Belt grinder drive wheel query.

T

Tehemton

Joined
Sep 6, 2016
Messages
85
Hi, I'm a beginner knife maker and am in the process of making my belt grinder.
I'm using my bench grinder for the motor and am mounting the drive wheel on a tube like shaft attachment that screws into the grinder.
My question is, if I simply machine the 4" drive wheel out of steel and press fit it on the shaft with some epoxy, will it hold or am I doing something stupid and there might be a better way of doing it.
I would really appreciate some advice here.
Thank you.
P. S. I don't know how to upload pictures here from my drive. I've added the image drive links below.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5iHK8UlZuKWNHNPTVAtN2JpQTQ/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5iHK8UlZuKWaFlNRjZqS0I1QUk/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5iHK8UlZuKWU2dJanoxazZaNUE/view?usp=drivesdk
 
That is a tapered spindle for attaching a buff or other finishing wheel to a shaft. It is not meant for attaching a drive wheel.
The drive wheel should be mounted on a keyed shaft and use one or two set screws to secure the wheel to the key. A few lower cost drive wheels only have set screws (I do not like that setup).
If you did what you describe it would probably run horribly out of balance and shake your workbench like a jack-hammer.
 
Since you mention "machining a drive wheel" you sound like you've got a lathe? If so, you should be able to take that shaft with the taper on end, cut the taper off out of way. The rest of shaft is same diameter from one end to other? If so, just screw it on the threaded motor shaft and use it as the shaft. Then make your drive wheel with the ID hole that's a tight fit on the shaft, drill a couple of holes for setscrews and try it. The setscrews should hold drive wheel just fine. Perhaps a tiny flat spot on the shaft for the setscrews to press against?

Stacy, "IF" everything is balanced good, shouldn't that work?
 
Yes, "IF" everything is balanced right. However, those shaft adapters are far from concentric on the shaft. Add to that the fact that it isn't going on a machined shaft, but instead will be on a threaded shaft. They just slide on and lock in place with a set screw. I would bet the assembly is out of round by a lot more than most folks would accept on a grinder.

Since he is using a bench grinder motor, I was figuring he was not a machinist capable of boring and fitting a shaft adapter.

He would be far better to get a proper 56C mount motor and put the drive wheel directly on the 5/8" shaft.
 
Thanks Ken,
I live in Mumbai and don't own a lathe as such but have access to one in the industrial areas. I'm not a machinist by any means, my field is electronics and telecom engineering and all this is really new to me.
The spindle is pretty well balanced from what I can see. Still I'll have it evened out on the lathe once just to keep everything true. Thanks for the tip regarding cutting the tapered end off. I just run it once and the end was out of balance.
I'll get the wheel machined on the lathe, drill and tap 2 set screws.
 
Sorry Tehemton. Many people in the west(especially we Americans), can't see but 2" in front of our own fat, wealthy lives & agenda! They don't consider that buying new components, is simply not an option for many of us. Especially buying an expensive AC motor! The next thing is people will start telling you it must be 3phase or it's no good, or 1800rpm or no good and even a BALDOR or no good! People forget that many out there must work with what they have! I am American, but I must use what I have for many things.

You are going to run into criticism, but pay it no mind. Do what you are able to. Not all of us can afford an overpriced TW90.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
They just slide on and lock in place with a set screw.
Click to expand...
(ok, I'm starting to learn how this "quote" stuff works on this new software)

Stacy, I didn't pick up on your comment - I though the adapter screwed on the threaded shaft, you say they just slide on and lock in place with setscrew? If so, that would be VERY hard to be concentric 'n balanced.

Tehemton: is this the case? OR - does the adapter screw on the threaded shaft? If that adapter isn't concentric, then perhaps you can make a new adapter that is threaded and will be concentric and balanced? Also, if you can get aluminum for the drive wheel it might work better, less spinning weight. Most all (if not all) drive wheels here in states are aluminum rather than steel - not sure what the reason is.

Mumbai? That's what used to be Bombay - isn't it? Good luck - I've spent my life learning to "make do" with what I had access on myself, but not to the extend folks in some other countries must do.

Ken H>
 
If you want a lesson in humility, watch some You Tube vids on knife & tool makers in some 3rd world countries. Very humbling to see what they accomplish, with what they have to work with.
 
Hi Ken,
Yes the adapter simply screws on to the threaded spindle of the bench grinder which is why I considered using it. It's pretty concentric to begin with and has machining marks on the outside which led me to believe that it was roughly machined out on a lathe. I would still ask the guy making my wheels to run it on the lathe one more time to ensure that everything is perfectly concentric.
I found these pieces of steel lying around so I thought of using them, but yeah, aluminum would be better in this application.

Yes Mumbai was formerly known as Bombay. Labor here is cheap in the industrial areas and I could probably have a couple of wheels machined in under $10 US.
So I figured I'd see how these ms wheels perform and then consider buy aluminum stock and getting wheels made out of them.
Also since it's a single speed 2880rpm motor, I would need different diameter drive wheels to vary the speed and could simply buy a couple more of those shaft adapters and get smaller or bigger wheels made accordingly.
Thanks for all the advice. As a beginner every bit counts.
 
Assuming adequate balance, if you're having the wheel machined anyway, I'd have the machinist add 2 or 3 set screws, maybe 120 degrees apart. Additionally, a bit of quality superglue may help to keep it from spinning. Alernatively, you might just drill a hole all the way through the wheel and the shaft and use a roll pin or two to lock it in place. Not necessarily as good as a keyway, but for a 1hp grinder motor, it should be adequate.
 
DavidHoback said:
Sorry Tehemton. Many people in the west(especially we Americans), can't see but 2" in front of our own fat, wealthy lives & agenda! They don't consider that buying new components, is simply not an option for many of us. Especially buying an expensive AC motor! The next thing is people will start telling you it must be 3phase or it's no good, or 1800rpm or no good and even a BALDOR or no good! People forget that many out there must work with what they have! I am American, but I must use what I have for many things.

You are going to run into criticism, but pay it no mind. Do what you are able to. Not all of us can afford an overpriced TW90.
Click to expand...

I've not yet experienced this and I have done things quite not recommended. Built my first 2x72 grinder with a salvaged DC treadmill motor, and my first contact wheel I used a plastic wheel from a push mower that doesn't even have a bearing, just a bushing. I think you will find quite the opposite. Yes they will "recommend" what works best, but you will also find the same people will help figure out how to "rig" something to work with what you have available. The only people I have seen criticized on this forum are people offering mis-information typically in the HT or metallurgy threads.
 
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I just got the wheels machined out on the lathe out of some EN41b stock I had lying around. Unbelievably it cost me less than$9 US to get both of them made. Tapped 3 set screws 120 degrees apart and it runs smooth like butter!
I still have to grind the set screws down as they're jutting out a bit and smooth it out with some sandpaper (The machining marks are a bit too visible). Overall I'm extremely happy with the way it turned out and how smooth it runs.
Thank you everyone for the help :)
I'm attaching the drive link to the images below.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5iHK8UlZuKWcWVsSE1pckp0X28/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5iHK8UlZuKWRFY5dzVKR0RKNVU/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5iHK8UlZuKWQ3puZUpaVGVTR00/view?usp=drivesdk
 
I'm glad it worked out. It was a good thing that you had the screw on shaft adapters. They are run much truer.

Be sure to show us photos when you get it all together.
 
Hi,
I got the grinder up and running and it's sweet! I designed it such that I can adjust every aspect of it.
The belt had a slight wobble initially, but a little electrical tape to crown the wheels a bit more did the trick.
Thank you guys again for helping me out, it was a year long dream of mine to build a belt grinder and not have to file the bevels for 4 hours.
Couldn't find pyrocrean glass here so I simply epoxied a floor tile and it works just fine.
I've linked the Google Drive for the images below.
Thanks a lot again, guys!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5iHK8UlZuKWcHdxTnpDNkhoMGc/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5iHK8UlZuKWUnZZRENQVDdwTUE/view?usp=drivesdk
 
Congrats on the new machine.
Sounds like a little extra crown may have helped your tracking, but also keep in mind that the main reason for wobbling belts is USUALLY lack of tension. The tighter your belt is, the better it will track, assuming all of your wheels are properly balanced and are on the same plane and center line.
 
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