Batoning a Fallkniven F1

Joined
Sep 29, 2005
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I've had a Fallkniven F1 for a little while and generally think it's a great knife.

I was bored last night and decided to see how well it stands up to batoning. I recall reading somewhere in a thread here that one person considered batoning to be a normal use of an F1 and not at all exceptional.

So I grabbed a 1x2 length of poplar, a pine 2x4 and a 1x2 length of red oak.

I used the oak to baton through the poplar and the 2x4, edge on, at an angle, taking wedges out of the wood. I pretty much beat on the F1 like a redheaded stepchild and got through both pieces of wood with little trouble, though my hands were a bit sore afterwards.

I then took a 1" x 1" chunk out of the poplar by batoning the F1 straight down into the poplar in two places 1" apart and popping out the waste.

The oak 1x2 had a bunch of dents in it from the batoning, but the F1 didn't have a freaking mark on it. Nothing on the spine, no apparent damage to the edge, which was still sharp enough to shave.

Pretty wild.
 
Wow. You must have had a killer edge on it, for it to stay that sharp.
What angle was it sharpened at?
 
Wow, I'm impressed. I was planning on getting one of these, and after reading your post now I want one bad. Of course mine may not be like yours, but its good to know it has the ability.
 
I recently got an F1 and an S1. The design and quality are great. I have not batoned before but have some idea of how it works. I assume that you hit the top of the blade that extends beyond the wood you are splitting. Is this true?
I just got a U2. Great size for the pocket (without clip). Shows a bit in my pants but is comfortable.
 
They are made for rugged use, Peter H. of Fallkniven designed the extended tang as an impact point to allow the point to be forcefully hammered into wood to weaken it where it can be broken for example.

-Cliff
 
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