Old CW4
BANNED
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2006
- Messages
- 870
Maybe I've had more than the normal number of careless shooters/hunters in my shop. Anyway, I recall two occasions when customers brought in jammed shotguns caused by buying shells from a super store and from a clerk who didn't know shotgun shells from tubes of deodorant. What these guys bought was 3 inch shells for their 2.75 inch shotguns! Then they shot some of those shells in their guns! They were damned lucky to only have jammed guns. They could have been maimed or killed!
Most 2.75 chambered pump and double barrel shotguns will chamber and fire three inch shells, perhaps ten or more, before jamming or blowing up. Semi autos will usually 'tell you' something is wrong by their violent reload function due to increased gas but not always. The cause of the extreme danger from too long shells is the internal barrel taper just in front of the actual chamber. The taper provides room for the shell to uncrimp when fired and reduces the internal diameter from that of the shell to the gauge diameter of the barrel proper through which the shot travels when fired.
In a three inch chamber, there's plenty of room for the shell's crimp to expand into that area. In a 2.75 chamber the 3.0 shell's crimp can also expand but not completely. The heat of firing can then cause some of the extra plastic crimp material to melt and fuse to that barrel area. Additional shots layer on more plastic and the barrel opening is obstructed more and more with each succeeding shot. Pressure builds along with the increasing barrel obstruction until the gun jams---or explodes as it is gradually turned into a pipe bomb! This is NOT theory, it has, and unfortunately, does happen with catastrophic results.
Bottom line. KNOW what length shells your shotgun is designed for and NEVER fire a longer shell in it!
Shorter is okay, for example, a 2.5 shell in a 2.75 chamber is fine; or either of those in a 3.0 inch chamber; and 2.5, 2.75, and 3.0 inch in a 3.5 inch chamber, no problem. But NEVER go the other way! BTW, the gauge and chamber length is usually (but not always) stamped on the upper left side of the barrel near the action. In any event, know your gun's chamber length and always shoot ONLY the correct length shells!
When buying shells, specify the length along with the gauge you need, then check what the clerk hands you. And be damned careful swapping shells with others when shooting or hunting.
One final comment: Some do-it-yourselfers and some incompetent or don't give a damn gunsmiths have been known to rework the internal taper area of shotguns so they'll accept longer shells. THIS IS A TOTALLY STUPID, DANGEROUS, AND EVEN CRIMINAL PRACTICE!
I compare this to idiots who have reamed out 38 special revolver chambers to accept 357 magnum rounds. It might work for a while but you've created a potential bomb! Guns are 'proof fired' (Proofed) when designed and manufactured to ensure they can safely handle the ammo for which they were designed. Changing guns to accomodate larger shells or rounds, and hot loading beyond published loading manual specifications is a recipe for disaster. Please don't do it or even contemplate it.....!
Most 2.75 chambered pump and double barrel shotguns will chamber and fire three inch shells, perhaps ten or more, before jamming or blowing up. Semi autos will usually 'tell you' something is wrong by their violent reload function due to increased gas but not always. The cause of the extreme danger from too long shells is the internal barrel taper just in front of the actual chamber. The taper provides room for the shell to uncrimp when fired and reduces the internal diameter from that of the shell to the gauge diameter of the barrel proper through which the shot travels when fired.
In a three inch chamber, there's plenty of room for the shell's crimp to expand into that area. In a 2.75 chamber the 3.0 shell's crimp can also expand but not completely. The heat of firing can then cause some of the extra plastic crimp material to melt and fuse to that barrel area. Additional shots layer on more plastic and the barrel opening is obstructed more and more with each succeeding shot. Pressure builds along with the increasing barrel obstruction until the gun jams---or explodes as it is gradually turned into a pipe bomb! This is NOT theory, it has, and unfortunately, does happen with catastrophic results.
Bottom line. KNOW what length shells your shotgun is designed for and NEVER fire a longer shell in it!
Shorter is okay, for example, a 2.5 shell in a 2.75 chamber is fine; or either of those in a 3.0 inch chamber; and 2.5, 2.75, and 3.0 inch in a 3.5 inch chamber, no problem. But NEVER go the other way! BTW, the gauge and chamber length is usually (but not always) stamped on the upper left side of the barrel near the action. In any event, know your gun's chamber length and always shoot ONLY the correct length shells!
When buying shells, specify the length along with the gauge you need, then check what the clerk hands you. And be damned careful swapping shells with others when shooting or hunting.
One final comment: Some do-it-yourselfers and some incompetent or don't give a damn gunsmiths have been known to rework the internal taper area of shotguns so they'll accept longer shells. THIS IS A TOTALLY STUPID, DANGEROUS, AND EVEN CRIMINAL PRACTICE!
I compare this to idiots who have reamed out 38 special revolver chambers to accept 357 magnum rounds. It might work for a while but you've created a potential bomb! Guns are 'proof fired' (Proofed) when designed and manufactured to ensure they can safely handle the ammo for which they were designed. Changing guns to accomodate larger shells or rounds, and hot loading beyond published loading manual specifications is a recipe for disaster. Please don't do it or even contemplate it.....!
