Beginner Bevel/HT also first knife pic

Joined
Mar 12, 2019
Messages
26
Hey All,

First time posting. It was on my bucket list to make a knife, and now has turned into another obsession.

First here's the pics of my first try
W4J6VZZ.jpg


juZI4AS.jpg


g63XGZz.jpg



It has its flaws but I'm pretty proud of it.

#1
So here's my questions. I've been struggling to get a straight line when I do a close to full grind. Its great up until past 50% of the way. I'm using a bevel jig and trying to slowing to take little off at a time, but it starts to curve upward? I wish I got a pic yesterday before I went to freehand and ruined another knife. When you pull the knife across the grinder is it more of a straight pull? Or do you tend to follow with a tiny curve pull to the tip to follow the bevel? I hope that makes sense. I know its practice, and I've watched almost every video on youtube already. Just looking for tips.

#2
After struggling with this I built a file jig to grind the bevel myself. It was actually going pretty good but halfway I realized how am I going to finish this off after HT. Surprisingly theres alot of videos of people showing on how to build these jigs, and file with them but everyone stops at that. I can't pop it back in and file it after HT. Sanding it would be ridiculous as I'd be there for a week. And at this point if im going back to the grinder, I might as well start at it. I'll never match the angle perfectly and my crisp lines will be gone. So I'm confused on that part.

#3
This was a done by a file on my jig. Where the bevel comes up it kinda curves upward too much. To change the angle of this to be like the red mark I made, does it have to do with grinding the line little by little the way I want? Or the placement of the actual knife in the jig? Does it have to be turned more? I guess it would change the plunge line as well?

#4 I've been using 1080 steel for everything. I built a mini forge with 2 propane tanks. Its been successful every time. I just ordered some 1095 steel because its just a better deal. Is the HT basically the same between both?

sp7k3T3.jpg


Anyways, thanks for any tips. I understand it takes practice and I have alot more steel coming. I will practice freehand next, but wanted to get this down first. Sorry my post is all over the place.
 
I can't answer your questions or give tips, because I'm new myself, but wanted to say that's a very nice looking knife. I'd be proud as hell to turn that out as my first. Where'd you get the scales? I love the wood/resin look.
 
I can't answer your questions or give tips, because I'm new myself, but wanted to say that's a very nice looking knife. I'd be proud as hell to turn that out as my first. Where'd you get the scales? I love the wood/resin look.
Thanks! I made the scales. I''ve been woodworking for quite sometime and just started to get into a resin work on the side so it worked out greatly when I decided its time to start metal working lol.
 
Thanks! I made the scales. I''ve been woodworking for quite sometime and just started to get into a resin work on the side so it worked out greatly when I decided its time to start metal working lol.
That's awesome! I've always like contrasting handle colors like that.
 
Beautiful job on your first knife.
Regarding straightening the grind lines: I have taken some cheap mild steel and practiced the grind for a piece I'm planning. One issue is to at least get flat stock for this as some of the mild steel you might buy to practice on can be pretty sloppy. I also found it useful to go to a slightly higher grit (say 120 instead of 60), and practice light passes, applying different pressures that will straighten or correct the grind (raising the height at the plunge for example). Removing material a bit more slowly with the higher grit, you will start to see the consequence of what you are doing.

One problem I ran into with this is that I'm totally relaxed on the practice piece and then start making mistakes on the real piece...
Anyway, all you can do is keep getting experience and trying to understand what is happening as you go.
 
The HT is similar for 1080 and 1095. The biggest thing is that 1095 needs a soak for around 5-10 minutes and it should get tighter temperature control. Both need a fast quenchant. Canola will work heated to around 120F. A better option is getting a pail of Parks #50. Parks is used at room temp ( 50-100F).
Show us some photos of your forge.

BTW, a muffle pipe in the forge helps when doing HT that requires a soak time. It is a suitable length of 2" heavy wall black iron, or stainless, pipe. It sits in the forge and you stick the knife blade inside it.
If you have a Type K TC and PID readout, stick the TC in the pipe with the blade.
 
The HT is similar for 1080 and 1095. The biggest thing is that 1095 needs a soak for around 5-10 minutes and it should get tighter temperature control. Both need a fast quenchant. Canola will work heated to around 120F. A better option is getting a pail of Parks #50. Parks is used at room temp ( 50-100F).
Show us some photos of your forge.

BTW, a muffle pipe in the forge helps when doing HT that requires a soak time. It is a suitable length of 2" heavy wall black iron, or stainless, pipe. It sits in the forge and you stick the knife blade inside it.
If you have a Type K TC and PID readout, stick the TC in the pipe with the blade.
Thanks. Actually I've been heating the oil to 130 and using canola oil. Its been working great so far. I will look into getting a pipe. Right now my forge consists of 5 fire bricks just making a small 5 inch opening and I have 2 propane torches on the side. It has to soak for 5-10 min at 1500 degrees? I guess I'll look up some videos on it to watch it being done.

I was thinking about getting this, or just making one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Propane-Fo...160084?hash=item213ae755d4:g:CTEAAOSwdkZbIG9b

Also I'll look into getting gauge for the temp.

Thanks!
 
#1
So here's my questions. I've been struggling to get a straight line when I do a close to full grind. Its great up until past 50% of the way. I'm using a bevel jig and trying to slowing to take little off at a time, but it starts to curve upward? I wish I got a pic yesterday before I went to freehand and ruined another knife. When you pull the knife across the grinder is it more of a straight pull? Or do you tend to follow with a tiny curve pull to the tip to follow the bevel? I hope that makes sense. I know its practice, and I've watched almost every video on youtube already. Just looking for tips.
If you fixed blade in your jig this way ...you will get blue line after grinding bevel
CEh01pb.jpg
 
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