Belt Grinder: Decision Time

bquinlan

bquinlan

Joined
Jan 5, 2001
Messages
2,726
After going over all of the good advice you folks gave me, and searching through old threads, I've made my decision about what to order for my first belt grinder. ...I think. :rolleyes:

If anyone has any further advice, especially along the lines of "don't do that!" I'd like to hear it before I place my order. :eek:

Here's what I've settled on:

Coote Belt Grinder: 10"x72"x2"
Small Contact Wheels: 5/8", 1", and 2" (small idler unit w/3 sleeves)
Knife Rest
3-step pulleys (for 3 speeds with a fixed-rate motor)

Baldor Electric Motor: 1-1/2 HP, 1750 RPM, 110V AC, single-phase, #FDL3514M

Am I overlooking anything?

--Bob Q
 
I have that Coote. Like it a lot. I do not have all the accessories you mention but did get my three step pulleys from Norman. I would suggest you get your pulleys from Rob Frink (the KMG guy). The Coote pulleys are not machined; Rob's are. You will have much less chatter. They cost more but so what. I need to follow my own advise and do the same.

You will be very happy with the Coote but if I ever can I am getting a KMG because it is the best.

RL
 
Coote will do just fine.
One thing, you can get the maker to set it up for 8, and 10" wheels for just a little more, before it leaves the factory.
It will make the grinder more versatile, and save you $$ further down the road.
Good luck to you. :D
 
Another thing I will suggest is to get in touch with Steve Pryor about a strip of pyroceram. Attaching it to the flat platen of the Coote will do two good things for you. It will add wear resistance and smoothness and will raise the belt far enough above the 10 inch contact wheel to allow you to taper tangs. It won't cost as much as it is worth to you.

RL
 
Bob,
Missed out on the grinder discussion, but just out of curiosity how much does the coote belt grinder with all those attachments cost? I personally would recomend the Dozier Grinder. More expensive than most grinders I still think it is a best buy. It comes with DC variable speed motor, flat platten attachment, small belting arm, 8" wheel, and pneumatic belt tensioning. This grinder is also very easy to track acurately and has the ability to change attachments very quickly! I would be lost without my Dozier Grinder.

Tom
 
Bob,

I suggest a 3/4" small wheel. I have 1/2", 3/4" and 1 something. all I end up using is the 3/4". 1/2 is too small for finger groove work, 3/4" is just right. A 2" wheel is nice, but I wish I had a 3".

Just my $.02.

All the best,

Steve
 
Yes....cost please. We want to see how jealous we need to become....


For small wheels, I mostly use 3/4" and 2" - don't see the need for the 1" wheel - maybe you have a specific application?
 
That Baldor motor looks good, just be sure your home wiring can handle the amperage if you're running 110VAC. I have a Leeson Wattsaver motor (same specs) that draws 13 amps FL @ 110VAC, because I want to keep it under 15 amps. The higher efficiency motor cost me about $25 more than the regular version. I think you'll need to wire a switch and power cord for the motor, too.

For Maska cast-iron balanced step pulleys, check with some local industrial supply companies for better prices and selection. Maska makes 6-5-4", 5-4-3", and 4-3-2" among others. I got the 4-3-2" and 5-4-3" for about $45, which will yield 2409, 1355, and 723 SFM on a 4" drive wheel and 1725 RPM motor. The Coote 10" drive wheel leaves plenty of clearance for a 6-5-4" pulley, which will work nicely with a 4-3-2" to give 1505, 2710, and 4516 SFM.

From the Coote threads I remember, the 9" sanding disk was recommended but the knife rest was not. YMMV of course. Best of luck with the grinder!
 
Get the small wheels you want. I use 1" all the time, it works great on tight inside curves.
As far as a Dozier grinder goes, how did we go from a $4-500.00 Coote, and end up with a $3500.00 Dozier. :confused:
Got to keep it real folks. No offense Tom. ;) :D

A tool rest for the contact wheel is a good idea. If I had to profile on the platen, I'd quit.
Wheel profiling is way faster, and quieter. Easier on belts too. :eek:
 
reread what SteelDriver said. I wasn't aware of this until I paid for my Leeson and realized I needed to learn how to wire it.

The motor drew 17 amps on 110 and all I had was a 15 amp circuit that was hooked up to other things (lights, computer, etc.). I decided to wire it for 220V and install a 220V outlet, breaker, etc. in the garage. This way I can upgrade to the 2HP variable speed motor at a later date.

For the switch, power cord, outlet, breaker, wiring, etc. I think I paid an additional $150 or so and took a lot of time to figure out how to do things. Cheapest electrician I spoke with (unlicensed) quoted me about $280 just to install the outlet and breaker, so I figured I saved some money.

cheers
 
rlinger said:
I would suggest you get your pulleys from Rob Frink (the KMG guy).
Click to expand...

I'll have to check the sizes and prices, but that sounds like a good idea. And I will probably get a strip of pyroceram once I recover from the initial purchase. :) Thanks for the tips.

Mike Hull said:
One thing, you can get the maker to set it up for 8, and 10" wheels for just a little more, before it leaves the factory.
Click to expand...

I will definitely do that!

Tom Krein said:
Missed out on the grinder discussion, but just out of curiosity how much does the coote belt grinder with all those attachments cost?
Click to expand...

I'm looking at around $550 with that configuration. I'm stretching my budget as it is, but a little extra money came in this month, so I decided to go with the Coote instead of a Grizzly.

SteelDriver said:
For Maska cast-iron balanced step pulleys, check with some local industrial supply companies for better prices and selection.
Click to expand...

Another source to check out. Thanks! My wiring should be okay for the motor, as long as I don't have anything else on that circuit at the same time. At least wiring intimidates me less that machining. (Some knifemaker I am!) And I'm hoping to add the disc sander later on.

Thanks to everyone for all the help!

--Bob Q
 
Mike
The Dozier grinder is $2750. and is real. The coot is worth what you pay for it, and the dozier is worth what I charge for it. I do not recomend it to a maker who only makes a few knives and is not serious about what he does.
Come to the grinding demo in Atlanta and see the best being used. By the way I have made knives with all the grinders being used and think that a maker is wasting his time with anything less than a Bador or Dozier.

Bob D.
 
The Dozier grinder is $2750.

Who makes them? I looked all over Walmart and couldn't find one. Does Harbor Freight carry it? :footinmou :footinmou :footinmou :footinmou :o :footinmou :footinmou
 
Bob Q

I don't have the time to post a lot on the forums, but do occasionally. I think that you should buy a grinder that will fit the kind of knife making you are doing and spend as much as you can afford. The grinder will be the most important equipment in your shop and you should have a good one. I have a square wheel and two burr kings. The square wheel has been totally rebuilt to fit my needs. I do not have a BADOR at this time but do have eleven grinders in my shop and use them all. I have had a bador that my youngest son wanted and I gave it to him.

Bob D.

Bob give me a call at my shop and above all base your openions on what KNIFEMAKERS think.
 
Bob, no offense was intended towards your grinder.
The man is looking to spend about $500.00, and as usual in these types of threads, it took off to unreasonable heights, money wise.
 
I didn't intend to offend him Mike. I sometimes forget that real knifemakers are offended easily.

openions on what KNIFE MAKERS think

I couldn't agree more Bob Q. Base your opinions on what GOOD knifemakers think.
 
I am not offended.

I ask fledgling knifemakers how much they can spend and how serious they are about advanceing with their knife making. Having a grinder that doesn't work nearly perfect can be a nitemare as your skills grow.
If you only want to pick at knife making, and sharpen a few lawnmower blades, buy some thing cheap and don't worry about it. Or if you just don't have the money, do the best you can. But remember if you buy a grinder that doesn't work really well, it ain't going to get any better.
Try to have a grinder that your shop will grow around.


Bob D.
 
Bob Dozier said:
.. If you only want to pick at knife making, and sharpen a few lawnmower blades, buy some thing cheap and don't worry about it. Or if you just don't have the money, do the best you can. But remember if you buy a grinder that doesn't work really well, it ain't going to get any better.
Try to have a grinder that your shop will grow around.


Bob D.
Click to expand...

I agree completely. The problem is, I've found here that it's hard enough to talk someone out of a Grizzly, and into a Coote for their first grinder.
Anything more would be perceived as heresy. :D :)

I like this saying by someone else;
"I'm too poor to buy cheap.
Buy proven equipment once and you're set for a lifetime,
buy cheap and you'll get to buy it again.
Life is too short to mess with questionable gear."


But the hassles involved with these "first grinder" threads has me shying away from them anymore. Just not worth it.
 
Bob Dozier said:
I think that you should buy a grinder that will fit the kind of knife making you are doing and spend as much as you can afford. The grinder will be the most important equipment in your shop and you should have a good one.
Click to expand...

I am trying to follow that advice as best I can. My budget is being stretched to the limit just to buy a Coote, but I am putting just about all of my available funds into getting the best grinder I can afford. All my other equipment is either improvised from tools I already had, old stuff that friends no longer needed, or repaired junk I was able to pick up for next to nothing. This grinder will account for more than 90% of my total knifemaking budget so far.

Eventually I do want to upgrade. Maybe, given time, I'll learn enough to make some knives worth selling and have a little money to put back into my hobby. Your grinder was the first one I looked at. Someday I expect it to be the last one I buy. :)

And on a somewhat related note...

A few years ago you made a knife for me, a variation on your #6 pattern with extended guards and a 5-1/2" blade. I haven't gone into the woods without it since. The simple elegance and functionality of that knife was an important part of what got me thinking about knife design and, eventually, knife making. Thank you, both for the knife, which has been a reliable companion, and for the inspiration it has provided.

--Bob Q
 
As far as a Dozier grinder goes, how did we go from a $4-500.00 Coote, and end up with a $3500.00 Dozier. :confused:
Got to keep it real folks. No offense Tom. ;) :D

Mike,
I was trying to keep it real. I had no idea of how much a Coote grinder cost. If you will look in my post I ask how much one costs. I also recomended what I use every day, a Dozier Grinder.
This question has been posed to me many times by people that come into my shop and I always recomend the Dozier Grinder and most people reply it costs too much. In knifemaking (as a business/livelyhood) like so may other things time is money. The dozier grinder is not only more precise (tracks better, which equals better plunge cuts) but is much quicker to set up for different tasks.

Tom
 
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