Bandsaw blades

J

jefflynnjstar

Joined
Feb 12, 2024
Messages
24
I can’t remember where I bought my bandsaw blades for my Duall,,
116 inch. Bi metal. I think it 1/4 wide???
Who is a good supplier that is knowledgeable and will ship to Missouri????
 
Found old packaging list. Timberwolf,, blades from Suffolk Machinery,,, 2017. must have been my last time in my shop. Found it still in the trash. 800.234.7297,,, They were good company… fyi.
 
Jeff, No need for separate posts when quoting.
When using the quote feature:
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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Jeff, No need for separate posts when quoting.
When using the quote feature:
Click the + Quote tab on the post you wish to quote.
Go to the Write your reply box and click "Insert Quote".
The quote will post at the top of the reply box. You can edit it for length if there is only one part you wish to quote.
Type whatever comment you wish below the quote.
Hit Post Reply and they show in the same post.
Click to expand...
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Jeff, No need for separate posts when quoting.
When using the quote feature:
Click the + Quote tab on the post you wish to quote.
Go to the Write your reply box and click "Insert Quote".
The quote will post at the top of the reply box. You can edit it for length if there is only one part you wish to quote.
Type whatever comment you wish below the quote.
Hit Post Reply and they show in the same post.
Click to expand...
Testing… man I’m 62 and had a stroke…. Thanks for directing me. IS THIS CORRECT way to reply. ???
 
^Looks good to me!

What blade do you guys recommend for cutting 1084 and the like? I have a 111" Rikon. Thanks in advance!
 
The problem with using a Rikon 14" wood cutting bandsaw to cut metal is the speed. At the slow speed setting, it runs at 1445ft/min. Cutting steel requires somewhere between 70 and 200 ft/min. Most folks use a portaband on a mount of some sort (like a SWAG table) or have a metal cutting bandsaw like the HF 4X7.
You can rebuild some older types of wood cutting bandsaws to run slow enough. The old Craftsman saws with the motor hanging underneath work well converted to a 3-phase motor and VFD.
 
Plus one on the portaband and the SWAG:

2NkAh6D.jpg


NMjSske.jpg
 
Idaho Savage said:
^Looks good to me!

What blade do you guys recommend for cutting 1084 and the like? I have a 111" Rikon. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
I think the thickness of material that you are cutting will drive the correct teeth per inch (TPI) blade selection. I prefer 14 TPI but I cut thicker blades typically. More teeth per inch for thinner stuff....there is the idea that you want 3 (I think) teeth in contact ideally with the material while its cutting.
 
Thank you all. This forum is INCREDIBLY helpful for us newbs. I'll likely look into rigging a portaband setup.
 
Horsewright said:
Plus one on the portaband and the SWAG:

2NkAh6D.jpg


NMjSske.jpg
Click to expand...
Is there any reason NOT to use a Milwaukee variable speed version of the above? My powertool ecosystem is Milwaukee already, though I guess if it's not cordless, it doesn't matter. Do you know specifically which Dewalt you're using? Looks corded, no?
 
Another SWAG Offroad porta-band table fan. I much prefer an old school corded saw for these, as you can run them with a foot switch, which is incredibly handy. I put a mist cooler on mine as well, and it sure helps with blade life, and the lube helps keep aluminum from clogging up the teeth.
 
Idaho Savage said:
Is there any reason NOT to use a Milwaukee variable speed version of the above? My powertool ecosystem is Milwaukee already, though I guess if it's not cordless, it doesn't matter. Do you know specifically which Dewalt you're using? Looks corded, no?
Click to expand...
No, they make the SWAG table for multiple tools. Definitely the corded version although I don't use a foot switch. I zip tie the trigger and have it plugged into a power bar and that is then, the on and off switch for the tool. When I got a new saw a couple of years back had to dig around to find a corded one.
 
Plus-1 for the footswitch. It makes controlling the saw easier and safer.
I have two types of footswitches for tools. One is latching and you step once for ON and again for OFF. It is good for drill press/lathe/mill and similar tools where you turn it on and leave it running while you are using it. It allows walking away or moving around. On VFD grinders and tools, you may have to add a cord from the START switch to plug the pedal into.
The other is momentary, and I use it for tools like grinders and the portaband, where you want the tool to stop as soon as you remove your foot. This is very good for when you need both hands on the work while cutting and such.

TIP:
If you program your VFD for a ramp-up start you can start a grind easier. This really helps avoid problems when grinding the plunge. Your hands are ready and the belt is not moving yet when the grinder starts and slowly speeds up over the pre-set time. A few seconds ramp-up is all you need.

There are many lower cost options for a portaband saw other than an actual SWAG Off-Road brand table. The term SWAG is sort of generic now, like Kleenex and Xerox. I have noticed that SWAG Off-Road has reduced its prices ... probably due to overseas manufacturing and competition.

I found this really heavy duty mulit-fit base plate on eBay: Search- SWAG V1.0 Portaband Table, Fits, Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita, Harborfreigh.....
I bolted and welded on legs at the corners and then welded the legs to a base plate. It was easy to attach my Milwaulkee to it.
 
I do the same as Stacy. Momentary foot switch on both the bandsaw and belt grinder( with the VFD set for a 3 second start ramp ). I f something goes south, you will pretty much reflexively take your foot off the gas. Now that most folks have converted to battery powered tools, it's a good time to snatch up a used "antiquated" corded saw, for a stationary table.
 
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