BD1 steel vs S110 vs S30V

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Oct 1, 2014
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I am looking at the Manix 2 lineup and was wondering what is the best steel to get this knife in. The BD1 is the cheapest and unless one of the other ones is greatly superior I would lean toward that. I have an S30V PM2 and like the steel. However, I have no experience with S110 or BD1. So which is best for EDC? I also like the g10 handles that come with the s30v so it may be worth the extra $10-$15 over the BD1 lightweight version.
 
i would rather choose BD1

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I have a G10 Manix 2 and a Manix 2 XL, great solid workhorse folders with great ergonomics.

I have a mate with a BD1 lightweight, I've sharpened it for him a few times, and it's a nice light EDC folder for sure, but not for me simply because the handle feels too light and plasticy, perhaps because I can't help comparing it to the solid, confidence inspiring grip of the steel lined G10 version.
Depends on how important weight is to you I guess.

S30V seems to me to have noticeably better edge retention than BD1.
S110V is better than either for edge retention. Qualifier: I don't have any S110V blades - yet - but I do have a few in S90V and it's definitely my favourite stainless steel so my opinion is based on that.

IMO the G10 Manix is the better choice.
Now, what we need is that S110V thing Spyderco did with the Lightweight Manix to spread to other models.
Please Sal??
 
My wife has EDC a BD1 for over a year now. In the kitchen and garden. The blade likes scratches, which actually looks nice now. Also with that wet environment, no rust or spotting ever. We dont even oil is, just wash it in the sink and air dry. Not a single drop since day one. Does not need it.

I had a 110V and there is a huge difference. For a knife nut that is better. For my wife the BD1 needs no maintenance and holds an edge just fine.
 
BD1 will be the easiest to sharpen, and likely the most stain-resistant (thought all 3 are slow to corrode), but that comes with losing it's edge rather quickly, and if you use your knife all the time throughout a day, you will sometimes find yourself having to sharpen it more often than once a day, or at least needing to touch it up on a strop. That would all depend on what you are doing with it throughout the day though.
I view BD1 as an improvement on many of the common "cheap" steels like 8cr13mov, and AUS-8. It holds an edge arguably longer, though not by enough that you would really notice, but takes finishing better, is even easier to sharpen (YMMV), and it is more corrosion resistant than other cheaper steels.
-- In my opinion, BD1 is an excellent steel for anyone who might have to abuse their blades or their edges, as it is very easy overall to repair, and it is also great for people who want to learn more about sharpening.

S30V is by now famous (or infamous depending on how you view it), but personally I don't like it because it can be somewhat inconsistent in performance, even from the same manufacturer with the same grinds. It can very easily be prone to chipping, and while not everyone will have this experience, then steel has an inherently lower overall toughness than BD1 or S110V by it's chemical composition as well once heat treated.
It does however hold an edge much better than BD1, though it takes more work to get that edge, and you do need to keep in mind that S30V will generally hold a toothy edge much better than it will a full polished edge. If you put the work in on S30V to get a completely mirrored edge, you will likely be overall disappointed with the performance if you continually use the knife all the time, because that initial insane level of sharpness often fades away rather quickly, but the steel will then hold a working edge for a very long time.
-- S30V is something I view as more of a good "go-to" steel for companies than it really is for consumers. I personally like S35VN more in just about ever respect when it is heat treated properly, but at the same time S30V is just about perfect for knives that are moderate-use.

S110V on the other hand is the hardest to sharpen out of all of them (though if you have a good guided sharpening system or a good amount of skill this won't bother you at all), but holds an edge the best out of all of them as well.
S110V is very good at holding both a fine polished edge and a toothier edge over time, though it can chip if the hardness of the blade is taken higher in order to get better wear resistance and edge retention. I don't believe Spyderco takes their S110V that hard though, and they likely keep it at about 60rc, which leaves it pretty easy to sharpen (certainly much easier than S90V), while giving it overall excellent edge retention when compared to just about anything else, and keeping it tough enough not to chip easily on you.
-- S110v requires more experience for re-profiling the edge or something similar, but is an overall great steel for someone who knows how to sharpen, and uses their knives properly without abusing them, and desires much longer edge retention overall.

Basically, I prefer S110V over the other options given, but it is not my go-to steel by any means either. Personally, I prefer M390, and sometimes S90V, to S110V in almost all cases. I would say that the S110V manix was a knife-nut-on-a-budget's dream when it came to blade steels, and was a really good overall knife as well.
I will need to get myself one of them to play around with and see exactly what the performance of Spyderco's S110V is myself sometime soon here. I have sharpened a couple of them for friends, and I have used several other S110V knives, but I will admit that I have not gotten to do any thorough testing with that specific specimen yet.
 
For hard use, I would go with S110V, but for ease of sharpening, and if we were going to use this as an every day EDC blade, I'd pick BD1. In fact, I had the Manix2 in BD1 and found it just fine for EDC duties. I ended up giving it to a good friend because he absolutely would NOT shut up about it. LOL Love that guy.
 
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