Bark River Green&Black compounds

T

troller

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Jun 15, 2010
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I know that Bark River Green (finer) and Black (coarser) stropping compound are really good for convex sharpening.

I just don't know what is the equivalent grit of them... what is it like... 2000 grit for the black and 5000 for the green?

or even finer?

Assuming that I have some sanding paper of the SAME grit as the compound, is it the same result, or the compound is more "precise"?

thanks :)
 
It's my understanding that the green is .5 micron and the black 1.8 micron. That would make black around 8000 mesh, I think. I've done some searching on this question too. Others's may know more.
 
I feel sure that the Bark River compound is truly superb, as is everything else that Mr. Stewart sells. :thumbup:

Nevertheless, I've never been tempted to buy it simply because BRKT refuses to release the grit size.

I am well aware that this is more than just a bit "nit-picky" but I have a very strong desire to know just exactly what I'm buying. :grumpy:
 
That's the size of 'er right there. Nobody knows, because Mike says he doesn't know. I've heard the question put to him. IIR, he said something like, "I don't know (or care?). All I know is that it works.

From the way "it works", or what the scratch pattern or sheen of the bevel looks like to guys who should know these sorts of things, if I were to average their responses, I would say the black is 4-5u, and the green .5-1u.
 
grizzled gizzard said:
That's the size of 'er right there. Nobody knows, because Mike says he doesn't know. I've heard the question put to him. IIR, he said something like, "I don't know (or care?). All I know is that it works.

From the way "it works", or what the scratch pattern or sheen of the bevel looks like to guys who should know these sorts of things, if I were to average their responses, I would say the black is 4-5u, and the green .5-1u.
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I find it inconceivable that Mr. Stewart doesn't know exactly what he's using and selling.

He's far too experienced and accomplished as a business man not to know. I can certainly respect his desire to conceal the details of his manufacturing process, but to imply that he doesn't know what he's using in his own factory negatively impacts his creditibility.:(
 
Easy BD, just relaying what he has indicated, not speaking to the absoluteness of his answer. I find it a little tough to swallow myself, but what purpose would hedging the truth serve.

I actually know a guy who could easily have it analyzed in a laboratory, as he has done with other compounds. His lab is very sophisticated, and would most easily be able to tell particle size, distribution, properties, carriers, etc., and just about anything else you could possibly imagine. I'm sure Mike is aware of this too.

The easiest way for you to find out would simply be for you to ask him in the other forum, or call Mike and see what he says. Should be real easy to find his phone number. I already know what he has said in the not too distant past. It has been discussed. I was there.

I happen to think that you implying that he's less than honest regarding a simple question such as this reflects even more negatively upon him, but I'm not judging him either way.

Maybe you doubt my word? You certainly need not. It is easily corroborative. See the post right above my last post. What do you think he has said on this subject in the past? Maybe, "I know exactly what it is, and I ain't tellin."? That may be more honest, but the fact remains he ain't tellin, and your guess is as good as mine why that would be.
 
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gg

I agree with your well taken points posted above. It is most certainly not my intention to denigrate Mr. Stewart, as I have the utmost respect for his dedication to producing quality products, and providing outstanding customer service.

But as you yourself said, if he would make a statement indicating that, for his own reasons, he chooses not to disclose this particular information, it would most certainly be more credible than "I don't know."

I own several BRKT knives, and have gifted others to family and friends. They are quality products, and I will, in all likelihood, purchase several more in the future.
 
Thanks a bunch BD, I truly appreciate your open mindedness, and I think you relayed your point of view very nicely as well.

I respect Mike, and have several of his knives as well. It doesn't bother me that he chooses to avoid the point. I'm sure he has a reason for it, or it may just be possible that he has utmost confidence in his supplier, and really doesn't know or care. I sure don't know, but that is just my very humble opinion. I would never try to put words in Mike's mouth, but I listen carefully to the words that come out. He has treated me well.
 
Based on what I have read (with little or no authority): Black (silicon carbide) compound is 2-5 micron, Green (chromium oxide) is 0.5-1.5 micron.

Also, on limited authority: 2 micron is 8000 grit/mesh, 1 micron is 16000 grit/mesh, 0.5 micron is 32000 grit/mesh.
 
grizzled gizzard said:
That's the size of 'er right there. Nobody knows, because Mike says he doesn't know. I've heard the question put to him. IIR, he said something like, "I don't know (or care?). All I know is that it works.

From the way "it works", or what the scratch pattern or sheen of the bevel looks like to guys who should know these sorts of things, if I were to average their responses, I would say the black is 4-5u, and the green .5-1u.
Click to expand...

While we're on the topic of the compounds, a quick stropping question. If I were to strop a knife that was finished on a Spyderco Ultra Fine rod, 3u, they say, then I were to strop on the black, 4-5u, would I be undoing the work of the ultrafine rod? Should I go straight to green from the Ultra Fine?

Thanks
 
The product description for the Bark River compounds (DLT Trading Co.) lists the grit/mesh as 3000 for black, 6000 for green, 12000 for white (AlO). These amounts follow the US standard. The grit/mesh/micron amounts listed above follow the Japanese water stone standards.

This would mean: black 3k (US)/6k (JP), green 6k(US)/16k (JP), white 12k (US)/40k (JP)

Again, this is based on limited authority.
 
Iris223 said:
While we're on the topic of the compounds, a quick stropping question. If I were to strop a knife that was finished on a Spyderco Ultra Fine rod, 3u, they say, then I were to strop on the black, 4-5u, would I be undoing the work of the ultrafine rod? Should I go straight to green from the Ultra Fine?

Thanks
Click to expand...

For one thing, it depends on your backing for compounds. If you are using leather, the leather "absorbs" part of the grit, you know, the grit gets pushed down into the leather. If you are using the same grit on mylar and glass, the scratches on your blade would be deeper. Does that make sense?

I don't think they have a very good way to quantify the grit of ceramics, and it makes a tremendous difference whether your ceramics are perfectly clean, and you are using the correct amount of pressure, which is about none.

Personally, I get better more consistent results with compounds on leather- more polish, and smoother, more refined edge. YMMV.
 
In my opinion, the compounds are sized as such...

Black- Too coarse.

Green- Just right.

Hope that helps!

JGON
 
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