Bead blasting question?

Joined
Jan 24, 2001
Messages
70
How far do you need to finish the blade if you are going to bead blast it?
What grit grind lines will the bead blast cover up?
Thanks
 
Alas HH, bead blasting is not the shortcut some folks seem to think it is. Bead blasting won't cover up anything, it actually highlights deep scratches more. I use ceramic beads as suggested by Kit carson and finish the blade thru my usual 600 grit belt. It's along the same lines as a hand sanded finish. You take the blade thru 600 or 800 or I've even heard of folks that go all the way up to 1500 grit, and then you go back to the 320-400 grit final finish.
 
It would depend on what grit and type of blast media you are using.The courser the media the more it will "cover up".Imo,bead/sand should not be used to cover up,but just to provide a non glare finish. I go to a minimum of 320 grit before I blast,on those rare occasions that I do.
 
Michael, were did you purchase the ceramic beads? What size did you buy, and do you mix them with glass beads? Thanks!
 
Andrew, the brand name is Zirblast. I got it from acompany in Cali but they come from Sweden. I don't know what grit hey are or if they even have a grit. I know I tried glass beads and they would't touch heat treated ats34 but this ceramic leaves a real nice matte grey finish, almost like a parkerized finished. I'll ask Kit tonight what he contact info is on the company. Stuff aint cheap though, 5 pounds was almost $190.:D
 
Andrew,
The ceramic bead is made in France and I get it from Fusco Abrasives in LA (800-899-3872). It's call SEPR, Zirblast, B60 (grit size). It takes much less pressure to blast and there is almost no dust in the cabinet. It doesn't break up like glass does and leaves a dimpled finish, instead of a cut finish. The finish has to be 400-600 grit or polished as it doesn't hide any grind marks. It costs about $160 for a 25 kilo can (58 pounds) and it will last me 6-9 months with all the blasting I do.

One suggestion, split it with another maker or two. I think L6 did that.
 
Thanks for the information guys. I have been using glass beads with only fair results. Now all I need is some more money. Maybe I need to post some pictures of knives I have for sale; I mean that I sold. :D
 
Hi all, I use a wore-out 400 carbrundim belt then a quick dip in ferric cloride to set up the finish, then just bead blast for color. Takes about 3or 4 mins and leaves a super-smooth satin finish quickly and it will take the logo nicely.
 
Mikes right Blasting dont cover anything. Kit turned me on to ceramic peening. It peens the surface and will not cover a damned thing!
Thanks Kit!
 
Does the ceramic peening give the same matte gray effect we see on the Emerson handmades (are the dimples so small that they don't look like peen marks), for example, or is it different? I've heard that peening also has better corrosion resistance (as opposed to blasting), does anyone know if that's true? Thanks.
 
Thanks, Darrel:)

When I was testing the ceramic bead several years ago, I had my son take some samples to where he works and MicroView them. He looked at glass bead, silica sand, Alu oxide, and the ceramic. The first three left a "cut" finish with jagged edges, kinds like a star or snowflake. The ceramic left small indentations similar to the shot peening of older times.
If you are coating a blade, ceramic is not the way to go. Nothing for the coating to bond to. We use Alu oxide for a cut finish before powder coating.
One of the things I really like about it is the near match when blasting blade steel, Ti liners, and Ti bolsters, or stainless steel bolsters. They all look the same in color and texture.
I've blasted A2 and D2 with this stuff and had less problem with oxidation that with a satin finish.
 
Back
Top