I think maybe you over-heated the thin steel before quenching. This will cause grain growth and result in a weak finished blade. It is essential to normalize after forging to reduce the grain size. Even stock removal blades may need to be normalized to reduce grain size. You can look at the broken end and see the exposed grain; is it fine or course? Thin metal doesnt take to overheating as well as thicker. You may have the torch too hot or maybe slow with the magnet, use a small tip on the torch, turn the lights out so you can see the metal color better. After nonmagetic, look for shadows (cold spots), dont burn the tip of the blade, then quickly quench and dont go sideways which may bend the blade. Staighten bent blades in a vice (but not with a hammer) as soon after quenching when cool enough to handle. I like to edge quench for maximum flexability. To do this, simply heat the edge area instead of the entire blade before quenching. Leaves a nice hamen line too. Temper at about 375 for one hour, sharpen a section and do an edge flex test. If it is going to break it will only chip the edge this way. If it chips the edge, retemper to 400 for an hour. and retest the edge. It is right if the edge flexs back to staight after flexed. I have a box full of bent and broken blades. I passed my journeyman test for American Bladesmith Society this method under Master Wayne Goddard. Bruce