Beginner Belt Sander?

Joined
Apr 6, 2001
Messages
2,632
Ok, time to bother you guys again.
I am currently building the “College Bachelor’s knife makers dream: In an efficacy apartment”. Slowly but surely I will get better tools. Right now I am curious if you could use a standard $50-$75 hand held belt sander, clamped upside down on a work bench, to help grind knives? Do online stores sell the 4”x18” belts for these things? (I also plan on hooking up my canaster vaccuum on the end so that I dont donate a lung to the cause.)
Suggestions?
I am now looking cause I see trouble when going from files and grinders directly to elbow grease.
I know I will be going through belts like nobody’s business, but I plan on starting small and working up to “My Dream” (Which is still a work in progress).
 
First off, I'm rather spoiled for a college student and have a nice sized 860 sq. ft apt to myself. Which to be even better, for now, is on end of building and apt. next to mine is vacant, so no complaints about noise.

But my starting grinder which I've used for 3 complete knives now and starting on three more(well, one of those is even complete for the steel grinding, just needs handle and sheath), is the little 1x30" belt grinder/5" disc sander from HF. Obviously, there are much better things I could be using for my gridning, but it does get the job done. Jus thave it mounted onto an old end table I took home from work when we got new furniture. And do my drilling on a cabinet I brought home from work, which is also what my tv/stereo are on. ;) HF also has inexpensive table top drill presses which would help you. Plan on getting one of those too, sometime here.

And for what it's worth, my first knife sale will be sometime this week. blade is ground, edge quenched and triple tempered. Just need to mount and grind(or grind, mount and then finish grind) the micarta and pins,a nd sew up a sheath for it.
 
SamuraiDave,

I tried the belt sander in the vice trick. Don't do it.

It can work for a few things, but because you can't really roll the belt over the platen, you can't get a good plunge cut and other things.

However, the biggest problem you'll have (and I did) is the screeching, piericing loudness of the thing. Man will it make the ears hurt. The neighbors will pound down the door or shut off your power, before you're half done with the first bevel.

Steve
 
Although I know yall call it the next best thing to crap, I think I am leaning towards either the HF stuff or attempting to make my own. There is a thread I found somewhere that spoke of using a lawnmower wheel, and I know I will have a fun time checking out junkyards for motors. Maybe I can fix it up to be a multi speed job???

(My famous words from the gunshop) "Yall are going to get me in trouble!"

Oh yeah, belts...where can I get'em? I will want to know so that I can figure out how small/large I should make this thing. Was the suggestion for a beginning sander 2"x72"?
 
Well I couldn't tell you how much nicer it'd be to have a variable speed 2x72 ($$$$). But, I'm quite happy with the sears 2x42 (1 hp). The machine itself is quiet, but grinding is grinding.

I too was looking for a cheaper grinder to start. I looked at the HF 4" and 6" belt/disc machines. Folks here steered me away from belts that wide. It'll work and many guys use them, but the wider the belt the more pressure required to cut. Everybody says 2" is optimal for most work.

As far as belts goes here's your man:

http://www.geocities.com/discount_abrasives/index.html

Any size you want, any kind. Fast and friendly.

But if I were in your shoes I'd consider using diamond files and paper. Then a drill press with rubber sanding wheels for shaping handles and blade blanks. I also use the drill press with diamond sanding wheels for shaping inside curves on the steel. I think I could get along with a hacksaw, files, and a drill press.

Let's see what do I use the drill press for?

Shaping Steel
Sanding the finished edges on the steel.
Fitting the handles
Shaping handles
I attach buffing wheels and polish (Please be careful with that one), because I can adjust the speed real slow and safe.
Oh yeah I drill holes too.

I do lots of time on the belt grinder and wouldn't go without it. But I think I could do all that with files. (Check out Knife & Gun finishing supplies for diamond files. A set of 4 coarse files is $22.)


Just food for thought.

Steve
 
I've been using my 3x18" belt sander mounted in my vice and it sure beats doing it by hand. Of course a real setup would be 1000% better but for getting tool marks out it works. When I wet the belt it cuts better- I know I flirt with shorting out the sander though. I too have been eyeing those cheap drill presses at HF.
 
For my $.02 I would go with the $200 Sears.
Used one for a year or two, not the best but
works good enough Belts at Super Grit good price.
But hey what do I know
 
Hey Sylvester!

Is this true? Can I get 2X42 belts for my Sears grinder from Super Grit? This would be excellent news as I am tired of the high price and small selection of belt grits available for this grinder at Sears. I have used this grinder for 5 years and I'm really happy with it. It is not high powered nor is it heavy duty but for a part timer like myself with limited space it fills the bill perfectly in my basement workshop.

You don't happen to have an address for Super Grit handy, do ya? Do they have a website?

Thanks for the help,
Brian
 
Yep!!1 1/800/822/4003
2x42" 24 to 40 grit= $2.75 50 to 100 grit= $2.50
120 to 220= $2.25 add 10% for zirconia or ceramic
220 to 600 in silico cabide= $18.00 for 10
3m 60 mic.poly $2.50 ea.
Cork 180 to 600 $5.00?

The brown AO belts are cheaper

Super Grit= Red Hill Corporation
1540 Biglerville Rd
Gettysburg, Pa. 17325

E Mail= redhill@innernet.net
 
Just a plug for HF stuff - I have lots of HF tools and think they are great value for the money. I've been using my benchtop HF drill press for almost 15 years and it's as good as the day I bought it. I have two HF lathes, all manner of hand tools and dremel accessories, clamps, gloves... And I'm nowhere near done yet. There are some things you can't get there like a 2X72 belt grinder or a decent clamping kit, but they have a lot of great stuff. I'm lucky to have a HF store locally...well they're lucky to have me! The metal cutting bandsaw will change your life. Put that at the top of your "get it" list.

If you decide you're going to keep doing this, buy a good variable speed 2X72 grinder. Set up right it'll be about two grand and it'll be the best two grand you ever spent on tools. Check out Rob Frink's Beaumont Metal Works first.

Guess that's more information than you were looking for. :D

Dave
 
Let me add a few things here guys. You do not need a high priced, high powered machine to turn out a well made knife. Have made and sold several knives, using files and discs in a drill. I now use a 1X42, that has been heavily modified. The machine is set up for 4 speeds, with pulleys. Had to put a back brace on the platen, to keep it totally rigid and have added pyroceramic glass to the platen. The machine can use several different size belts, 36", 42/44, 48", and 60". I can get the grits I need to do mirror finish and beyond. It will take you longer to make a blade on this machine than a 2X72, but if you are doing this as a hobby or part-time, who needs the speed. I have been using this machine for 5 years now, have about $75.00 total investment in it.
Ken (wwjd)
 
I had the same question 2 weeks ago. A fellow suggested that I look at building a sander/ grinder for about 50 bucks or less. Its portable and storable. go to http://beaumontmetalworks.com The will have instructions for building a grinder out of wood. looks real easy to do You can buy the wheels from them if you want.
I think that thats what I am going to do. I have the motor and plenty of 1 inch ply. As for the wheels I havent decided yet but the gotta be true if they are slanted then your paper will not stay on.
Good luck
Jack
 
Gotta step in and add my recommendation to go to Harbor Freight. I bought their $168.00 metal cutting bandsaw and am extremely pleased that I spent that money. It sure makes doing runs of the same blade profile EASY.:D
The 2"x42" Sears grinder is a great starter grinder if you plan on doing flat, saber or convex grinding. I like the fact that it is fairly quiet running and is strong enough to hog off steel PDQ.
I started with the Sears 1"x42". It gets the job done and is more suited for the hobbyist on a budget. I still have that grinder 10 years later and it still earns it's keep in my shop.
Probably the best birthday gift I ever got.:D

All the best,
Mike U.
 
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