Bedding hidden tang

Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Messages
2
Hey guys first time posting here. I have a question for the group. I've seen some hidden tang handles with no pin holding it. Now I know the epoxy is doing 95 percent of the work but I've come to understand that if you bed the tang a pin isn't adding or really necessary to the handle strength. Thoughts or experiences?
 
A pin shouldn't be necessary. Example: a Marble's Campcraft (52100 steel, from Mike Stewart's era there) with micarta grip, no pin, and unlikely ever to come loose unless you boiled it for half an hour or so. My BIL has used it for 20+ years with no problem.
 
Are there locking features (notches, etc.) for the epoxy to "grip"? Current epoxy technology is crazy. It could be stronger than the handle material used in some applications.
 
Are there locking features (notches, etc.) for the epoxy to "grip"? Current epoxy technology is crazy. It could be stronger than the handle material used in some applications.
Like this ? I make notches sometimes but i think that they are not necessary , coarse sand paper is enough . I recently changed the handle on one knife, a difficult task. If I have to change a handle again, I will use a belt grinder to grind wood , the hammer doesn't help much.

jY9NF3Z.jpg
 
Pin when you can. Nothing beats pinned, screwed or bolted on. Hidden tangs should be notched as the example above simply because it will fill the notches with epoxy and provide the best possible grip with a non pinned tang. Regardless of what anyone says a mechanical attachment is the best except where a tang is very small and a pin hole may compromise the integrity of the tang.
 
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