

1. What size hp?
2. Any brands you all like? For less than $200?
3. What kind of blades do I need? I'm using ATS-34, mostly.

Sears has a 1/3hp for $180 that takes 56 7/8th in. blades in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2in widths. However, they didn't have any blades that would cut alloy steel. Is there a supplier for these in this size?

Let me know what you know.

Much appreciated,
Tony
 
i would suppose that the sears bandsaws are wood cutting bandsaws.....that go about 3000 fpm......you need a metal cutting bandsaw.. that goes between 50 and 150 fpm.....they cost WAY more than the wood variety....you can slow a wood one down with pulleys but it wont have the juice to cut....metal cutting bandsaws are gear driven and wood ones are belt driven......you can get a small cuttoff style metal cutting bandsaw and put a table on it....but they are a pain...i tried that route....best to save up and get a good one. get a enco catalog and check it out....

[This message has been edited by tom mayo (edited 09 July 1999).]
 
Yes the one at sears is most likly to many SFM. They have a cut off that can be used as a veticle bandsaw in enco and other cats.
Here is a good place to get blades. You want bi metal blades. Fine teeth for the thickness of the stock most often used to cut out knife blades,
Saw systems
1800 966-1300

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Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
Take a look!!!




 
Check out the "bandsaw for contour shaping" thread a few months ago. I purchased a Grizzly metal bandsaw and have been very pleased with the results. I bought a new bi-metal blade which cuts much better than the one that came with the machine.

The bandsaw arrived in three days and the total was ~$200.00 w/shipping if you order off the web.

Check out http://www.grizzlyimports.com/ for details. The model# is G1010.

Hope this helps.

Steve
 
I too have the Grizzly G1010 metal cutting bandsaw, and recommend it. And Steve is right, the Bi-Metal blades cut better and last longer then the tool steel blades.

Garrett

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The Bitterness Of Poor Quality Remains Long After The Sweetness Of Low Price Is Forgotten


[This message has been edited by Garrett (edited 09 July 1999).]
 
I have one of those low power metal cutting bandsaws. They do the job ..sort of but I am going to have to beef up the blade guides and table.

I have gotten around the low power by going to a 24 TPI bimetal blade. It cuts just fine, a little slow but no chatter. I just wish I could find narrow (1/4 or 5/16) blades.

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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com



[This message has been edited by george tichbourne (edited 09 July 1999).]
 
I have a Delta in that price range that works very good with bi-metal blades. It will
cut horz. and vert. It has a platform that attaches when in the vert. and with a pad on
the machine a person can sit down and do the
cutting. The hole for the blade in most bandsaws is too big for small pieces and what
I do is take another piece of metal usually
Alum. and cut part way into it then clamp it to the base. works great to cut out my folder parts.

goshawk

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http://www.imt.net/~goshawk The race is not always to the swift, but he who hangs loose.


 
Make that another one that has the Grizzly saw. It is really all I need to cut out blanks. Bi-metal blades are the only way to go. You can also cut out your handle material as well but it is slow going on these saws.

CLWilkins
 
For cutting soft materials I have purchased a couple or 3 TPI wood cutting blades. These go through the toughest woods like butter. Their aggressive profile is a bit intimidating and extra care is warrented.

I had them made up at the local woodworking supply shop. They weld up any length blade you want.

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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
all this talk about bimetal blades has caused my finger to go to the post button unconsciously.....actually....got to tell you that the really good DOALL blades last about 10 times longer than any bi metal blades i ever bought...my metal cutting bandsaw takes 112 inch blades and they are expensive....about $35 each....but they last as long as 8 or 10 $8 blades....except when i cut cpm steels....i stopped using my bandsaw in these steels. i use an abrasive cuttoff wheel on 440v and 420v.....by the way, i also tried cutting ti for liner locks on my mcbandsaw and it broke the hard teeth off like crazy...so now i have 3 super dull ones handing on the wall and when i want to cut ti sheet i put one of the dull ones on and it whips right thru the stuff....just a tip....

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
Thanks a lot, guys! I went to Grizzly's web site to look at the G1010. I looks pretty cool, and at the price I want. This machine may be the way to go.

Much appreciated,
Tony
 
I have an inexpensive Sears scroll saw that I've used in the past to cut wood, but never metal. Would this be sufficient to cut a rough blade from metal bar stock as well, or is a band saw needed for that?

Thanks,

Ryan

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For the wages of sin is death; but the gift of God is eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord.

Romans 6:23


 
Ryan,

I have an old sears scroll saw but could never get it to cut through anything tougher than wood scales... and even then I broke more blades than it was worth. The scroll saw I imagine would cut through very thin (1/16?) brass but would never make it through a high carbon steel. The blades heat up too much.

Steve
 
My dad and I modified a 1/2 HP Sears wood-cutting bandsaw to take it down to metal cutting speeds. It was an enjoyable design and construction project, but only a moderate success. It works, but barely. Needed a lot of tension on the belts to avoid slipping, and the lack of a power feed can get painful after a while. I wouldn't really recommend this approach, though true metal-cutting saws are awfully expensive (but such a joy to work with!) I do as much profiling as possible on my sander and mainly use the saw to cut barstock. It also still runs at wood-cutting speeds and does all my handle-cutting work just fine.

If "Sharpsteel" reads this, I was unable to reply to your email about this saw. Try again, perhaps? I'm not trying to avoid answering, just keeps getting returned.

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-Drew Gleason
Little Bear Knives
 
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