BD1 will be the easiest to sharpen, and likely the most stain-resistant (thought all 3 are slow to corrode), but that comes with losing it's edge rather quickly, and if you use your knife all the time throughout a day, you will sometimes find yourself having to sharpen it more often than once a day, or at least needing to touch it up on a strop. That would all depend on what you are doing with it throughout the day though.
I view BD1 as an improvement on many of the common "cheap" steels like 8cr13mov, and AUS-8. It holds an edge arguably longer, though not by enough that you would really notice, but takes finishing better, is even easier to sharpen (YMMV), and it is more corrosion resistant than other cheaper steels.
-- In my opinion, BD1 is an excellent steel for anyone who might have to abuse their blades or their edges, as it is very easy overall to repair, and it is also great for people who want to learn more about sharpening.
S30V is by now famous (or infamous depending on how you view it), but personally I don't like it because it can be somewhat inconsistent in performance, even from the same manufacturer with the same grinds. It can very easily be prone to chipping, and while not everyone will have this experience, then steel has an inherently lower overall toughness than BD1 or S110V by it's chemical composition as well once heat treated.
It does however hold an edge much better than BD1, though it takes more work to get that edge, and you do need to keep in mind that S30V will generally hold a toothy edge much better than it will a full polished edge. If you put the work in on S30V to get a completely mirrored edge, you will likely be overall disappointed with the performance if you continually use the knife all the time, because that initial insane level of sharpness often fades away rather quickly, but the steel will then hold a working edge for a very long time.
-- S30V is something I view as more of a good "go-to" steel for companies than it really is for consumers. I personally like S35VN more in just about ever respect when it is heat treated properly, but at the same time S30V is just about perfect for knives that are moderate-use.
S110V on the other hand is the hardest to sharpen out of all of them (though if you have a good guided sharpening system or a good amount of skill this won't bother you at all), but holds an edge the best out of all of them as well.
S110V is very good at holding both a fine polished edge and a toothier edge over time, though it can chip if the hardness of the blade is taken higher in order to get better wear resistance and edge retention. I don't believe Spyderco takes their S110V that hard though, and they likely keep it at about 60rc, which leaves it pretty easy to sharpen (certainly much easier than S90V), while giving it overall excellent edge retention when compared to just about anything else, and keeping it tough enough not to chip easily on you.
-- S110v requires more experience for re-profiling the edge or something similar, but is an overall great steel for someone who knows how to sharpen, and uses their knives properly without abusing them, and desires much longer edge retention overall.
Basically, I prefer S110V over the other options given, but it is not my go-to steel by any means either. Personally, I prefer M390, and sometimes S90V, to S110V in almost all cases. I would say that the S110V manix was a knife-nut-on-a-budget's dream when it came to blade steels, and was a really good overall knife as well.
I will need to get myself one of them to play around with and see exactly what the performance of Spyderco's S110V is myself sometime soon here. I have sharpened a couple of them for friends, and I have used several other S110V knives, but I will admit that I have not gotten to do any thorough testing with that specific specimen yet.