Bandsaw Questions

amcardon

amcardon

Joined
Jun 29, 2009
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Hey guys, my cousin just gave me a bandsaw (one of his extras) and I was hoping somebody here might be able to help me set it up. It is a Hitachi CB6Y 10" bandsaw that takes 63.5" blades (odd size, I know). Anyway, I was wondering if anybody can either point me in the right direction for blades (never purchased bandsaw blades before) or tell me what to look for in different blades whether it's for wood or steel, TPI, 1/4" vs 3/8", etc...

I've wanted to get a bandsaw for a while, it just wasn't in the cards at the time. I was quite surprised when he gave this one to me and I feel kind of awkward because typically before I buy something I research the crap out of it and know it in an out before ever even touching it. This is a whole new ball of wax for me and any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
Well based on the speed specs....
* Motor delivers 1,725 rpm and 3,600 fpm for plenty of power .

That bandsaw is for wood. You can get custom size blades from suffolk machinery..... Just call and tell them what size you want and they will take care of it. They sell a timberwolf blade that I really like for the price, and my blade size is 111" so for mine they run about 17 to 18 bucks each in half inch width. Good luck Larry

Edited to add the link for Suffolk ---->

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/special_blade_offer_Bandsaws.asp

The timberwolf blades are swedish silicon steel which requires less tension, and right now they have a promo for buy 3 get one free. They are very nice folks who can send you the exact size you need for your machine, which doesnt and shouldn't cost any extra.
 
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Well the thing you have to remember is more teeth per inch (tpi) is for cutting harder material, 18-24 tpi should work for most metals. Less tpi, obviously for softer materials. Usually the less tpi the wider the blade profile. Narrower profile reduces friction (heat). I don't recommend trying to do scroll work on a band saw, buy a scroll saw.


-xander
 
The saw you have is for wood. Don't try and cut metal on it....it isn't made to do that.

The blade size is not a problem. Get whatever size you desire from most blade suppliers. Don't worry about the common sizes listed in a chart, as most suppliers make them to (BTW, many saws have quite a bit of adjustment in the wheels. If you come across a 64.5" blade , you probably can run it on your 63.5" saw. I wouldn't get the wrong size deliberately, but if one pops up at a yard sale, try it out.)


I recommend Cyberwoodworking ( toolcenter.com) for blades.
http://www.toolcenter.com/BANDSAW_BLADES.html

Get a carbide wood blade ( woodmaster CT) and take care in cutting....it will last many years.
For your metal saw ( when you get one) use a Diemaster2 blade bi-metal blade.

Again, they make the blades to order in the size you specify, so make sure of the correct size before ordering.
 
Thanks for the replies and recommendations! Will this work for cutting G11, micarta, etc? I understand this is definitely a wood bandsaw - but lets say hypothetically somebody bought a bi-metal blade and took it slow... Would it be possible to cut metal or would that be a full out no-no? Definitely want to get the most out of it but don't want to do anything stupid at the same time.

I'm looking at both toolcenter and suffolk; if I were to buy 3 or 4 blades is there a tpi or width that would be good all-around blades or would I be better off buying different tpi/steel/width and changing out the blade depending on what I'm cutting? If all I should be doing on here is wood then that's where I'll keep it but even with wood I might be cutting iron wood and then some spalted maple burl...
 
This saw will not work for metal. It runs way too fast regardless of what type of blade it has in it. It will build up too much heat almost instantly and ruin your blade before it even gets started cutting into steel.

You might get by cutting micarta or g-10 with a bi-metal blade but maybe not. A blade made for wood cutting will be destroyed in short order trying to cut g-10.

I use my metal cutting bandsaw for g-10 and micarta.
 
Thanks John, that's good to know. I guess she will only be fed wood, kydex, acrylic, etc... I'll order some blades tomorrow - I'm excited to have a bandsaw finally!
 
If you can add a different pulley system you should be able to cut metal with it. My dad turned the motor around on his and added two pulleys on the side (smaller) and I cut D-2 on it with little problem. Though it is a slow process because the blade has been slowed down quite a bit, it sure saves us from having to buy a metal bandsaw. If you know anyone who is decent at fabrication or milling they should be able to help you out or point you to someone who can. All you need is two pulleys, a shaft with bearings, and new belts; but it can be a mountain of hassle if you don't know what to do. Good Luck!
 
I don't know what kind of knives you make , but you can cut Titanium and even thin steel at those speeds.
Everyone always says you can't though.

At high speeds, you friction cut.
Basically you burn right through the material.

It really the ONLY way I cut Titanium.

A pretty fine toothed blade, put on upside down (teeth pointing up) will go through up to 3/16" Ti like butter.

Blades last pretty long too.

Steel wears them out quicker than Ti, and I have never tried the upside down trick on steel. I use my portaband on blades.

This does not work for Carbon Fiber, G10, etc... but a tile saw make short work of those...
 
Wandering Thinker said:
If you can add a different pulley system you should be able to cut metal with it. My dad turned the motor around on his and added two pulleys on the side (smaller) and I cut D-2 on it with little problem. Though it is a slow process because the blade has been slowed down quite a bit, it sure saves us from having to buy a metal bandsaw. If you know anyone who is decent at fabrication or milling they should be able to help you out or point you to someone who can. All you need is two pulleys, a shaft with bearings, and new belts; but it can be a mountain of hassle if you don't know what to do. Good Luck!
Click to expand...


I looked at doing this. It really isn't worth the trouble, especially if you need the wood saw too. the rubber pulleys will not stand up with chips. You have to special order your blades. Plus the sheaves and pulleys are going to cost you around 100.00 this does not including the machine cost and shafts and bearings. Just spend the money on Harbor Freight band saw they sell for less than 200.00. You will love having both saws. With the HF saw you can walk in most hardware stores and get a 64 1/2 metal cutting saw blade.

G10 is rough on a wood saw blade, it will kill a blade. So I use a metal cutting saw. Everything else, handle wise I cut on a wood saw.
 
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BlackToe Knives said:
I looked at doing this. It really isn't worth the trouble, especially if you need the wood saw too. the rubber pulleys will not stand up with chips. You have to special order your blades. Plus the sheaves and pulleys are going to cost you around 100.00 this does not including the machine cost and shafts and bearings. Just spend the money on Harbor Freight band saw they sell for less than 200.00. You will love having both saws. With the HF saw you can walk in most hardware stores and get a 64 1/2 metal cutting saw blade.

G10 is rough on a wood saw blade, it will kill a blade. So I use a metal cutting saw. Everything else, handle wise I cut on a wood saw.
Click to expand...

Ah, we didn't seem to have the problem with the different blades, not to sure what that is but I can see how a HF one would be better now. My dad had metal pulleys from all his years working in machine shops and tool and die stuff so I guess that's what helped him afford it. How long does the HF last? I've seen some of their tools last great and some of them break the first time you use them.
 
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