Beginner sharpening questions

Maverick299

Maverick299

Joined
Apr 12, 2014
Messages
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Hi all. Please delete if there are multiple threads about this, but I didn't see many with a quick search.

I am new to axes but not new to knives or sharpening them. I finally ordered my first vintage axe head but it's got a small chip and needs sharpened and/or re-profiled. What is the proper grind angle and bevel for this axe? I planned to clamp it in a vice and go to work with a multi surface file, is this correct or is there a better way? Any tips, tricks, or advice you can give a first time axe sharpener so I don't ruin this thing or waste a bunch of time chasing my tail?

Thanks!

This is the what I got headed my way, hopefully I did all right for my first.

s-l1600.jpg

s-l16001.jpg
 
A good Mill-Bastard file and a 'Hockey-Puck' style sharpening stone is the 'basic kit'. Beyond that, it's personal tastes. But if you have a chip or a ding, the file is were to start. I also use different grits of wet/dry sand paper. There are numerous tutorials out there on the InterWeb. Recently, I decided to invest in DMT DIA-SHARP Diamond Whetstone. They work excellently!

Your next decision is whether to make it 'sharp', 'hair popping sharp', or 'scary sharp'. For general Axe work, 'sharp' will do. If, you get into Greenwood Carving, then you're in the 'hair popping' or 'scary sharp' realm.

Good luck and enjoy.

SJ
 
Follow the PDF or video tutorial in An Ax to grind available online and produced by the USFS. It says everything you need to know about hanging and sharpening an axe. The PDF has a to-scale bevel gauge for a felling axe. Print it out and glue it to something and you're all set.
 
This to-scale gauge...as stupid as it sounds...is in the context of an A4 paper, or?
 
Maverick299, as with knives, a meatier edge will last longer but won't cut as well as a more acute one. Of course you can into micro-bevels to increase durability; I personally prefer a convex edge on pretty much any chopping tool.

If you split wood more often than chop, or if there's an increased chance of your edge contacting dirt, leave it meatier. If you cut mostly soft wood, you can go with a thinner edge.

Oh and on an axe with convex cheeks ("high center line"), you will need to file a little bit further. Also, leave some more meat at the very "corners" of the heel and toe, as those are areas more sensible to shocks, if you want to be pedant about it.
 
Moonw said:
Maverick299, as with knives, a meatier edge will last longer but won't cut as well as a more acute one. Of course you can into micro-bevels to increase durability; I personally prefer a convex edge on pretty much any chopping tool.

If you split wood more often than chop, or if there's an increased chance of your edge contacting dirt, leave it meatier. If you cut mostly soft wood, you can go with a thinner edge.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I usually convex all my knives so I'll probably do the same with the axe. Unfortunately I mostly run into hardwoods that are fallen that need limbed and chopped. We don't have much for soft woods in my area. I sure wish we did. They are so much easier to process into firewood!
 
Moonw said:
This to-scale gauge...as stupid as it sounds...is in the context of an A4 paper, or?
Click to expand...

I made sure the PDF was scaled to 100%, and printed the image on 8.5x11 paper. Someone more versed I'm sure could make a block of them and print, but what I did worked great.
 
Maverick299 said:
Thanks for the info. I usually convex all my knives so I'll probably do the same with the axe. Unfortunately I mostly run into hardwoods that are fallen that need limbed and chopped. We don't have much for soft woods in my area. I sure wish we did. They are so much easier to process into firewood!
Click to expand...

Well, the hardwoods will keep you warmer, and longer :).
 
You're on the right track, just clamp it in a vise and start with a file. A finger guard is not a bad idea -- in Scouts we would punch the file tang through a can lid (watch the edges).
 
So that axe arrived and there is a slight wobble in the head. I don't know the proper terms so I apologize, but when looking down on the top of the eye there is a small piece missing out of the handle (maybe 1/8" to 3/16" square) and that is where I see some movement. Can I wedge a piece of wood in there and call it good, or does it need to be re-hung? I know it needs pics, but I'm at work right now, I can grab some pics later.

Thanks for all your help!
 
Flip it upside down while holding the bottom of the handle. Pound the end of the handle with a wooden or heavy rubber mallet. This will seat the head lower on the handle...likely 3-5 good strikes. Flip it back over, and use a piece of wood to pound the center wedge in more if it will go. Then use another wedge to fill the gap, and knock it in as far as it will go. You could also

If it's still loose after this, you can either re-hang it on the same handle with a new wedge (if you can get the old one out without damaging the haft), or use a new haft. Either way, follow the An Ax to Grind PDF and video tutorials that can be found online. That will cover sharpening too, as it will need it judging by the pics.
 
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