Belt Sander and Convex Edge Question

Triquetra

Triquetra

Joined
Mar 7, 2002
Messages
759
I was looking at a Craftsman 2 X4 belt sander and had a question about it. One of the things that I would like to do is put convex edges on my knives, tomahawks, machetes, etc. I know that I’ve read instructions on loosening the belt to get the convex. This belt sander and one that I saw at Lowes looks to have a solid backing. Is it possible to get the convex edge with these or to somehow use the sander belt where you can get that give? I’m really looking for a budget belt sander to start with but these don’t look like they would do what I want.
 
If you are going to use the belt sander primarily for sharpening, I would recommend the Work Sharp WSKTS. I have been using it for the past 3 months or so, and I have used it around 30 times to sharpen different shaped and sized blades. It is very easy to use, and it works very well at sharpening, and I am not under contract to say these things ;)
However, if you plan on using the belt sander for applications other than sharpening things, then the WSKTS may not be for you.

BTW it costs anywhere from $70-90 depending on where you go.

Depending on how close the backing is to the sanding media, you may be able to get favorable results. I would say that a 1/4" is more than enough space behind the belt to get a convex edge.
 
CRKDMike said:
If you are going to use the belt sander primarily for sharpening, I would recommend the Work Sharp WSKTS. I have been using it for the past 3 months or so, and I have used it around 30 times to sharpen different shaped and sized blades. It is very easy to use, and it works very well at sharpening, and I am not under contract to say these things ;)
However, if you plan on using the belt sander for applications other than sharpening things, then the WSKTS may not be for you.

BTW it costs anywhere from $70-90 depending on where you go.

Depending on how close the backing is to the sanding media, you may be able to get favorable results. I would say that a 1/4" is more than enough space behind the belt to get a convex edge.
Click to expand...

No I'm actually wanting to try and start making knives not just sharpening.
 
You should be able to take the platen off. It probably only has 1 or 2 bolts holding it in place. If it has a spring tensioner then you will need to use the belts at that set tension or change the spring.
 
I use a 2x42 Craftsman. You can either take the platen off or use the space between the top of the platen and the bottom of the wheel. There's a space there that will allow you to use as a slack belt.
 
Triquetra said:
I was looking at a Craftsman 2 X4 belt sander and had a question about it. One of the things that I would like to do is put convex edges on my knives, tomahawks, machetes, etc. I know that I’ve read instructions on loosening the belt to get the convex. This belt sander and one that I saw at Lowes looks to have a solid backing. Is it possible to get the convex edge with these or to somehow use the sander belt where you can get that give? I’m really looking for a budget belt sander to start with but these don’t look like they would do what I want.
Click to expand...

Very easy to do. The platen loosens up so you can move it back off the belt.

I took the useless rest off the round wheel on the side. Then replaced the screws that hold the platen on with the knobs from the rest. Now its a matter of seconds to change it from platen to slack.

No further changes are needed to do a convex edge using the 2x42. But be careful, practice on a few pieces of scrap first or a few knives you don't mind wrecking, this thing runs super fast. IMO this is the only major drawback of the 2x42. Be careful, light pressure, and take your time unit you get the hang of it.
 
I have had good luck doing this with the Harbour Freight 1 by 30 belt sander....just take the platen off
 
Has anyone tried gluing a strip of leather to the platen as a soft backing? I wonder if that would hold up to the belt friction for any length of time. Assuming it worked I think it would give you more control over the convexity as opposed to an unsupported belt, which I think would tend to make a very heavy convex shape.
 
The shroud also gets in the way somewhat. I've really got to trim the shroud on mine instead of constantly fighting it.
 
oic0 said:
The shroud also gets in the way somewhat. I've really got to trim the shroud on mine instead of constantly fighting it.
Click to expand...

I made the mistake of taking too much off, it weakens the design. For the top shroud I wouldn't take off more than 2/3, leave a bit "around the curve" if that makes sense.

On the bottom I would only grind off about half of the shroud.

Take a look at the pics on the thread I posted above, hope this makes sense!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top