Bearings, Ball detent, & Lock bar - What I think I learned.

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Nov 20, 2016
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Now that I have my first Shirogorov (Neon Ultra Lite), I want every knife I have to have, the same, or close to the same action. By action I mean easy fast deployment and being able to do a drop close after the detent. For some reason I had it in my head that the main bearing or washer are what needed attention. So on several knives of mine, I was able to pull apart the knife, clean everything, re-relub with nano oil, and adjust the pin tightness. Most of the knives improved enough to warrant the effort.

My Boker Kwaiken was really smooth already but for closing one handed I either had to flick it down or move the knife body violently enough to get gravity or inertia to help it close. So I thought lets fix this. I also had this brilliant? idea that if I polish all of the surfaces that the bearings and ball detent touch that this would make it even better.

I pulled it apart and used my diamond and Chosera stones or fine sandpaper to get flat polished surfaces where ever bearings or ball detents touch. After several attempts and at least the loss of 2 ball bearings ( I am hating IKBS systems for this). I got it together and it actually was a bit worse than before. #$@&%^!

It then occurred to me that my sanding probably erased any smoothed over parts of the steel liner or blade that the bearings or ball detent had created. On top of that when i held the lock bar back the blade was swinging like there was no friction. Ah Ha!

The ball detent on the lock bar is the dominant factor in the movement of the blade. I pulled it apart again and adjusted how far the lock bar went in but still get a good lock. Tried that and I got it back to where it was when I started. I would have thought that the polishing for the blade tang, where the ball detent tracks, would have made things better. But maybe the micro groove that was there before, from use, was more favorable to each movement.

Thoughts?
 
I have come to the same conclusion. I replaced steel bearings in one of my ZTs with ceramic versions, lubed evrything with nanolube... no difference. Then I held the lock bar out of the way so the detent ball was not making contact, and the blade falls like there is almost no friction. So the resistance is primarily the detent ball friction on the blade surface.
 
Definitely. First thing to check is how the blade swings without the lockbar action. If it's freely, go for the lockbar. If it's not, go for the pivot and surroundings. That's how I fixed my second hand Sebenza action.


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