Basic 110 Info

T

The Savage Rabbit

Joined
Nov 30, 2006
Messages
351
I have two questions that I would like to put to the group. One is specific and the other open-ended.

(1) What makes a 110 a "Two Dot" or "Three Dot" knife?

(2) What types of 110 collecting strategies do you guys persue? Are there quality differences between years that you focus on? Do you go for a 110 for every year since 1902? Are there secrets to valuing 110s other than the value or expense of the materials used?
 
The Savage Rabbit said:
...
(2) What types of 110 collecting strategies do you guys persue? Are there quality differences between years that you focus on? Do you go for a 110 for every year since 1902? Are there secrets to valuing 110s other than the value or expense of the materials used?
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My strategy is that I only collect 110.
I would like to get one of each of the various wood liners.
And maybe one 110 from each year is something for me to think about.
 
I'm thinking that collecting 110s may be something I should get into. I've always had a soft spot for Bucks and I really like the 110. I may look for regular production 110s from each year.

That should provide for an inexpensive, long term hobby. I have a 2006, so I think I'll start collecting in reverse chronological order. That way the hobby will get more difficult as I get more experience.
 
Buck_110 said:
The 110 was "hatched" in 1963. It debuted to the public in 1964.
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Good to know. I assumed it started in 1902. I started collecting 5 minutes ago and just cut 62 knives from my list. I'm on a roll. If I keep this pace up I'll be done before I brush my teeth tonight. :D
 
There are too many years and variations for me to be able to have every one. So at this point, any 110 that is different from what I already have is of interest to me.
 
The Savage Rabbit said:
...If I keep this pace up I'll be done before I brush my teeth tonight. :D
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Bunny...
Your teeth will all be gone by the time you even think you are done.
This "hobby" has outlasted two ex-wives and not one of my Bucks has ever given me any crap.

Like Messy said, just get whatever 110 you don't have. I don't care for ones with the blade etchings of possums mating or statues that the French gave us...but I have a few just because.

"Inexpensive"???? What Trax said....
 
Buckaholic said:
Bunny...

Like Messy said, just get whatever 110 you don't have. I don't care for ones with the blade etchings of possums mating or statues that the French gave us...but I have a few just because.

.
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Unlike Marvin.....Mr. Rabbit,

I like the blade etched limited edition Bucks and there over a 159 etched 110's listed in the Blades Guide alone and that only covers the years of 1975 - 1994. So you see we all have different ideas on what to collect.....but, this Buck addition.....well it is expensive $$$$$$$$. I've been on the look out for the mating possums 110.....Don't have that one yet;) . Just remember "silly rabbit trax are for kids....er....a....I mean trix are for kids" :D

jb4570
 
As far as valuing 110s goes, luck, age, rarity and availability all play a role in cost in addition to materials. Some knives are hard to find because they are old and few have survived. Others are rare because only a few were made. Still others are hard to find because they have popular features and those that have them want to hang on to them.
 
Well how expensive do regular production 110's get?

In any event, I'm already re-thinking the "one reg. production 110 for each year sinc '64" idea. In the end I'd have a lot of the same thing just from different years.

I think I'll just buy whatever strikes my fancy and go from there.

- Le Rabbit
 
I collect different handle materials I look for like new never been sharpened or used, don't really care when it was made.
 
You may find a well used Buck 110 for $5 but you will not likely find a collectible quality 110 of any age for $5. Keep in mind that Buck knives are some of the best knives made. If you want the good stuff, you will pay for it. Also, you can expect your collecting interests to go in many different directions in the beginning. After a while you will then settle in on the knives that represent your true interests. I would go slow in the beginning knowing that as you learn more your interests may change.
 
I am of the opinion that it can be expensive IF you are not in a big hurry to get all of the production versions from 1964 to present. I still get phone calls all the time from guys that find older 110's for $10! Those kinds of deals are out there but you need to spend a lot of time at garage sales, swap meets, and pawn shops. One theme I hear a lot from those that find the bargains is that they hit the older mom and pop hardware stores, (if you can find one) and ask them if they have any Buck knives in the back room. Surprisingly, this technique works.
If money is no object, hit one of the online auction sites. You can still find a lot of the yellow boxed 110's in new condition there, but you will most likely pay dearly.
I finally had to start selling off my 110 collection because I did not want to have an ex-wife and to collect the 110's, AND the older hand made fixed bladed knives, was taking all of her, i mean our $$. :rolleyes:
Its still fun to look for one 110 with each date code mark and since that only goes back to 1986, they are not all that expensive once you do find one.
Hope this helps.
 
Buckaholic said:
I don't care for ones with the blade etchings of possums mating
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The heck with possums mating! I want a 110 with a picture of Buckaholic's stepmom on the handle! Like scrimshawed rivetless ivory micarta.

Where'd she go, man? Out fishing again?
 
Hey Rabbit..

I just started collecting 110"s Oh did I say that out loud?

I think I will get all the WalMart Christmas Tin 110's.

Good Luck

Hawkeye :thumbup:
 
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