Bandsaw for contour shaping

S

steveba

Joined
Jan 7, 1999
Messages
89
How many makers use a bandsaw for getting the intial profile on a knife? I am trying to justify purchasing one to cut down on belt wear/cost as well as time. Is it any faster on large blades of 3/16"+ stock? Is it easier to use for smaller curves that are difficult to grind without the smaller detail wheels? Are there other options besides the bandsaw? Try to keep the tradeoffs of cost/time in mind. Thanks in advance.
 
I use a bandsaw to profile most of my blades. I bought it from Harbor Freight, around $180, and orders over $50 are shipped free. You can eat up a lot of belts profiling blades. I cut pretty close to the line with mine and for small cuts for finger grooves I usually just cut out a "vee" and get the rest with a small wheel attachment on my grinder. I cut out and profiled 12 blades last saturday and I'm ready to grind now. I think if you figure out what it would cost to grind the profile versus a bandsaw, I think in the long run its cheaper with a bandsaw. As I said, I cut as close to the lines as possible and theres not a lot of heavy grinding to do to clean them up. Tom
 
I also use a band saw to rough cut as close to the outline as possible. It then takes just a few minutes to finish the profile with the belt grinder. It also will save on the number of belts used. I used a Harbor Freight type saw for years. Couple years ago, ran across a 14"Delta wood saw at an auction. Removed the motor (3phase)and found a used gear reduction motor, this set-up makes an excellent metal cutting bandsaw at a fraction of the cost of an upright type metal saw. I'm new to this forum thing, but find it very useful and helpful. thanks HLH
 
When I first started, I tried cutting out my blades (ATS & 440 Stainless) with a hacksaw & then a coping saw with a special blade for cutting hard metal. After I took all the teeth off of those in a couple of secs. I went upstairs & told my wife, to hell with this. (Not really in those words) then had to go & buy a small metal cutting band saw. They are a little slow because of the rpm but they really do work pretty good. I would recommend the Bi-Metal saw blades. They are a little more costly, but will out last the cheaper ones. You can use some cutting oil to lubricate the blade, but I find that as the blade & work gets hot, the oil runs away from the cut, so I use a little Parafin Wax on the blade now & then. I have cut steel as thick as 1/4" ATS, & you cant really cut around corners, but you can cut curves & then do what Tom said for the tighter grooves.....
 
Thanks for the information. There is a Harbor Freight dealer here in town so I'll check them out.

-steve
 
You're not going to believe it, but I saw it demonstrated at Johnny Stout's Hammer-in.
Johnny uses a wood cutting bandsaw and SPEEDS IT WAY UP. He uses old wood cutting blades to cut the steel and really says the teeth don't make much difference. It's an abrasive steel to steel cut. Sparks fly, so you need goggles and gloves, but it cut's probably ten times as fast as my little metal cutting band saw.

It literally falls through the ATS 34 3/16 that we used to test it. Haven't had a chance to bring it into my shop but next chance I have to buy an old wood bandsaw I'm going to do so. It was an eye-opening experience and I wouldn't have believed it either if I hadn't tried it myself.

Johnny is a nice guy and will answer any questions you might have, I'm sure.

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Ben R. Ogletree, Jr.
 
I went ahead and ordered the Grizzly model -$179 + $40 for shipping. I have heard bad things from woodworkers about the Harbor machines. Don't know what that means but the Grizzly was only $10 more expensive. I have also used a chop saw but it is pretty scary on some of the smaller cuts.

I'll let you know how the Grizzly works out and thanks again for the info.

Steve
 
It's amazing, every time I have a dilemma I go to Blades Forum and someone is talking about it.
Militano, the saw you got from Harbor freight must be a bench top,yes? I've looked around at other places but haven't checked out Harbor yet. Thanks for the direction.
Mayor, the trick you talk about that Stout did blows my mind. I've done a fare amount of metal work (as an aircraft mech. fairly new to blade smithing) and using a wood blade to cut metal rubs me all the wrong ways. I'd like to get some more info on this. Does Stout have a web site?
Thanks to all, Dave

[This message has been edited by David Gladden (edited 10 April 1999).]
 
The saw I got from Harbor Freight is not a bench top. It can be used in the horizontal or vertical position. It has cut everything I used it on with no trouble. I use bimetal blades on it, in the long run I feel that I come out ahead with them. I tried my wood cutting band saw and after I removed all the teeth from a new blade I decided that I needed a new saw.
Tom
 
I ordered the aw from Harbor Freight on 3/19
but it is backordered, last date they gave me was it might ship on 4/30. So if you want one at the sale price you better order it now. The price is $139.99 with free shipping. They did charge me $3.95 for handling but $143.94 total for a saw heck if it runs at all it is worth that.
smile.gif


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-Greg Johnson
ICQ#4236341

 
I wrote to Johnny Stout and he was kind enough to share this information:

"Tom, good to hear from you. You can cut metal by the friction cutting method
using almost any saw that will run at 3000 fpm. The good thing about it is
that you can cut using your old worn out blades that will no longer cut on
slow speed. On fast speed, the blade actually melts through the steel, so
sharpness doesn't play a huge part. I even use my worn out 6 tooth wood
blades. They are thinner and will cut better than the metal blades, less
resistance.

If your saw will cut that fast, try it and let me know what you think.

Good luck."

Johnny also sent this:

"Tom, I hope I was some help. Just a word of caution when friction cutting. Be sure
and use eye protection and as much safety gear as possible. I've never had a blade
break but it could, and sure cause some damage.

Go ahead and pass along the information to the Forum if you'd like, just be sure to
include the safety information.

Keep in touch."

Maybe someone with a fast enough bandsaw can try it and report to the forum, I'd sure be interested.

As usual, proceed at your own risk...

ps. Thanks Johnny!
 
Wouldn't cutting steel with the "high speed" method (which is really cutting with heat)harm some of the metal near the cut, in the same way that cutting with a torch does? If this is so, cutting stainless with this method might reduce the quality/integrity of the finished blade. The only way around this would be to grind away the material near the cut, and then we're back eating up belts. Any metallugists out there?
 
Has anyone used one of the new benchtop varible speed bandsaws from Sears? I have been looking at them, they are not very heavy duty as most benchtops aren't, but the speed is varible from 300 fpm to 3000 fpm. The have an eleven inch throat and will accept blades up to 3/8 wide. It is a three wheel machine, which makes it more stable but harder to change blades. They have a dc motor and should supply constant speed even under a load. They retail out of Sears for about $220 , but I have seen them listed with wholesalers for as little as $100, for that kind of money they would probably be worth a try.
Mike C

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mconner@luminatorusa.com
Killing the dog wont cure the bite.

 
Drop Point, I have one of those saws for roughing out handle materials and such, I dont use it much since I got the metal cutting bandsaw...

I will try the friction cut and let you know...
smile.gif


Alan Folts...
 
I have used a Porta-band for a couple of years now. I plan on getting a metal cutting chop off saw and leave it in the vertical position for profiling blades. These are in the $175 to $250 price range. A far cry less expensive than a metal cutting bandsaw and in my opinion, all I will need for making knives.

CLWilkins
 
About a week now with the Grizzly. It really does have its place in the shop. It takes a little getting use to the feed rate and what works best but I find it very useful. I first tried using WD40 as a coolant but then switched to BCK's suggestion and used the wax. It works great and leaves less mess.

I am really impressed by Grizzly as the machines are very solid and the shipping only takes three or so days from when I order. Can't beat the deal at ~$200.00. The bandsaw has now replaced my scroll saw as the handle profiler for the harder composite materials. I would go through at least one blade per scale with the scroll saw... very frustrating.

Steve
 
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