Beeswax on axe and hawk hafts?

mkdeerslayer · Mar 13, 2015

I was wondering if any of you finish your hafts with beeswax after staining and applying tung oil or blo? If so, do you use pure beeswax or one of the beeswax/orange oil mixtures they sell for furniture? I've never applied pure beeswax but it was recommended to me by a guy who makes Tommy's and seems to really have a knack for bringing out the beauty in the hafts he uses. Any suggestions on which kind of beeswax formula and the process you use? I appreciate anyone's advice and help!

JayGoliath · Mar 13, 2015

I use layers of tung oil and finish it with Obernaufs.

jblyttle · Mar 13, 2015

I use a couple of layers of BLO then finish it with a mix of BLO/turpentine/beeswax. I mix mine so that it is soft to the touch in the jar, like room temperature butter. Creamy.

I like the look of the orange product and I'm sure that it smels nice, but every time I think that I want to buy it, I realize that my mix costs 1/4 as much by volume. And, when I make some up it lasts a long time.

Remzy · Mar 13, 2015

maybe its just me but i wouldnt treat my handle with beeswax so that i can apply more blo later on, wax would only hinder the absorbtion of the oil an still let the handle dry out.

I dont believe you can treat a handle once and forget about it the rest of your life, its a preservation game and wax doesnt seem to be part of the solution, IMO.

mkdeerslayer · Mar 13, 2015

Thanks guys.....I appreciate everyone's input!

garry3 · Mar 13, 2015

I thought almost everyone used it. :thumbup:

smith357 · Mar 14, 2015

I use a mix of beeswax and lemon with an evaporating oil like BLO or pure Tung. It sits in an old crock pot on the bench. I use it on wood, leather, muzzle loaders, and for fuel.

mkdeerslayer · Mar 14, 2015

Smith357.....that's an interesting concoction. Kind of like and all in one kinda finish! That certainly cuts down on the some of the steps of doing those all individually! I'm curious, do you measure all the ingredients in specific amounts or just kinda guesstimate? Do you use that over stained hafts or as a sort of stain and finish unto itself? Cool idea and would like to no more and maybe see some of the finished wood projects you've used it on!

smith357 · Mar 14, 2015

mkdeerslayer said:
I'm curious, do you measure all the ingredients in specific amounts or just kinda guesstimate? Do you use that over stained hafts or as a sort of stain and finish unto itself? Cool idea and would like to no more and maybe see some of the finished wood projects you've used it on!

I use rough guestimates, basically it's one part oil with about 1/2 part of grated lemon peel in my little crock let it essential oils cook out of the peel for a while, then add about 2-3 parts beeswax, when it hardens up to room temp 70F it is about the consistency of shoe polish. I melt this mixture, warm the item I'm treating, and then slather it on with a paint brush and let it soak in. For wood I rub it down with a green scrubby as it cools.

A before and after of an old TT Tomahawk.

I've dipped sheaths, holsters, and boots but don't have pictures of them, and I always clean it off my smoke poles before I photograph them, it gets packed into every nook and crannie.

mkdeerslayer · Mar 14, 2015

WOW! What a difference! I'm definitely going to jot your recipe down and give it a try on one of my hawks and I have a couple sledge hammers of different sizes that could use some of that TLC for sure! Have you ever had any issues with putting that mixture on any wood that was newly stained? I mean as far as the stain color changing or being affected in any way other than desired effects? Thanks a bunch for taking your time to respond with all the info and pics! They're much appreciated!

smith357 · Mar 14, 2015

No issues with alcohol or water based stains, with oil based as long as it is completely dry it should not be a problem. Be aware, it will add a yellow tint. Over the years I have used olive oil, and lanolin in place of the BLO and it works fine. Since it's also used with black powder it must be all natural and not contain any petrol based oils with long chain hydrocarbons that mix with BP residue to make tar.

The red on this haft is an alcohol stain and did not smear.

mkdeerslayer · Mar 15, 2015

Ok got it. Any yellowing should not be a problem as I typically like darker stains on tomahawk hafts and the hammers and axe handles just need to be conditioned and preserved. Thanks for all the info brother! I'm really enjoying learning new tricks ways of doing things on this forum.

ICS · Mar 16, 2015

What's wrong with leaving it natural. I have always found that if you use it enough, the sweat from your hands colours it up nicely.

druid189 · Mar 16, 2015

mkdeerslayer said:
I was wondering if any of you finish your hafts with beeswax after staining and applying tung oil or blo? If so, do you use pure beeswax or one of the beeswax/orange oil mixtures they sell for furniture? I've never applied pure beeswax but it was recommended to me by a guy who makes Tommy's and seems to really have a knack for bringing out the beauty in the hafts he uses. Any suggestions on which kind of beeswax formula and the process you use? I appreciate anyone's advice and help!

this is good for EVERYTHING:

1 lb pure beeswax [yellow or white]
8 oz turpentine
8 oz boiled linseed oil.

Melt wax into a large metal coffee can, add turp and linseed oil.

Stir well until it starts to paste up and let it set up overnight. It turns into a "pudding" consistency.

Using a latex glove or a rag or a paintbrush - Rub it into canvas/cloth, leather, wood, whatever - and then use a heat gun on low / hair dryer on high to get it to soak in. For wood, you can do it twice.

If you use a rag, make sure you dispose of it properly. Linseed has that "spontaneous combustion" thing that you don't want to happen. I've never had it happen to me though, I don't use cloths to apply it.

Oxbow · Mar 16, 2015

druid189 said:
this is good for EVERYTHING:

1 lb pure beeswax [yellow or white]
8 oz turpentine
8 oz boiled linseed oil.

Melt wax into a large metal coffee can, add turp and linseed oil.

Stir well until it starts to paste up and let it set up overnight. It turns into a "pudding" consistency.

Using a latex glove or a rag or a paintbrush - Rub it into canvas/cloth, leather, wood, whatever - and then use a heat gun on low / hair dryer on high to get it to soak in. For wood, you can do it twice.

If you use a rag, make sure you dispose of it properly. Linseed has that "spontaneous combustion" thing that you don't want to happen. I've never had it happen to me though, I don't use cloths to apply it.

I like to use the empty paint cans you can get in most paint departments, they seal airtight so the turpentine does gas out of the mix before you use it. I also tend you use about half as much turpentine as BLO and get good results, but there's a lot of wiggle room with recipes like this.

idaho_crosscut · Mar 19, 2015

Remzy said:
maybe its just me but i wouldnt treat my handle with beeswax so that i can apply more blo later on, wax would only hinder the absorbtion of the oil an still let the handle dry out.

I dont believe you can treat a handle once and forget about it the rest of your life, its a preservation game and wax doesnt seem to be part of the solution, IMO.

So are you saying that wax is part of the precipitate?

EdgyGator · Mar 19, 2015

I've used it on chisel handles. However, I tend to go cheap and buy the toilet seal rings...