BD1 Steel

A

aqgonzo

Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Messages
19
I don't know much about this steel on the lightweight manix 2. What other steels can it be compared to.
 
Going by previous threads about it, it's supposed to be Carpenter Steel's version of Japanese GIN-1.

Having looked at it on the Spyderco 2011 steel chart, it looks like it should perform a lot like Japanese Aus-8 or Chinese 8Cr13MoV.

They are also considering using it in the new line of kitchen knives too.
 
It is quite decent when it comes to edge holding, similiar to ColdSteel's Aus 8. It could be me, but i have difficulty sharpening BD1 to a razor edge.
 
Frozy, not just you. I was having trouble with getting it razor sharp too. The problem I had was that I was getting burrs, so someone suggested cutting into a piece of wood after sharpening to remove the burrs, and that helped a lot. Try that.
 
Thanks for the advice, but mine's a ukpk so i won't use it on wood. And mine doesn't seem to have burr problem
 
Personally, I find it acts like 14c28n Sandvik, in that both seem to have very high initial edge stability, but dull more quickly than other steels once you lose that razor sharp edge. I like both for light use.
 
Frozy said:
It is quite decent when it comes to edge holding, similiar to ColdSteel's Aus 8. It could be me, but i have difficulty sharpening BD1 to a razor edge.
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That's interesting that you bring up that point "Frozy" because when I carried/EDCed my GIN-1 Spyderco Renegade model for almost a year at one time I noticed that as well. Now don't get me wrong because I could obtain a good toothy edge for general utility work but I couldn't get a super razor edge like I can with VG-10 or ZDP-189 for instance.

I've yet to find a blade steel as difficult to reprofile as Crucible's older 440V (S60V) but GIN-1 was also a bit difficult to reprofile as well.

Considering all of the newer steels out there and also considering the great dependability of VG-10 it's doubtful I would ever have any use for BD1. If it's comparable to the older GIN-1 I don't see what the advantage would be unless it's considered for Spyderco's "Byrd" line of knives.
 
Insipid Moniker said:
Personally, I find it acts like 14c28n Sandvik, in that both seem to have very high initial edge stability, but dull more quickly than other steels once you lose that razor sharp edge. I like both for light use.
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Interesting observation. I will have to keep that in mind when I get around to picking up the Manix 2 Lightweight.
 
Frozy said:
It is quite decent when it comes to edge holding, similiar to ColdSteel's Aus 8. It could be me, but i have difficulty sharpening BD1 to a razor edge.
Click to expand...

I have the ukpk too, and I get that steel scary sharp...just be very consistent, and use the very lightest of pressure the last 10 strokes.

I like BD-1 as a light use sort of steel. Not really liking it for something on a Manix platform, even a "lightweight" version. But on the ukpk, perfection I think.
 
Frozy said:
Thanks for the advice, but mine's a ukpk so i won't use it on wood. And mine doesn't seem to have burr problem
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Just curious, but what about the UKPK makes you not want to use it on wood. And it's not really "using" it on wood, for what he is describing, anyways. You want to lightly run the edge through wood, not carve it away or anything. It's hard for me to explain, but Murray Carter uses that technique to sharpen, and shows it on some youtube videos. Just one or two quick passes to kill the burr, which are sometimes hard to see or feel.

For the record I've done way more wood work with slipjoints than with locking folders.
 
goodeyesniper said:
Just curious, but what about the UKPK makes you not want to use it on wood. And it's not really "using" it on wood, for what he is describing, anyways. You want to lightly run the edge through wood, not carve it away or anything. It's hard for me to explain, but Murray Carter uses that technique to sharpen, and shows it on some youtube videos. Just one or two quick passes to kill the burr, which are sometimes hard to see or feel.

For the record I've done way more wood work with slipjoints than with locking folders.
Click to expand...

I was wondering about that statement myself. I also tend to do the majority of my woodcarving with non-locking knives.
 
goodeyesniper said:
Just curious, but what about the UKPK makes you not want to use it on wood. And it's not really "using" it on wood, for what he is describing, anyways. You want to lightly run the edge through wood, not carve it away or anything. It's hard for me to explain, but Murray Carter uses that technique to sharpen, and shows it on some youtube videos. Just one or two quick passes to kill the burr, which are sometimes hard to see or feel.

For the record I've done way more wood work with slipjoints than with locking folders.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I didn't mean that the ukpk is unsafe to use, it's just that I'm not used to it. I do actually use my case peanut for all wood and plastic carvings...
 
It should have very very good corrosion resistance :)

And Frozy, I helped shakyamuni with that problem. Just cut into the wood 2-3 times and do 3 more lite strokes on your sharpening media and you should get a better edge ;)
 
I was amazed at how sharp my Translucent Manix 2 got in just a few quick licks on a steel. The TM2 is my favorite Spyderco. EVER.

John
 
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