Baryonyx Ptarmigan: Prototype?

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Oct 13, 2002
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Made from high-purity white aluminum oxide in a ceramic bond, this stone produces a highly polished edge suitable for push-cutting tools. Cuts rapidly with excellent feedback and light slurry-forming ability. By varying if it is used wet, damp, or dry, the performance qualities can be altered depending on if you are apexing, refining, or polishing your edge. Made with pride in the USA!


Abrasive Type: High-Purity White Aluminum Oxide
Grit: 3 Micron (FEPA F 1200 | ANSI FFFF+ | JIS 6000)
Bond: Medium
Cut Finish: Extra Fine
Cut Speed: Fast
Weight: 1lb 2oz
Length: 8"
Width: 2"
Thickness: 1"

Interestingly enough, it has been released without any fanfare. Why is it listed as a prototype? And what do you guys think about it? Sounds like a great finisher for my personal needs as I almost never go below 6K (JIS)...
 
It's listed as a prototype, because that's what it is--we only had a few of them done up. We've already sold out of them but will be having a production run made in the same formulation, probably in the first quarter of 2018, though possibly sooner. Depends on how some other projects go. :)
 
I have noticed that the AF stains rather readily (e.g. flattening it with a stone of a contrasting color). I am assuming the reduced porosity of the Ptarmigan will reduce such staining?
 
Interestingly enough, it has been released without any fanfare. Why is it listed as a prototype? And what do you guys think about it? Sounds like a great finisher for my personal needs as I almost never go below 6K (JIS)...

Yes, this is a great finishing/polishing stone, I'd recommend it if you have a good sense of how it fits into your lineup of stones, and that you want or need something like this. I've been using mine, and posting it about here in the forums for a few weeks now. Haven't done any actual review, but have used it a lot already. I have a few threads recently that mention the stone and sharpening results with it. Like here: What grit do you use for profiling

Here is how I'm using this stone in my lineup of stones. I have 2 categories of stones in my sharpening collection (with a few other SiC stones like my Norton Crystolon as well):
  • For everything BUT high vanadium or super hard steels: AlOx stones. Norton economy, and Baryonyx stones including Artic Fox field, bench, and Ptarmigan.
  • For high vanadium steels: diamond stones. Atoma 140, Ultrasharp, DMT.
Although the diamond stones get every bit as good results on regular steels, better on high vanadium, and often work faster too, I still prefer sharpening a lot more with the AlOx stones, especially the Baryonyx ones. I use the Baryonyx AlOx stones whenever possible, only resorting to diamonds when I have to.

For the majority of knives I own, they are steels in the first category, so I can use AlOx stones for most of my sharpening. In that sharpening routine, I do not see the Ptarmigan as a necessity, it's a luxury, but hey this is BF, right? :) Here's the sequence I've been using on all steels in the first category above and getting fantastic results:

  • AF for minor-to-moderate edge repair, edge reset that falls short of a full edge reprofile, and apexing.
  • Ptarmigan to finish--5 to 10 super super light edge-leading strokes per side.
    • You COULD also use Ptarmigan as your maintenance strategy, if you want to go "stropless" and just do light backhone passes on a stone. I've used it that way and it worked great. Though lately, I've resorted to a wood strop + 1 micron cbn compound for my maintenance, since that will maintain ALL my knives of all steel types and removes slightly less metal, with a reduced risk of boogering up my edges during the "backhone" stone-stropping step.
Admitting that Ptarmigan is not a necessity, and that it's not optimal to use on high vanadium steels: it is a fantastic finishing stone and I would definitely recommend it to somebody who wants to use it in that role. It holds water well similar to AF if you submerge for about 30 mins, so you can use it throughout a sharpening session. It has a softer bond I think than AF, so it'll easily and quickly form a light slurry if you want that, even using very light edge-leading strokes.
 
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Then you need the Ptarmigan. :-) It is pure fun sharpening on this thing. I only wish I had a larger role to use it beyond just as a quick finishing stone. I like using it so much, it's tempting to go back to stone-stropping and using it as my maintenance strategy too.
 
I have noticed that the AF stains rather readily (e.g. flattening it with a stone of a contrasting color). I am assuming the reduced porosity of the Ptarmigan will reduce such staining?

White/pale stones in general have a tendency to get a bit grubby looking. That's not necessarily bad so long as the grit is shedding at an appropriate rate. :)
 
Mine doesn't really get that grubby, at least not yet anyway. For cleaning after use, literally all I do is rinse it off under running water and lightly brush the sharpening surface with my fingertips, I don't even need soap or a brush, and I don't worry about getting it pristine. A few times I took Bar Keepers Friend and a Scotch pad and lightly scrubbed the surface which got it to pure white again, but really doesn't seem to matter as Ben said, it's super easy to maintain so far. I haven't used it enough yet to require lapping, but when needed, I can lap on my Atoma 140.

The one thing I haven't checked yet is what would happen if I sharpen black coated blades, like say my ESEE outdoor fixed blades or Swamp Rat blades, on this stone. It'll mostly be the non-coated edge that will contact the stone anyway, but I do kinda wonder if that black coating will turn into crud and really muck up the pretty white stone. :-)
 
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