Bark River Inquisition

J

Jbono731

Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Messages
14
Hey guys. This is my first post on this forum. There is a ton of info out here, but I am searching for an answer to my one particular question. I have purchased a survival knife in the past. The Gerber LMF II, I do like the knife, however, I am looking for more of a bushcraft survival knife as opposed to the urban. After much reading, and review watching. I have taken great interest in the Bark River Bravo 1. My question is on the blade steel. I have heard people loving the A2 steel, and having no complaints. I have not heard many reviews on the Bark River with the CPM 154 Stainless Steel. My question is, would it be in my best interest to pony up the extra cash for the stainless steel blade, or would the A2 steel be just fine. Or does each blade have its pros and cons, and what would they be? Thanks guys!
 
Bark River's CPM 154 rocks, but so does their A2.


You pay more for the Stainless, but for some it's worth it.



Mine is A2, :cool:




...Obviously! :eek: :rolleyes: :eek:




Big Mike
 
You'll find a carbon steel, like A2, to be somewhat tougher than stainless steels. I've had no problems with A2.

Vin
 
So with that said, if you had the money for the stainless, would you purchase it? Or would you prefer the A2?

I guess I am saying, if they both were sitting in front of you, and you could have either one, which would you choose, and why?
 
Jbono731 said:
So with that said, if you had the money for the stainless, would you purchase it? Or would you prefer the A2?

I guess I am saying, if they both were sitting in front of you, and you could have either one, which would you choose, and why?
Click to expand...


I'd take the CPM 154 knife...



...it's greater value on the aftermarket being the deciding factor. :D






Big Mike
 
I would/did choose the A2 unless I was working around a saltwater environment. Just a somewhat tougher steel that Bark River has used for a long time and nailed the heat treat on (i.e., go with what they know).
 
I'd go with the A2 unless I was worrying about rust. Which I don't since I keep them well oiled and have a way to prevent rust with me anyway.
 
Ok, well I am in upstate NY so I am not to concerned with salt water. So keeping the A2 oiled should be ok. How do you guys feel about forcing a patina? Or would you let your own form.
 
Jbono731 said:
Ok, well I am in upstate NY so I am not to concerned with salt water. So keeping the A2 oiled should be ok. How do you guys feel about forcing a patina? Or would you let your own form.
Click to expand...



Just get the A2, you won't be disappointed.


I never oil mine, just wash and dry it when needed.


As you can see in my photo above, A2 will Patina over time,

...but it's not as prone to corrosion as less alloyed steels like 1095 and O1.


Bark River's A2 is hard to beat. :thumbup:





Big Mike
 
Thanks Big Mike, I am looking forward to getting my hands on the Bravo 1 and giving it a shot in the field myself.
 
The A2 is just fine. I've been using my A2 Bravo 1 for a couple years now, and have had no problems with corrosion (or of any other kind for that matter) Just keep it clean and dry it off after you get it wet, and you shouldn't have any troubles. Great knife, great steel. :thumbup: My Bravo 1 is hands-down my favorite all-rounder fixed blade. It doesn't get much better.
 
Forced patina isnt needed. Its neat to do to add a design of your own though.
 
These are the only chips I have on my Bravo 1 A2

65f4656f.jpg


but all joking aside, the A2 Bravo IS hard to beat!

6cdf92fb.jpg
 
I would go for A2 Bravo 1.
If you want stainless I think Falkniven F1 or S1 might be a better deal.
 
Yea, that is what I am going to do. Now I am just shopping around for a good price. I am going to go with the Bravo 1 with the A2 steel. I take very good care of my equipment so from what everyone is saying I should be good. Now the next step will be getting some time with it in the field. I am going to guess just by looking at it that I am going to either change the sheath completely or modify it. I have seen mixed reviews on the standard kydex it comes with, and some people preferring a custom leather. We will have to see.

I tend to go for the bare bones functionality, I am contemplating maybe a fire steel, and mini flashlight holster, modified right onto the sheath. But these are just thoughts. . .
 
Jbono731 said:
Yea, that is what I am going to do. Now I am just shopping around for a good price. I am going to go with the Bravo 1 with the A2 steel. I take very good care of my equipment so from what everyone is saying I should be good. Now the next step will be getting some time with it in the field. I am going to guess just by looking at it that I am going to either change the sheath completely or modify it. I have seen mixed reviews on the standard kydex it comes with, and some people preferring a custom leather. We will have to see.

I tend to go for the bare bones functionality, I am contemplating maybe a fire steel, and mini flashlight holster, modified right onto the sheath. But these are just thoughts. . .
Click to expand...


Do yourself a favor and get the Sharpshooter leather sheath Bark River has made for the Bravo 1. It is excellent. Their kydex is garbage.
 
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