- Joined
- Aug 16, 2013
- Messages
- 114
I recently got myself a Cold Steel Stag Handle Trail Master and I wanted a utility knife to go along with it.
The knife had to have a carbon steel blade and a (imitation) stag handle.
After some searching I dedided on the Bark River Aurora LT. I never owned or used a Bark River knife before so it was a jump in the dark.
First of all, the specs:
Specifications:
Overall Length: 9.5 Inches
Blade Length: 4.775 Inches
Blade Steel: A2 Tool Steel @58-59HRC
Blade Thickness: .150 Inch
Weight: 5.5 Ounces
Made in USA
High-quality leather sheath
This was the picture of the knife seller:
Antique stag one is not genuine stag. It is dyed cow bone. I read this is used because of the import ban of Sambar Stag. Which is the most commonly used stag handle material.
The handle didn't look as good in reality as the one in the picture, but this is taste.
I never used a knife with a convex grind before so this was also a jump in the dark. The knife came sharp but not shaving sharp. I am used to hand sharpening on a stone first and stropping after. Now I had to get my sharpness from stropping only. It took a little bit of practice but it worked. The knife saw some medium as a utility, kitchen, bushcraft knife during a few days, every evening I to spend restropping the edge for about 30 minutes. I don't know if this is due to my inexperience with stropping convex blades or the knife steel( I presume it is the first). I didn't want to do that every evening so I took my soft Arkansas stone and added a (secondary) edge. Now, in my hands, the edge holds a lot better.
I know this will be regarded as heresy, grin.
All the tests were done with the convex edge.
I will let the pictures of my test do most of the talking.
First kitchen use, vegetables:
Different kinds of onion and garlic were cut fine easily. The knife cuts through without splitting the vegetables. I couldn't cut the garlic as fine as with a chef or paring knife, but this was to be expected.
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Carrots were cut easily and fine.
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Bell Peppers just as easy.
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I was able to cut cherry tomatoes very fine.
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Cutting meat:
Dried dry saucage, fresh dry saucage and bacon were easy to cut:
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It isn't a dedicated kitchen knife but it performs extremely well in this role.
Wood carving and bushcraft use:
I used to knife for splitting and carving very fine feathersticks of a dried pine branch. I tried the back of the knife to spark the ferro rod. It would have worked but it doesn't throw a shower of sparks, I wouldn't mind had the edges of the back been sharper. I ignited the finest featherstick with the ferro rod and striker.
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The back of the knife was used to make fine shavings of a piece of fatwood. Again I wouldn't mind had the edges of the back been sharper.
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I carved a try stick out of a fresh hazel branch. It was my first try stick ever so it's far from perfect. The knife handled and carved extremely well. It was a pleasure to use.
I carved the try stick over two days. Off course the carving was easier when the wood was wet and fresh; and harder when the wood was a bit dryer.
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The point of the knife is quite thin and when carving a piece of seasoned oak I broke the tip of the point. I cannot say if this was due to my inexperience or the grind of the knife.
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I reground the point on diamond stones. I won't break the tip anymore.
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The knife excels at bushcraft use and carving. The point might be to fragile.
I didn't do a chopping test because the knife is not made for that. Normally I'll carry it together with my Stag Master or else I'll make sure I have a saw.
Fit and Finish:
I put the pictures of the fit and finish last. This because I took the pictures after I regound the point. Also because I like using a knife more than I like looking at it.
Maybe it is hard to see, but A2 steel gets a very nice patina with use.
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About the scales. The scales are made from a irregular natural material. So perhaps the flaws are to be expected.
One scale is thicker than the other scale. This doesn't affects handling. Perhaps due to this the handle melts in the hand.
Both scales are not fitted as high, there are some glue marks left and one scale has a chip at the back.
Scale thickness:
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Scale fitting and chip:
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Glue marks:
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The sheath is great. The leather is perfect thickness and stitched evenly. it is sturdy and holds the knife well. I wouldn't want another one.
The ferro rod loop is quite thight so it would hold a ferro rod very well. I prefer not to carry my ferro rod on my knife so I won't use it.
I put a keyring on the belt loop to carry the knife on a Maxpedition Keyper. I don't have it yet so for the moment I carry it on a carabiner on my belt. I do this because I don't like to take of my belt to remove my knife. It carries very comfortable this way.
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Conclusion.
The handle scales don't look as nice as I hoped them to be but overall I am pleased with this knife. It is a very good user and I will use it a lot.
I don't know what to think about the finish flaws. I think Bark River knives are quite costly (I know this is relative) but I also know they are handmade so I can't expect machine perfection. I'll let you base your opinion on the pictures.
I know I could have sent back the knife to the seller and get a new one. But shipping back and forth between Europe and the US is costly and since the knife was going to be user I decided not to bother.
The knife had to have a carbon steel blade and a (imitation) stag handle.
After some searching I dedided on the Bark River Aurora LT. I never owned or used a Bark River knife before so it was a jump in the dark.
First of all, the specs:
Specifications:
Overall Length: 9.5 Inches
Blade Length: 4.775 Inches
Blade Steel: A2 Tool Steel @58-59HRC
Blade Thickness: .150 Inch
Weight: 5.5 Ounces
Made in USA
High-quality leather sheath
This was the picture of the knife seller:
Antique stag one is not genuine stag. It is dyed cow bone. I read this is used because of the import ban of Sambar Stag. Which is the most commonly used stag handle material.
The handle didn't look as good in reality as the one in the picture, but this is taste.
I never used a knife with a convex grind before so this was also a jump in the dark. The knife came sharp but not shaving sharp. I am used to hand sharpening on a stone first and stropping after. Now I had to get my sharpness from stropping only. It took a little bit of practice but it worked. The knife saw some medium as a utility, kitchen, bushcraft knife during a few days, every evening I to spend restropping the edge for about 30 minutes. I don't know if this is due to my inexperience with stropping convex blades or the knife steel( I presume it is the first). I didn't want to do that every evening so I took my soft Arkansas stone and added a (secondary) edge. Now, in my hands, the edge holds a lot better.
I know this will be regarded as heresy, grin.
All the tests were done with the convex edge.
I will let the pictures of my test do most of the talking.
First kitchen use, vegetables:
Different kinds of onion and garlic were cut fine easily. The knife cuts through without splitting the vegetables. I couldn't cut the garlic as fine as with a chef or paring knife, but this was to be expected.
Carrots were cut easily and fine.
Bell Peppers just as easy.
I was able to cut cherry tomatoes very fine.
Cutting meat:
Dried dry saucage, fresh dry saucage and bacon were easy to cut:
It isn't a dedicated kitchen knife but it performs extremely well in this role.
Wood carving and bushcraft use:
I used to knife for splitting and carving very fine feathersticks of a dried pine branch. I tried the back of the knife to spark the ferro rod. It would have worked but it doesn't throw a shower of sparks, I wouldn't mind had the edges of the back been sharper. I ignited the finest featherstick with the ferro rod and striker.
The back of the knife was used to make fine shavings of a piece of fatwood. Again I wouldn't mind had the edges of the back been sharper.
I carved a try stick out of a fresh hazel branch. It was my first try stick ever so it's far from perfect. The knife handled and carved extremely well. It was a pleasure to use.
I carved the try stick over two days. Off course the carving was easier when the wood was wet and fresh; and harder when the wood was a bit dryer.
The point of the knife is quite thin and when carving a piece of seasoned oak I broke the tip of the point. I cannot say if this was due to my inexperience or the grind of the knife.
I reground the point on diamond stones. I won't break the tip anymore.
The knife excels at bushcraft use and carving. The point might be to fragile.
I didn't do a chopping test because the knife is not made for that. Normally I'll carry it together with my Stag Master or else I'll make sure I have a saw.
Fit and Finish:
I put the pictures of the fit and finish last. This because I took the pictures after I regound the point. Also because I like using a knife more than I like looking at it.
Maybe it is hard to see, but A2 steel gets a very nice patina with use.
About the scales. The scales are made from a irregular natural material. So perhaps the flaws are to be expected.
One scale is thicker than the other scale. This doesn't affects handling. Perhaps due to this the handle melts in the hand.
Both scales are not fitted as high, there are some glue marks left and one scale has a chip at the back.
Scale thickness:
Scale fitting and chip:
Glue marks:
The sheath is great. The leather is perfect thickness and stitched evenly. it is sturdy and holds the knife well. I wouldn't want another one.
The ferro rod loop is quite thight so it would hold a ferro rod very well. I prefer not to carry my ferro rod on my knife so I won't use it.
I put a keyring on the belt loop to carry the knife on a Maxpedition Keyper. I don't have it yet so for the moment I carry it on a carabiner on my belt. I do this because I don't like to take of my belt to remove my knife. It carries very comfortable this way.
Conclusion.
The handle scales don't look as nice as I hoped them to be but overall I am pleased with this knife. It is a very good user and I will use it a lot.
I don't know what to think about the finish flaws. I think Bark River knives are quite costly (I know this is relative) but I also know they are handmade so I can't expect machine perfection. I'll let you base your opinion on the pictures.
I know I could have sent back the knife to the seller and get a new one. But shipping back and forth between Europe and the US is costly and since the knife was going to be user I decided not to bother.
Last edited:
. Take care.
