Beginner Grinding Q's

E

ErikD

Joined
Dec 5, 2000
Messages
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I am/have been trying to get started making some knives in my spare time. I have a blank that I have been trying to grind out, and am having a bit of a problem. One side is coming out decent enough, nothing to brag about really, but you can make out a distinct plunge cut and a primary bevel. On the other side I have been working but can't get either to become really distinct and noticable.

I am right handed, and as I grind the right side of the knife (when looking at it from the tip) I can get the plunge cut and primary bevel set. When going on the other side I am not really getting much of anything, just removing metal and making a very blended kind of result.

Is this just a case where I need to work more on grinding on my weak side? Is there any kind of trick I can use to help me improve before grinding a ton of steel? TIA.
 
What helped me the most was using layout fluid to make the whole blade blue. That way when I grind I make the blue go up as each pass gets higher and higher. Too high too fast and you are trying to take away too much at once. Try regular spray paint. WEAR A resperator!!

Also, what sort of grinder sdo you have?
 
Currently I am using one of those Craftsman 2x42 belt grinders. Not really perfect, but a huge step up from the 1x30 Delta that I started out with. I have added a hardened and flat platen generously made for me by L6Steel.

Also how can I get into all those tight radious bends, you know those that are smaller than the wheel, or in other words pretty much and inside bend? I have tried using the edge of the belt and just ended up shredding the belt.
 
Eric,
When all I had was a Craftsman GRinder I wrapped 60 grit sandpaper around a dowel that matched the inside curve and went to town. SAve up for a better grinder and they have a small wheel attachment that makes that a breeze! But thats down the road for you. You can get sanding drums in various sizes too. Chuck those in a drill. You may kill the drill though over a period of time.
 
Hmm, sounds like trying to grind out or even just smooth out an inside curve with a sanding drum chucked in a drill might be a pain. I think I will try using a Dremel first, probably be a bit easier since I got the flex shaft. Thanks for the idea though.

Guess I just need to get in here and keep practicing. I did just try again on that blade, and was able to get it to look a little bit better on the other side. Hopefully on the next one I will be able to do even better using the blue or paint to help guide me.
 
It's a common problem when first starting out. Grind as much with your weak hand as possible for practice, because that's what it takes, lots of practice.

You can get some lattice, or lathing strips from your local lumber yard, about 11/2" wide or so, and layout your desigs on those, and grind them like they were steel knives. Do everything, profile, center edge mark, and bevel grinding. Do the handle too. It will only require one 40-60 grit belt that will last a very long time on wood like that.
Practice grinding the bevels in those, starting on the side where you use your weak hand. Works, and it's cheap.

Use a light touch as it goes very fast in wood.
 
Erik,

Is this machine you have (Sears makes several models of 2X42 I think):
1ywun6


If so, it's very much like a Sears 1X30 I have. I use this machine for a lot of things and found it problematic for making plunges due to the design of it's platen.
The problem is due to how the sides of the platen are formed; they are just way to rounded IMO.
1yww9t

I modified mine by cutting off one side of the platen (I don't grind knives on it):
1ywwgl

A better fix, to grind knives, would be to attach another plate on the face of the platen so that you can track your belt to either side for grinding.

You might also want to consider using a file guide (works well with a grinder also) such as this
one from Kovals.

Regards,
Greg
 
i have a similar one and have never even thought of usuing it as a grinder. maybe now ill have better grind lines! gotta buys some alum-oxy belts first though!
 
Very good info about using the lattice for practice.
Trust me bro, this stuff takes PRACTICE. I just got a new BaderIII, and I can see this isn't going to happen overnight.
I found that grinder height is VERY important. You want to put your elbows close to your body, and kind of lock them in. Then, point your arms straight out, or slightly angled up. This may come down to personal preference, but let me say that I PERSONALLY have found that I like to angle my arms up just a little bit. Helps me see what I am doing better.
Also, lighting is important. Again, you need to see exactly what is going on. Also, when you are grinding, use your body to help move back and forth. In other words, don't flop your fingers and wrists all around. You need to kind of "lock" yourself in, and use your body.
Also, once you get some bevels/plunge lines going, you will begin to "feel" when you are in the groove, and when you are also MISSING (yuck!) the groove. Several big name makers told me that you can also HEAR when you are in the groove, and when you are missing, and they are RIGHT!
Anyhow, I am by no means an expert, but am passing on to you, what other pros have told me, and have found to be true.
Believe me, I need all the help I can get too.
I'm doing this alone in my shop, without anyone around that knows what they are doing, to help.
I've been praying to find someone who really knows how to grind, to hang out with. I swear I could get really good at this, if i could just find someone that knows how to grind, to observe in person for a while. Anybody in GA that knows how to grind want to come show me thing or two on a new BaderIII? Hehe.
Good luck bro, keep us posted!
 
when you use the edge of your platen to grind those tight inside lines are you tracking your belt off the edge a little? I usually take a new belt, track it off on either side and use some scrap mild steel and round the sides over quite hard, if it's going to break on me then that should do it, if not then you should be good to go. This also helps me control how fast the plung lines are cut, with the belt almost dull it takes a little longer for me to screw things up! ;)
I'm using a crappy craftsman grinder too and I've been able to adapt to it's flaws a little.
It sure will be nice to see that KMG someday tho...
hope that helps, even a little, Steve.
 
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