Belt Grinder Safety

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Jun 27, 2018
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I am a high school metalwork teacher and we just replaced a tired old belt sander with two Bee Belt Grinders (the only CSA approved grinders in Canada) and they work great. But now I need to come up with a safety unit for the machines. If you were going to teach a high school kid to grind metal and blades, what would you teach em for safety? This is what it looks like, and it has a platen and small wheel accessories.
50-1AV10.jpg

platen_view_%28lit._temp%29.jpg

50_with_0530_%28small_wheel%29.jpg
 
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#1 - Eye protection - ALWAYS wear a full face shield (or full fit goggles). Sparks, metal slivers, and grit can go right around glasses.

#2 - Lung protection - Wear a filtering mask or a positive pressure respirator. For short term class use, a painting filter mask would be acceptable.

#3 - Hand protection - While opinions vary, I like wearing the knit cotton mesh metal working gloves when grinding. The belt is a moving abrasive surface, just like the road is when cycling You wear gloves for both things to protect the fingers when the hand accidentally bumps the belt/road. This is very different from a rotating tool. Instruct the class that gloves are NEVER to be worn on rotating tools like drills, mills, and lathes.

#4 - Pinch point areas - NEVER put your hand or fingers behind the belt under any circumstance. A finger that goes around a contact or guide wheel will come out the other side in a very different condition.

#5 - Fire Safety - Where are those sparks going? Remove all easily flammable objects and liquids from around the grinders. (paper, cardboard, solvents, etc.) All wood dust and shavings from working wood must be vacuumed up before working steel in the same area.

#6 - General Safety - Work with a clean area around the grinder. Don't leave things on the floor where you or someone couldd trip and accidentally grab a running grinder to catch their fall. Don't use tools while affected by drugs or alcohol. Take a bathroom break before starting. You don't want to be distracted by needing to pee.
Don't use tools when tired, mad/upset, impaired, or distracted. Radios, I-pods, ear buds, etc. should not be used when grinding or using shop tools.

#7 - Think Safety - Before turning on a tool, look around to make sure there is nothing that will become a flying object when the tool is turned on. (something sitting on the belt or leaning against the contact wheel. A chuck key in a drill press, etc.). Look at power cords, the condition and settings on the tool, and for any other issues. Look at the people around you. There should be no one close enough to impede your safe working of the tool. If someone is using a tool unsafely near you, don't work that station. Tell the shop teacher or safety monitor immediately. If the person will listen to you, explain why they are being unsafe and show them the right way to use the tool.

#8 Equipment Safety - Know how the tool works. Respect the power of the tool (If it can grind steel, think what it will do to flesh). Never by-pass or disable any safety device. Never run the tool with any of the safety shields or devices removed or disconnected.

#9 - Other things to be aware of - Good lighting is important. If you can't see clearly, you can't work safely.
The edge of the belt will cut like a moving knife blade. This is especially true of the finer belts. The item being ground may form sharp edges that will cut you while working the metal. Knock off all sharp edges before the get you. Knife blades can get very sharp in profiling on low grit wheels. If that happens grind the edge back a millimeter to remove the sharp edge. Have a good grip on the item being ground. Use a grinding magnet if needed( I use one all the time). Stand with your feet apart at shoulder width.Tuck your elbows in to your sides (not out like chicken wings).
 
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I agree with Stacy's view on gloves. I wear tight fitting coated knit gloves when grinding... EXCEPT when I'm using a tool rest that creates a pinch point. "push sticks" are also a good thing to introduce them to. You may have already covered those with band saw work.

The BEE Grinder is an amazing machine and probably my next purchase. Make sure you take advantage of the dust port at the back of the shroud. I don't know if you have a collector/filter system but be aware of the need for some sort of spark arrest along the line.
 
Pinch points. Tool rest gaps. How to avoid broken belts. Edge of a moving belt is a cutting hazard.
Thanks for the reply. Can you elaborate on some of these things? We teach that a tool rest gap on a bench grinder should not exceed 1/8" is this a common gap in belt grinders? How exactly does one avoid breaking belts?
 
#1 - Eye protection - ALWAYS wear a full face shield (or full fit goggles). Sparks, metal slivers, and grit can go right around glasses.

#2 - Lung protection - Wear a filtering mask or a positive pressure respirator. For short term class use, a painting filter mask would be acceptable.

#3 - Hand protection - While opinions vary, I like wearing the knit cotton mesh metal working gloves when grinding. The belt is a moving abrasive surface, just like the road is when cycling You wear gloves for both things to protect the fingers when the hand accidentally bumps the belt/road. This is very different from a rotating tool. Instruct the class that gloves are NEVER to be worn on rotating tools like drills, mills, and lathes.

#4 - Pinch point areas - NEVER put your hand or fingers behind the belt under any circumstance. A finger that goes around a contact or guide wheel will come out the other side in a very different condition.

#5 - Fire Safety - Where are those sparks going? Remove all easily flammable objects and liquids from around the grinders. (paper, cardboard, solvents, etc.) All wood dust and shavings from working wood must be vacuumed up before working steel in the same area.

#6 - General Safety - Work with a clean area around the grinder. Don't leave things on the floor where you or someone couldd trip and accidentally grab a running grinder to catch their fall. Don't use tools while affected by drugs or alcohol. Take a bathroom break before starting. You don't want to be distracted by needing to pee.
Don't use tools when tired, mad/upset, impaired, or distracted. Radios, I-pods, ear buds, etc. should not be used when grinding or using shop tools.

#7 - Think Safety - Before turning on a tool, look around to make sure there is nothing that will become a flying object when the tool is turned on. (something sitting on the belt or leaning against the contact wheel. A chuck key in a drill press, etc.). Look at power cords, the condition and settings on the tool, and for any other issues. Look at the people around you. There should be no one close enough to impede your safe working of the tool. If someone is using a tool unsafely near you, don't work that station. Tell the shop teacher or safety monitor immediately. If the person will listen to you, explain why they are being unsafe and show them the right way to use the tool.

#8 Equipment Safety - Know how the tool works. Respect the power of the tool (If it can grind steel, think what it will do to flesh). Never by-pass or disable any safety device. Never run the tool with any of the safety shields or devices removed or disconnected.

#9 - Other things to be aware of - Good lighting is important. If you can't see clearly, you can't work safely.
The edge of the belt will cut like a moving knife blade. This is especially true of the finer belts. The item being ground may form sharp edges that will cut you while working the metal. Knock off all sharp edges before the get you. Knife blades can get very sharp in profiling on low grit wheels. If that happens grind the edge back a millimeter to remove the sharp edge. Have a good grip on the item being ground. Use a grinding magnet if needed( I use one all the time). Stand with your feet apart at shoulder width.Tuck your elbows in to your sides (not out like chicken wings).

Thanks for the info, I had some of those but lots of good info, though I need to consult with my shop teachers association on the gloves, there is pretty much a ban on gloves on all rotation tools, not sure they would approve of this on belt grinders but since belt grinders are rare in metal shops around here they may have no comment.
 
I agree with Stacy's view on gloves. I wear tight fitting coated knit gloves when grinding... EXCEPT when I'm using a tool rest that creates a pinch point. "push sticks" are also a good thing to introduce them to. You may have already covered those with band saw work.

The BEE Grinder is an amazing machine and probably my next purchase. Make sure you take advantage of the dust port at the back of the shroud. I don't know if you have a collector/filter system but be aware of the need for some sort of spark arrest along the line.
Thanks for the reply. Yes I will be using the dust port, we have a grinding bust collection system on all our bench grinders and these are plumbed into the same, so no worry about spark arrest. As I said in my reply to Stacy I am doubtful that my association will agree with gloves, anything that rotate has a ban on gloves, plus its impossible to find gloves that fix a 12 year old.
 
Probably wise to remove the tool rest when grinding vertically, if the blade slips it will be sent straight into the rest and bounce off. Wear a thick leather apron when grinding.
 
Probably wise to remove the tool rest when grinding vertically, if the blade slips it will be sent straight into the rest and bounce off. Wear a thick leather apron when grinding.
When you say grinding vertically do you mean like free hand grinding a blade?
 
Lots of good info here. I personally dont wear gloves but i see pros and cons to both. I think running at a slower speed if possible helps to minimize the sevarity of little scrapes and cuts. I think its important to respect the machine and understand that it can bite if your not careful.
 
All of that

And when you start it up stand to the side in case a belt pops on start up.
 
My dad had a wood working shop when I was growing up. I was piddling around on some pathetic little project of my own, when I asked if I could use the 6x48 belt/disc sander to round off some corners. I can still remember him taking a piece of scrap pine that was just a little larger than my fingers and about 12 inches long, and jamming it into the running belt. Being that the belt was about 60 grit or so, the scrap wood basically vaporized before my eyes.

He said,"That wood was a lot tougher than a finger, and this machine doesn't care which is which."

Needless to say, I was extra careful when using the sander.
 
One that stuck with me reading some historical notes about Sheffield makers, was that the guys grinding the blades didnt live past 35 years old. Losing some skin and maybe a fingertip is nothing compared to lung damage. Shop fires also suck. I would highlight those two things.
 
lockout/tagout the grinder before changing belts, wheels, platen, cleaning, and other operation where you could come in contact with anything moving. If grinder is hardwired, lockout the breaker that feeds the grinder. If grinder is plug-in, get a lockout device where basically the plug is locked inside a plastic can.
 
Scott, my first thought is perhaps lock out/tag out is a bit of overkill just for changing belts..... but on reflection this is a bunch of high school kids, so maybe it does make a LOTS of sense. AND the "no radio/music" makes sense while using a grinder. Those belts can eat skin before you can think about it!
 
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