Bark River blade steel

N

newbie_nick

Joined
Dec 2, 2008
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I have been looking for a new knife for camping/hunting, and I've read quite a few good comments about the Bark River Bravo-1. My only remaining concern with this knife is the A2 blade steel that it uses because according to a few sources, this steel uses around 5% chromium which is below the 13% threshold to call it "stainless". Can anybody speak to the rust resistance of this steel? I'm pretty good about keeping my gear in good shape, but I don't want it to rust while I'm in the field either. Any thoughts?

Part II to the same question... What oil do you guys use on your non-stainless knives? I use Rig Universal on my guns to keep them protected, and I was thinking about using it on my knives as well. Thoughts?

Thanks!
Nick
 
Welcome to Bladeforums!

I don't have a Bravo-1 but I do have the very similar Gameskeeper that the Bravo-1 was developed from, same size and materials. I've used it in the kitchn for fun, it's a bit thick for a kitchen knife, and have no problem with rust. I also take care of my knives. However, it will patina, which is a protective corrosion. :)

I use food-grade mineral oil on my non-stainless knives.
 
Although I haven't used my Bravo-1 extensively yet, I have had it with me on hikes near and on the beach and haven't noticed any rust. I do clean it though, after every outing and wipe it down with mineral oil like Esav, in case I want to prep food with it one day. :)

edit: one more thing, I think there is a more expensive SS version of the Bravo-1 (CPM-154, IIRC). I don't know much about it, but you could look into that as well.
 
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aloha, i live in hawaii an with the salt air an hunt almost every week with the blood an fluids on the blade i have no problem with my A2 barkies jus take the time to wipe it down,my opinion the bravo is a awsome blade but for hunting an camp stuff try the gameskeeper II it never leaves my side when in the field,,,aloha
 
The BRKT Bravo-1 just came out in a stainless steel version - CPM's version of 154.

Here is KSF's bunch all ready for your perusal and purchase! :D
 
Just wipe it down with mineral oil or something like that after using it and you'll be fine. A2 is not what I consider prone to rusting unless you do something like store it wet in its sheath.

Iirc the stainless bravos might be a one-time thing depending on how they sell. If you think you might get one in the future the best thing would be to get one now instead of waiting just in case no more get made after this run. This is early enough that plenty of handle choices are still available and if you can't find the one you want you can probably still order one through your favorite barkie dealer.
 
AfterTFD said:
Just wipe it down with mineral oil or something like that after using it and you'll be fine. A2 is not what I consider prone to rusting unless you do something like store it wet in its sheath.
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Or store it in a leather sheath at all. That's what I did with my BRKT Rogue for a couple of weeks and it got rust patches on it in various places. Nothing a little scotchbrite couldn't cure but still.... watch out. :thumbup:
 
A2 is a little more rust-resistant than say, 1095, Carbon V, 52100, which will rust if you look at them funny, but it will rust or get pits if you leave it wet. Just wipe it dry after use or use something like BreakFree or other rust preventives if you really worry about it. It is a very tough steel, and holds a great edge, judging from my BR Woodland.
 
A2 is a tool steel and prone to rusting more than a stainless. It has very good egde holding ability and is easier to sharpen than a stainless. With any tool steel the knife shouldn't be stored in the sheath for any length of time. The oils and chemicals used to tan the leather will cause the steel to discolor (stain). Cutting meat, fruit such as apples will also discolor (stain) the blade. If you want to protect your knife during storage use Rust-Free a silicone based oil carried by A.G. Russell. If you have ever received an A.G. Russell catalog you'll know that A2 is one of his favorite steels and Rust-Free is what he recommends. I use it on all of my tool steel knives and it holds up exceptionally well.
 
Bark River knives are very well made, and very nice looking.

The A-2 steel isn't bad, but there are far better steels in the same price range.

I really like my Bark River Northstar, but for just a few dollars more, you can have a Bob Dozier made from D-2, which IMHO is far superior to A-2. :thumbup:

www.dozierknives.com
 
Here's my accidental testing/abuse of Bark River A2 steel water resistance:

Last summer I had my Bark River Northstar along on a multi-day, motorcycle camping trip. On my return ride home, I rode across Pennsylvania in constant frog-strangling rain. The Northstar was stored in a small, non-waterproof pannier on the side of the bike and got soaked. Then, idiot that I am, I left the bike sitting in the garage for several days before unpacking it. The Northstar sat marinating in it's soaking wet sheath for that time.

When I finally got to it, it had some light surface rust on the spine and an a few spots on the side. That was it, and it scrubbed right off in a couple of minutes with some #000 steel wool. It isn't stainless, but it is pretty close.
 
A-2 is NOT stainless steel.
CPM154 is stainless and is one of the best knife steels !!
RIG is no longer made !
 
Grandpa, Thanks for the tip. I was going to by a Bravo but I will sure wait and pick up the 154 version, One of my favorite blade steels.
 
It's a Rip off but probably worth it if you really worry about rust. I think it adds to the Bravo's ability to be one of the best all around knives.
 
Kim Lau said:
What I dont get is why the SS version is $90 more than the A-2 version...:confused:
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1) Way higher cost for the CPM steel. CPM is NOT cheap. A2 is pretty inexpensive.
2) More time consuming and more difficult to machine.
3) 154 Heat treat takes a higher temp and spends more time at that higher temp than A2. (read more energy to heat so it costs more to do. It also ties up the furnace for that much longer, which also adds to the cost)


So, there are valid reasons for it to cost significantly more.
 
As to cost--as knarfeng said, there are many factors. We had the SS ones made special for us. The cost for taking the blade from a plate of steel to being ready to put the handles on and grind it was more than double the cost for A2.

Honestly, I was shocked at how much more it cost. I was also surprised it was not more money at retail.

Early reports on this knife are excellent. It does not chip. It holds an edge better than A2 and it is easy to maintain. It is a great knife. Not for everyone, but if you want a stainless version, it doesn't get much better.
 
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