Bandsaw troubles...

Gong

Gong

Joined
Jul 2, 2003
Messages
674
I have THIS bandsaw. It has worked well for me for a few months now. But the other night I started cutting out a blade from 1/8" 1095 stock. I cut out about half the tang of a balisong blade before I pushed too hard and the blade came off the tracks insde.

No big deal, not the first time I've done that I thought. But now everytime I apply even the slightest pressure to the bandsaw's blade it pops off the tracks. Everything looks alright to me, not that I ever really examined the mechanical parts in their working condiiton. I've played with different blade tensions, but that doens't make a difference.

Anyone ever have a similar problem and how did you fix it?

Thanks,
Ken
 
I used to have this saw. It's not a bad tool at all.
It sounds like the blade is too loose. I noticed that when cutting steel, you need a few things: One is a good-quality bi-metal blade. The other thing I remember was having to really crank up the tension. (It may be time for a new blade as well.). When you remove the blade, you may want to run the tensioner up and down through the applicable range to be sure there isn't something going on with the threads. A little grunge/metal contamination can make it very difficult to turn and seem like it's tight when it really isn't. Just a few thoughts... good luck.
 
I had the exact problem with a regular wood cutting bandsaw. It was a Black and Decker, common but not the greatest of brands. It worked well for afew years, but then it would not track a darn, not even with a new blade. So after I removed the new blade, I threw the machine outside onto the junk pile where it rusts to this day.

Now I do all my cutting including wood on my metal cutting bandsaw. It's a bit awkward to negotiate tight turns with a half inch wide blade but its enough to get me by until I find a new wood cutter. I don't make as many knives as I used to anyway.
 
There is a allen screw recessed in the tensioner carriage up top that kicks the top wheel in or out. Adjusting that did the trick on mine. It didn't take much either. Thats the only problem I've had with the saw in 20 yrs. (Harbor Freight also)
 
This BS is a workhorse. The Golden Standard by which all others are measures.
For $160, on a good day, this is the absolute best value you can have.

Now.

- the blade must be tensioned to the highest tension you can apply with yer hands. Use a rag on that knob, if you can not get a good grip.

- the bottom wheel has a set screw the locks it on the shaft. Loosen it
and adjust the bottom wheel to track nicely. Top wheel , too, has an adjustment bolt.

When max width of the blade rests on both wheels, it is time to adjust the blade guides. Adjust the bearings in the back till it is just a hair away from the back of the bearings.

When cutting in upright position, lift the bottom guide all the way and lower the upper one all the way, so that blade flexes the least, being supported by the bearings.

You will never ever have a problem if you properly adjust yer BS. Most BS will require similar adjustment to perform best.
 
If you have been lubricating the blade at all, Don't. It won't stay on the wheels if you do. I tried it once and couldn't cut 1" without it popping off. I cleaned up all the blade and wheel surfaces and it works now like a charm. The bi-metal blades are a must also.
 
What RUJOCO said. You have to read and understand the instructions. If you don't have them, download them from HF's site. It's not just you, most of these machines need adjusting as they come from the factory, but they seem to hold that adjustment once done, so that's the good news.

The machine has to be running and you have to adjust the tilt of the top of the top wheel back with an allen wrench in the adjusting bolt on the back top of the machine, all the while loosening the tension a little with the top blade tensioning hand wheel that you're putting on the blade by tilting the wheel with the allen wrench, so you don't snap it.
You might have to do that a few times to get it right. The rear of the blade should rub against the lip on the back of the top wheel when adjusted right. There's a little more to it, but not much, but that's what the instructions are for.;)

Watch where you put your hands and other parts of yourself at all times while doing this. I found it easier to stand behind and a little to the motor side of the machine while making these adjustments. You'll have to have the door open so you can see the blade to wheel contact.

But if you're careful and take care while adjusting, you should have no more troubles. I lube my blade all the time when cutting steel. I spray it with WD40 where it is touching the steel but it goes all over, quickly. If it's adjusted right, it won't make any difference.

Good luck to you.

Some helpful sites.
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm

http://www.tinyisland.com/4x6bsFAQ.html

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/4x6bandsaw/

http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/projects/sawstand/sawstand.html
 
I also spray the bejesus out of my blade while cutting without any problems.

Reading the instructions is the right thing to do or I would never have known that little allen screw was there. Moving the bearing guide down to your work also helps on some cuts,usually cutting wood, although the blade still wanders some. The wood blades are thinner than the metal blades I have. If you tweak the machine right it should behave for years like mine has. $139 was a lot of dough back then but I don't regret it now.
 
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