Beginner Sharpener -what setup would you choose?

[Kerneldrop]

So, before jumping into an Edge Pro Apex, KME, Wicked Edge, etc guided system...do most continue to use those guided systems over time or do they become too time-consuming and too tedious to setup, with folks just end up going to freehand or an electric solution? Or is one guided system or electric system preferred over another? I don't have the skill, but here's what I have currently: Norton 220, 1k, & Naniwa 1k, 5k, 8k,12k, English Bridle strop w/ webbed fabric backing.

I imagine this is like recommending a handgun or rifle to someone, but what setup is generally most ideal for sharpening...a setup that has the likelihood of being used over the long run?
I read a post where a member mostly uses a coffee mug. Some use stones, some use a guided system, some love the Sharpmarker, others like the Worksharp.
I was left with there might not be a one-size-fits-all answer and the simple goal of a sharper blade can become pretty complicated on here.
I'm not looking to compete or use a device to measure blade sharpness
I like to buy once cry once, within reason. My only hobby is benchrest and you have to pay to play in that arena.

Maybe it makes the most sense to learn freehand since I might have all or most of what i need.
(I got all that from Straight Razor Design when I thought I wanted to get into straight razors...yes, indeed. I didn't get much of a return on that investment)

And then there's a guy with a mobile sharpening business near me that'll sharpen for $4. But where's the fun in that...

Thank you

 

[Blues]

If you are willing to put the time in and learn to use what you already have, you're in pretty darn good shape.

Lots of instruction available in the threads here and youtube videos. The effort has to come from you.

Practice on old or inexpensive knives before putting your more valuable blades to the hones.

It is a very rewarding skill to have.

 

[Bill3152]

If your like me and your knives started out in really bad condition then a belt grinder would do it. I tried freehand and it seemed like it would take forever. Anyway once the knives are in good shape freehand is very easy. If by chance I got a knife that was in seriously bad condition I wouldn't hesitate to use the belt grinder.

 

[scottc3]

Kerneldrop, welcome to BF- I agree with Blues, that Norton 220 / 1K can go a long way to getting sharp edges, with the Naniwa and strop following up after you get proficient. If you want muscle memory training assistance, there are many angle guides available. The new-ish Gritomatic Hapstone T1 Adjustable Angle Guide for Knives has 4 reviews that must be read for understanding before purchasing, and will be what my kids will use to start their freehand journey away from guided systems, that were necessary when they were younger.
Like benchrest, once the rifle is trued up, trigger dialed in, and measurements taken, it is all about your reloads, documentation and practice. Sharpening is similar, your create an edge for that knife, document / remember the particulars, and simple quick edge maintenance keeps it sharp... until experience teaches you what you don't know enough to experiment with that knife's steel, geometry, and uses.
I started with a variety of stones, nothing fancy, back in the day, which served well for decades, came to use Sharpmaker's and KME as a father / teacher, and have no doubt that my sons should be able to sharpen tools in a variety of circumstance. No one uses Lee's first Loader kit for bench rest, but some started their journey with it.

 

[tinfoil hat timmy]

I like my 1x30 with belts of a nice grit progression

 

[Easyrider]

I am a big fan of both the Spyderco Sharpmaker and the Work Sharp, Ken Onion edition. You need to be careful with the Work Sharp since it is powered, easy to mess up a blade if you are not careful. To screw up a knife edge on the Spyderco Sharpmaker would take some determination.

 

[kreisler]

For beginners i recommend the Lansky. The most popluar system on amazon.

 

[Kerneldrop]

Thank you, all, for your replies.
I want to learn freehand anyways, especially since I have the stones.
I enjoy obtaining skills requiring a "feel" and heightened senses...so I think overtime I can get consistent.

There's also benefits in achieving results quickly, while practicing the freehand art. That's why a system like KME or the WSKO appealed to me, in addition to the stones.
I just didn't want to ignorantly shell out wasted money and get little return....I already have a bottomless pit hobby for that, ha
It seems that every system has it's pros and cons.

The Work Sharp Ken Onion edition seems pretty sweet. scottc3 - are you still using your WSKO?
tinfoil hat timmy - When I see 1x30, the redneck in me comes out and I immediately envision a trip to harbor freight for a 1x30 belt sander.

 

[Bill3152]

The harbor freight works great. And you will have many other uses for it. I think I paid about $50. Get a 220 grit belt and your done. The rest can be done freehand. I have the KOWS and it's sitting in the box. I didn't care for it. Jmo.

 

[cudgee]

I was left with there might not be a one-size-fits-all answer

There is no magic formula, there are many facets to factor in, what works for one does not necessarily translate to someone else.

There's also benefits in achieving results quickly,

Your first mistake, it takes TIME to get a desirable edge, even the most experienced sharpeners take their time. This is one skill where PATIENCE is a virtue.

It seems that every system has it's pros and cons.

Your are so correct, you seem to have a very good handle on what you want to achieve, but don't rush, and patience is your friend.

 

[MolokaiRider]

What kind of steels will you be sharpening?

 

[Kerneldrop]

What kind of steels will you be sharpening?

Folders under 4": D2, VG-10, S30V, M390, 154CM, AUS-8 (No crazy custom profiles mimicking a stealth bomber. Regular drop point, tanto, reverse tanto) (I thought I had an S35V...maybe not)

Like benchrest, once the rifle is trued up, trigger dialed in, and measurements taken, it is all about your reloads, documentation and practice. Sharpening is similar...

There are similarities for sure. Both require a practiced skill dependent on feel and awareness. You can buy the best equipment in the world, but you'll never learn to use it without time on the bench. Both depend on good steel...you can't make a bad barrel shoot good, and I figure you can't make poor knife steel perform well. The barrel's steel makeup, the way the barrel is machined and grooved, and its geometry affects how it performs. And kinda neat, you don't necessarily want the group that shoots the smallest...you want the group that shoots the best in poor conditions with a larger margin of error -- just like you might not want the sharpest blade as it might not perform the best in the field. No wonder I've always wanted to learn good sharpening, ha

Your first mistake, it takes TIME to get a desirable edge, even the most experienced sharpeners take their time. This is one skill where PATIENCE is a virtue.

As Blues mentioned earlier, this patience must lead to a very rewarding skill b\c the mobile sharpener down the road from me charging $4 does it purely for enjoyment.

Of course, I'm still at square one unsure of the next step to take...other than the obvious step of practice and having realistic expectations
I guess the question is...do I get a sharpening solution that compliments my benchstones, and which solution would that be.

 

[000Robert]

When I asked myself that question, I studied every system that I could find anything about. I also read many threads and comments about all of them. My main criteria was that the system not be dependent upon electricity to operate. I decided to go along with the "cry once" crowd and bought a Wicked Edge Pro Pack III that has the WE130. Then I added to it when I could afford to. I love it!

 

[cudgee]

I guess the question is...do I get a sharpening solution that compliments my benchstones, and which solution would that be.

This may be a solution, we can all waste money on sharpening equipment, i know i have, i put it down to experience, we sometimes rush into things without thinking, guilty here. This is what i would do if i was you, you already have some bench stones and want to improve your freehand sharpening, the closest guided sharpener to freehand in my opinion is the Edge-Pro Apex. It is a simple unit and works, but you still have to concentrate as you still have control of the knife and to some extent the angle of the bevel, and you can feel and hear the stones working, so it is a great learning system to help you improve your freehand. You can practice getting started on the Edge-Pro then going to your bench stones, it to me is a great learning curve system. But it may not be for you, get a clone model, you can get them for between 20-30 bucks, try it, if you like it and it helps, get the original. They have great back-up and customer service, and plenty of add on tools/attachments if you want to buy them. But don't spend money on something that you may not like or is not for you. That is what i would do, note i said i, have a look at the Edge-Pro website, and YouTube they have some good instructional videos out there, and see what you think. But which ever way you go, get yourself a LED pocket microscope, you can get a Carson 60x - 120x for about $20, they are invaluable, especially when learning, it will teach you so much about edge geometry, and you can see your progress or where you are going wrong, even looking at your stones, you can see the amount of metal in the actual cavities in the stone, they are an eye opener. Not having one is like painting a fence blindfolded, you think you know where you have painted but you cannot actually see where. Good luck, and just reach out if you need help, lots of good people and very experienced sharpeners here.

 

[bgentry]

I have probably spent more money on sharpening gear than on knives. My two most used sharpening systems are now my 1x42 belt sander and the SharpMaker. The 1x42 can be used on almost anything, but does require caution as it removes metal quickly. But it's not crazy quick where it's going to surprise you and just blow steel of in one second. But it's a power tool and must be treated like one.

I baby stepped into the 1x42 with a WorkSharp Ken Onion. I used the WSKO for something like 7 years before I finally had the space to put a belt sander and bought one. If I didn't have the space, I think I'd buy the WSKO and the Belt Grinding Attachment and use it like a little belt sander. That's kinda what I did anyway, using the regular belt assembly on the WSKO with the guides removed so just the belt was exposed. The BGA would make this better because the belt is more exposed, more straight up and down, and more designed for this type of use (freehand).

If power tools are out, then I recommend the coarsest stone you can afford in a system that you like. For me that's a DMT XXC. Other stones like this include the Coarse Crystolon and the Barynox Manticore. The coarse stone is the most important for a variety of reasons. See my 7 secrets article for more details.

If you decide to go big with the belt sander, you might also consider an angle guide. I really like the one I'm using, called the KallyRest. It's specifically designed for the Kalamazoo 1SM sander and it works well.

Brian.

 

[c7m2p3]

A lot of people will mention the sharpmaker and it is really a great tool but I dont recommend it for beginner sharpeners. If you are just getting into sharpening, that usually means you have some pretty dull knives. The sharpmaker is great at keeping knives sharp but as anyone who has ever used one will tell you; it is not a tool for reprofiling or setting a bevel.

If you are looking to get consistent, clean, and possibly mirrored bevels the first time every time, just go get a good quality guided system with diamond stones. KME, Hapstone, Edge Pro, Wicked edge, all of those will work. If you want to take the time to learn to freehand your options on benchstones are pretty varied but again as others have said, getting a quality coarse stone is the most important. Baryonyx manticore is fantastic for the money and from there you can flesh out with diamond plates etc.

 

[gazz98]

Welcome to the forums.

Given the stones you have already, I'd suggest taking the plunge into freehand sharpening.

Yes, it can be frustrating and time consuming. Practice on older knives. If you have a thrift store close by, grab some cheapo kitchen blades to practice on.

Despite doing it on and off for years, I'm not great at it imo but I can get a good edge on my blade that is all that matters. I also take a little bit of pride that it is "old school".

 

[scottc3]

The Work Sharp Ken Onion edition seems pretty sweet. "scottc3"- are you still using your WSKO?

Funny you should ask, last evening we were talking about stropping a bunch of knives with a 12K strop that came with, um, .5 micron white polishing compound, with the stock WSKO. Strop was bought from knife enthusiast maker on the bay.
The operative term "bunch of knives" should be noted, because my experience is it will be a one evening affair to complete the stropping on the pile of 21 or so knives, half are thrift store kitchen finds. Most knives already had 40 degree bevels set by me with the KME, some smaller blades had KME 30 bevel's set, some having previously been honed multple times with Sharpmaker ultra fine ceramics, All 21 now have WSKO convex edges at 40 degrees done by me.
Gonna offer thrift store knives WSKO work to son's for the first time. Conversation around material removal, electric belts, and the dismal shape of dad's Case boning work knife after just a year of full time use with a tri-stone n steel. One son has a CRKT M21 in 8Cr that has an ever so slight concavity in middle of the blade from heavy handed manual sharpening as their object lesson.
I have the blade grinding attachment with a set of factory belts now but no one has used it yet. I am certain that for us this will meet our needs better the a 1 x 30 belt.

 

[scottc3]

Understand their is also Norton dual sided and Manticore stones in their future.

 

[Kerneldrop]

I'm not great at it imo but I can get a good edge on my blade that is all that matters. I also take a little bit of pride that it is "old school".

This is where I'm at...I'm just looking for old school sharpness.
The guided sharpeners appealed to me because like C c7m2p3 mentioned -- you can generally get good sharpness from a guided system on day 1.
But the freehand talent is cool, for sure and what I also want to obtain.

Thank you cudgee and B bgentry - I'll check out the article, and the products mentioned. I'll get a course stone. What grit are you considering course? I see where the DMT XXC is Extra-Extra-Course.