Bead-blasted Canvas Micarta - care & maintenance

[Daniel Koster]

Canvas micarta is probably the toughest synthetic material available to knifemakers. It is dense, hard, resistance to warping/moving, stable, resistant to water and so on.

However, it is not by any means "maintenance free".


If you have a canvas micarta handle - it DOES benefit from a "mineral oil bath" once a year. Helps keep the micarta from drying out and is a must for daily usage/carry (unless you're in the tropics....)


Here's what mineral oil looks like:

And here's a Wiki about it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil


You can get it anywhere there is a pharmacy - Walmart included. It is CHEAP (a dollar or so) and easy to use.

Plus it is FOOD SAFE. :thumbup:



Another substitute that is easy to get = WD-40
(but it's not food safe)


Take a look at this picture:

3 Knives - all in natural canvas micarta that has been bead-blasted for texture.

3 different levels of handle finish


If your knife looks like the one on the right - it is dry and needs some oil.

The knife in the center has just been "dipped" and has a fresh coat.

The knife to the left is what your handle should look like a few days after several dips in the oil - to let it soak in (it's just slightly darker).


Canvas micarta will darken slightly with time - especially true if it has been bead-blasted....and even moreso with natural canvas micarta (will eventually turn yellow-brown).



So, keep those handles oiled and not only will you have a great finish on your knife, but the handle will last longer too.


Any other care/maintenance comments?


Dan

 

[Noshtero]

I've heard of people just letting the handle sit submerged in oil for a couple days. Is that advised? Or is it better to dip it a few times?

How about something like Danish Oil to give it a darker finish?

 

[Daniel Koster]

letting it sit submerged is great!


The varnishing and penetrating oils can be used, but be careful that they don't leave a tacky finish.

 

[mymindisamob]

I use Burt's Bees Hand Salve on my hands then work the excess into my handles. I found out that since WD40 is a penetrating oil, it has properties that break down the canvas. Mineral Oil and good ol' body oils from use are still the best in my book. Thanks for bringing this up Dan. (BTW, what is the front knife in your pic?)

 

[stevomiller]

Does the mineral oil have any long term affect on the binders in the micarta? How about on the epoxy holding the scales to the tang?

Thanks for the tips.

 

[Daniel Koster]

no adverse affects from the mineral oil on anything else. It is clear and clean and very gentle.



mymindisamob...eyes peeled!!!!

 

[Jeepnut22]

Dang... I kinda like the look of the handle on the right!

 

[Fiddleback]

I use a significant amount of mineral oil in my shop too. Its good stuff. Especially on horn.

 

[Daniel Koster]

the handle on the right will immediately darken once you get any water or oil on it...so, it doesn't stay that way long...unless you never use it, of course....:foot:



mymindisamob:

here's the answer to your question:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540539

 

[cybrok]

Got some mineral oil

And a few micarta scales to oil

 

[Daniel Koster]

the stuff really has many uses....I use it to clean natural materials after I have waxed them too...

 

[deusker]

Thanks Dan, great info to know

 

[cybrok]

Seems a good place to ask:

I have a few micarta scales taking a oil bath right now. How long should I leave them in the oil, and how long should I let them "dry" before I get them back on the knives (that are being stripped of their black coating).

 

[biogon]

I didn't know micarta needed any maintenance at all.

Wacky... What about G10?

I may have to switch to that as my material of choice...

-j

 

[Daniel Koster]

Micarta is tougher/harder than G10, but G10 is more stable.

 

[Daniel Koster]

cybrok - you can let them soak as long or short as you like...will just have to test how long it lasts...I'm assuming you're not gluing the handles back on?...but fastening them instead...?....if so, just wipe it down before you put it back on. Mineral oil is not a true penetrating oil...but a good soaking oil. The more porous the material/finish....the better the oil will hold. (polished micarta doesn't need it as much as bead-blasted does)

 

[biogon]

Hmm... thanks, Dan!

Guess I better go look for some oil made of babies who smell less like flowers!*

-j

 

[cybrok]

Dan

It's basically the scales or a RD6 and a RAT-3 I removed to strip them. I'll simply put them back the way they were before.

 

[stevomiller]

Hmm, that's interesting. I too have used mineral oil on natural materials with good luck. I was just concerned with long term affects on the adhesives and binders. Thx for sharing.

 

[Daniel Koster]

I have been oiling my kitchen knives with it for 3-4 years with it now...with no noticeable affect on the adhesives. I can't say it will never happen (I'm not a chemist) but it does not appear to have any affect.