Becker BK2 Sharpening and Maintenance

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Mar 9, 2011
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236
I am curious what sharpeners work well for the BK2 that are relatively cheap (<$50). I want something that I will be able to use without much experience in sharpening knives. Another thing I was curious about was how you maintain your guys' knives? I already understand Sheriff125 has a recent thread that is very similar, however, I have limited money and am not very experienced in this part of knives. Any help from you Becker fanatics would be greatly appreciated! :D
 
For under $50 or just little over, depends where you buy it, you could get a Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker. Easy sharpener to use with very little learning curve. If your willing to spend $20 more you can get a Worksharp knife and tool sharpener and that's even easier then the Spyderco sharpmaker. I use them both.
 
Find a decent stone and a ceramic steel, thats what I use and it works great....
 
know tracker needed, is good to learn how to sharpen knives without a guide....
 
I am curious what sharpeners work well for the BK2 that are relatively cheap (<$50). I want something that I will be able to use without much experience in sharpening knives. Another thing I was curious about was how you maintain your guys' knives? I already understand Sheriff125 has a recent thread that is very similar, however, I have limited money and am not very experienced in this part of knives. Any help from you Becker fanatics would be greatly appreciated! :D

I can't help in much else but I am sure I can help you here!
First let me advise you to disregard all postings that portray hand sharpening as a mystical science that requires superhuman skills. All you need is a firm hand, a good eye and a bit of practice and you can get that bk2 shaving hair off your arm in no time.
I went to my home depot and purchased a double sided norton stone, the cheapest one for around $4. The darker side was hoarse while the more grayish side was fine.
Since this was an oil stone, it required the use of some kind of mineral oil for it to work properly. Here you can even use WD40. I personally didn't want the ugly taste of WD40 on my blade since I intended to use it for cooking, and chose instead to pick up a norton brand mineral oil, which was right in the same section at HomeDepot and leaves no taste or smell on the blade. This was around $4 as well.
With those two things, an old towel underneath the stone, and generous amounts of oil (you must soak your stone first), I was able to get a pretty good edge on my blade, close to how it was when it came from the factory.
I was however not satisfied and wanted more, so after much research I ended up purchasing a lansky spider stone for around $8 bucks at amazon, which not only gave the edge an amazing finish, but was also small enough to carry onto the field to maintain the super fine edge. THAT WAS A KILLER COMBO!
You must keep in mind that the lansky sharpener is water based and could be ruined if it soaks up too much oil, so you must clean any residue from your blade when you're done using the norton stone and wash your lansky stone after every use if possible.
Now here are a few tricks that I've learned to get a hair shaving edge:

1- Make sure that you prepare your stone and use plenty of oil.
2- Use a forward motion instead of a trailing motion, as if you were cutting a slice off the stone. If you trail, you create a burrow which might trick you into thinking you have a good edge. Trailing motion reduces dramatically edge retention and isn't very forgiving with the angles. By using the forward motion you give your blade better support, thus lasting longer.
3- Make sure to start your motion where the edge and the stone meet. You may have to look carefully before every pass to calibrate the right angle. This is ok to do, at least until you have developed the skills and the confidence to do it by memory.
4- Use an old leather belt to strop your blade.
5- Practice!


That's how I got my BK2 with hair shaving edge for under $20!
I hope this helps.
 
Good post dallastxco.

90% of the time I just use my ceramic steel to touch up my blades, it takes alot of hard use to destroy a edge on 1095 IMO.
 
I can't help in much else but I am sure I can help you here!
First let me advise you to disregard all postings that portray hand sharpening as a mystical science that requires superhuman skills. All you need is a firm hand, a good eye and a bit of practice and you can get that bk2 shaving hair off your arm in no time.
I went to my home depot and purchased a double sided norton stone, the cheapest one for around $4. The darker side was hoarse while the more grayish side was fine.
Since this was an oil stone, it required the use of some kind of mineral oil for it to work properly. Here you can even use WD40. I personally didn't want the ugly taste of WD40 on my blade since I intended to use it for cooking, and chose instead to pick up a norton brand mineral oil, which was right in the same section at HomeDepot and leaves no taste or smell on the blade. This was around $4 as well.
With those two things, an old towel underneath the stone, and generous amounts of oil (you must soak your stone first), I was able to get a pretty good edge on my blade, close to how it was when it came from the factory.
I was however not satisfied and wanted more, so after much research I ended up purchasing a lansky spider stone for around $8 bucks at amazon, which not only gave the edge an amazing finish, but was also small enough to carry onto the field to maintain the super fine edge. THAT WAS A KILLER COMBO!
You must keep in mind that the lansky sharpener is water based and could be ruined if it soaks up too much oil, so you must clean any residue from your blade when you're done using the norton stone and wash your lansky stone after every use if possible.
Now here are a few tricks that I've learned to get a hair shaving edge:

1- Make sure that you prepare your stone and use plenty of oil.
2- Use a forward motion instead of a trailing motion, as if you were cutting a slice off the stone. If you trail, you create a burrow which might trick you into thinking you have a good edge. Trailing motion reduces dramatically edge retention and isn't very forgiving with the angles. By using the forward motion you give your blade better support, thus lasting longer.
3- Make sure to start your motion where the edge and the stone meet. You may have to look carefully before every pass to calibrate the right angle. This is ok to do, at least until you have developed the skills and the confidence to do it by memory.
4- Use an old leather belt to strop your blade.
5- Practice!


That's how I got my BK2 with hair shaving edge for under $20!
I hope this helps.

Wow, this helps alot man. I am not really sure on all of it but it definitely is a good start. If you find a video of someone doing it or you end up making one let me know. It would be ALOT of help. I'm more of a person that learns when they see it done! :) Thank you so much though
 
I swap back and forth between a DMT diamond stone and sandpaper/leather. It's great steel and takes a great edge.

---

Beckerhead #42
 
I use a small a 1200 diamond stone and a leather strop impregnated with Formax micro fine green compound. Both are easily carried in the field and can get 1095 to shave hair with no problem.

BTW The strop was homemade using an old belt and a 5 gallon paint stir stick. The diamond stone was around $10 and the compound $8 for a big bar, a life time supply really.
 
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Wow, this helps alot man. I am not really sure on all of it but it definitely is a good start. If you find a video of someone doing it or you end up making one let me know. It would be ALOT of help. I'm more of a person that learns when they see it done! :) Thank you so much though

Youtube- Knife sharpening
 
Clean it and oil it after you've taken it out on the field. Oiling the non-coated areas every now and then should keep it in perfect shape. I would think once every year if you're not using the blade.
Thank you everyone for your responses. What about oiling the blade?
 
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