Bark-River Bravo 1 problem

Joined
Dec 12, 2014
Messages
4
I have bravo 1 in A2 steel. It can rust so no good for long time (many years) in woods in Northern Ontario, Canada.
Looking at s35vn (s3 not good)
It is powder metal Steel, and it is a problem.
Powder metal is made by compressing old-steel powder, at high temperature. It consist of powder grains welded together and air in between grains.
Cutting some poisonous stuff will let poison to get inside the steel, between powder grains and it is there and after washing. Use the knife to eat and one is dead from poisson.

Ps. Powder metal bushing are soaked in oil over night and are used as no additional lubricant journal bearings. Oil from inside the steel leaks out as a lubricant. Another fact: company that makes powder metal parts has more than half floor area with containers for scraps. It is not reliable on strength, even if pass strength control. You never know when it will break. Tables with strength are fine burst not so reliable and strength dissipation is great ( I used to be eng. in powder-metal manufacturing company, Canada)

Soooo, is s35vn any good knife material????
What I am missing
 
Your understanding of particle metallurgy is flawed.

As a mechanical engineer and a structural designer, I must say your options cast some doubt on the validity of your statement.



Big Mike
 
Last edited:
I think OP is confusing sintered metal versus powder steel. You get air gaps in some sintered metal such as bronze bushing. However you do not get air gaps within powder steel. From the looks of it I think there is a language/translation issue here.
 
I have bravo 1 in A2 steel. It can rust so no good for long time (many years) in woods in Northern Ontario, Canada.
Looking at s35vn (s3 not good)
It is powder metal Steel, and it is a problem.
Powder metal is made by compressing old-steel powder, at high temperature. It consist of powder grains welded together and air in between grains.
Cutting some poisonous stuff will let poison to get inside the steel, between powder grains and it is there and after washing. Use the knife to eat and one is dead from poisson.

Ps. Powder metal bushing are soaked in oil over night and are used as no additional lubricant journal bearings. Oil from inside the steel leaks out as a lubricant. Another fact: company that makes powder metal parts has more than half floor area with containers for scraps. It is not reliable on strength, even if pass strength control. You never know when it will break. Tables with strength are fine burst not so reliable and strength dissipation is great ( I used to be eng. in powder-metal manufacturing company, Canada)

Soooo, is s35vn any good knife material????
What I am missing

Where to begin.... This is all I can say on the matter:
The bottom of your car is made of a steel that rusts pretty quickly too, there are tons of vehicles available in Northern Ontario I'd guess. Also, maintaining and caring for your tools should be a normal and natural part of your routine if you have experience cutting stuff. The people that I have met that are very proficient make things work, regardless of what they are. There is no doubt, just adapting to whatever comes up and always pick the right tool for the job.
I'm agreeing with Mike, you might not be understanding how steel, poison, maintenance, and other aspects truly work.
 
To sort of piggyback off of Rev, (and to try to sound smart since I do not know metal the way an engineer does)

When you say many years in the woods, are you talking about living in that sort of environment continuously, during which time NO maintenance whatsoever will be applied to the knife?

No knife will survive such a thing, for years on end.
 
I have bravo 1 in A2 steel. It can rust so no good for long time (many years) in woods in Northern Ontario, Canada.

What I am missing

Any piece of equipment needs to be maintained. A little mineral oil, veg oil, machine oil, paste wax or chapstick will make an A2 Bravo last longer than you will.

As far as the second part of what I've quoted - my only answer is : a bunch.

Powdered metal steels (when done correctly) are extremely strong and I would trust my life to an S35VN Bravo I. But if I had to choose between them, I'd go with the A2 and just make the effort to maintain it.
 
Most of post is gibberish, so skipping that....

Soooo, is s35vn any good knife material????

Yes. I used an S35VN Bravo 1 for all of last year and most of this one, and it has been one of the best all around fixed blades I've had the pleasure of using.

It gets sharp and stays that way, and hasn't rusted after being sweated on and submerged in water (I brought it everywhere I rafted, canoed, etc.). It also resists kydex scratches better than A2 or 3V does :)
 
Thanks Matthew. How long time you have your s35vn bravo 1? Do you use it every day during the years.
 
I've been able to use S35VN in a commercial setting without fear of cross contamination. Nut allergies would be a bigger concern only in that oils getting on a handle can be an easy way to irritate someone's inflamitory response with porus materials. I'd just be careful not to use a tool that's had contact with anything poisionous that will eventually touch food.
 
Thanks Matthew. How long time you have your s35vn bravo 1? Do you use it every day during the years.

I've had it for almost 2 years. Definitely didn't use it daily, but easily several times per week. It looks way better than my 3V or A2 Bravo 1s did after similar use.
 
S35VN has been around for a while. Many manufacturers use it on a regular basis for folding knives over fixed blades like the Bravo 1. Coincidentally, I own the Bravo 1 in S35VN and I've used it for yard work, light chopping of green wood, and last year I gave it to a grind to use when he went deer hunting. He ended up cleaning a couple deer with it, and he is still in good health. I would really not worry unless you are planning on going into the woods for the next 3 years on a solitary survival expedition with no other human contact.

I think you won't get many answers: most s35v users are dead from poisoning ;)

LMAO!
 
Dan you could check out the 3v version as well. It's not prone to rusting at all really. Some people insist it does because it is not a true stainless, but I have 3 barkies in it and none of a spot of rust on them at all. And yes they see much use in northern ontario! I even forgot 1 in a soft tackle bag in my canoe for honestly about 3 weeks. Sheath was nearly completly messed and lots of tackle rusted but the 3v was fine, there was a bit of crap black stuff where there was still flesh on the blade before I had forgot it there. A warm wash clothe removed everything no soap or anything. There's a very slight patina on it now, but only noticeable when it starts to get dimmer in the evenings. For corrosion resistance and stupid toughness it's a wonder why every knife isn't made of it.
 
I have bravo 1 in A2 steel. It can rust so no good for long time (many years) in woods in Northern Ontario, Canada.
Looking at s35vn (s3 not good)
It is powder metal Steel, and it is a problem.
Powder metal is made by compressing old-steel powder, at high temperature. It consist of powder grains welded together and air in between grains.
Cutting some poisonous stuff will let poison to get inside the steel, between powder grains and it is there and after washing. Use the knife to eat and one is dead from poisson.

Ps. Powder metal bushing are soaked in oil over night and are used as no additional lubricant journal bearings. Oil from inside the steel leaks out as a lubricant. Another fact: company that makes powder metal parts has more than half floor area with containers for scraps. It is not reliable on strength, even if pass strength control. You never know when it will break. Tables with strength are fine burst not so reliable and strength dissipation is great ( I used to be eng. in powder-metal manufacturing company, Canada)

Soooo, is s35vn any good knife material????
What I am missing

This post is full of the most nonsense about steel anyone has ever posted in the history of the world.
 
Back
Top