Belt Sander Mirror Polish

[Stark Knives]

I got my HF belt sander a week or two ago and let me say, I'm loving it! I have one or two questions.

I can't quite get a mirror polish so far, is this belt progression enough to get a mirror polish on a blade? Or does my technique need refining?

400 grit

15 micron

9 micron

Leather belt with Lowes green compound

I also have belt all the way down to 120 grit.

Even if I can't I'm still very happy with my purchase. :thumbup:

Erd

 

[Razorsharp-Travis]

Im sure you could get a better mirror if you could get a belt at 3-1 microns.9 microns equals 1200 grit which is quite a hazy finish. If you can get a 2000 (7 microns) grit belt and a 3-1 micron belt, you would get a mirror edge

 

[richard j]

get a slotted paper wheel and use it to finish off your edges. you would be amazed at how low a grit you can get a mirror finish on.

 

[cziv]

Is there an advantage to paper wheel finishing of a 400 grit edge as compared to one finished at more refined grit?

I'm thinking the advantage would be less removal of your blade's steel. Anyone?

 

[richard j]

if you take me up on my offer and come down you can find out for yourself . i can take an edge that is dull and work up a tiny burr with 120 grit and get it to shave hair. i have worked up a burr with 80 grit and the guy told me it treetopped armhair. i'm going to take a test blade and work up a burr on 24 grit and see what i can do with that. my guess is it will still shave hair.

 

[foam2]

When I am sharpening on my belt sander, if there is no edge damage I will typically start with a 600 grit belt, move to 1000 grit, and then two stropping steps, the first with Bark River black compound followed by Bark River White compound. I use the rough side of the leather belt facing out. With each progressive step you should be trying to remove scratches left fom the previous grit. Take your time and use light pressure and keep your blade moving as to avoid uneven bevels. If you want a mirror polish you can't skimp on the final polishing steps.

 

[cziv]

if you take me up on my offer and come down you can find out for yourself . i can take an edge that is dull and work up a tiny burr with 120 grit and get it to shave hair. i have worked up a burr with 80 grit and the guy told me it treetopped armhair. i'm going to take a test blade and work up a burr on 24 grit and see what i can do with that. my guess is it will still shave hair.

So it's tru what I'm thinking? Your process saves a lot of steel removal to get sharp. I grind a lot of metal off my blades to get finer edges and use all kinds of DMT stones & grits & strops and it's not really necessary? Shit!

 

[Mack]

So it's tru what I'm thinking? Your process saves a lot of steel removal to get sharp. I grind a lot of metal off my blades to get finer edges and use all kinds of DMT stones & grits & strops and it's not really necessary? Shit!

I highly advise you to take up his offer, if you get a day to visit him. It is a real eye opening experience. I learned a ton in just a short time when I was there.

 

[cziv]

Is there an advantage to paper wheel finishing of a 400 grit edge as compared to one finished at more refined grit?

I'm thinking the advantage would be less removal of your blade's steel. Anyone?

Will no one answer this question???

 

[Mack]

Will no one answer this question???

Very little time involved in getting a fantastic working edge compared to slow tedious work getting a pretty but mostly useless edge. YMMV.

 

[cziv]

Very little time involved in getting a fantastic working edge compared to slow tedious work getting a pretty but mostly useless edge. YMMV.

I agree Mack, but that's not what I've been asking bro. I hand sharpen so most of my knives have "working edges." I'm talking about the savings of stock removal via paper wheel sharpening.

 

[Mack]

Is there an advantage to paper wheel finishing of a 400 grit edge as compared to one finished at more refined grit?

I'm thinking the advantage would be less removal of your blade's steel. Anyone?

I agree Mack, but that's not what I've been asking bro. I hand sharpen so most of my knives have "working edges." I'm talking about the savings of stock removal via paper wheel sharpening.

Sorry I must have misunderstood.
The way I see it is, the only way to sharpen is to remove steel. The wheels will remove an equal amount of steel but will do it much more easily. Also, I found it to be easier to maintain the edge angles with the wheels simply because of the way you are holding the blade to the wheel. You can see exactly what you are doing the way Richard does it.

 

[cziv]

Sorry I must have misunderstood.
The way I see it is, the only way to sharpen is to remove steel. The wheels will remove an equal amount of steel but will do it much more easily. Also, I found it to be easier to maintain the edge angles with the wheels simply because of the way you are holding the blade to the wheel. You can see exactly what you are doing the way Richard does it.

Ah hah! You're a paper wheel owner? I'm ready to find a cheap motor and buy a paper wheel and try it out on my basement workbench. Maybe! Do I need an expensive motor or just one that most guys use for grinding stuff?

It's a lot of fun to put a nice edge on by hand, but dang, I take too much steel off with those DMT benchstones and vision is definitely impaired on one side usually.

 

[Mack]

I don't have them yet. I have spent some time with Richard and have seen what they do. I'm totally sold on them. I don't think you need an expensive motor, just a decent 1/2 horse one.

 

[Steel130]

Ah hah! You're a paper wheel owner? I'm ready to find a cheap motor and buy a paper wheel and try it out on my basement workbench. Maybe! Do I need an expensive motor or just one that most guys use for grinding stuff?

It's a lot of fun to put a nice edge on by hand, but dang, I take too much steel off with those DMT benchstones and vision is definitely impaired on one side usually.

Once I have the extra money I am going to buy a set of wheels ect as well. My brother and I went down there for a weekend and it was alot of fun, and Richard has a ton of knowledge to bestow. Richard recommends a variable speed motor if you can find one so you can run the wheels at around 1750Rpm.

 

[Stark Knives]

Do you guys mind trying to stay on topic?

Does anyone have any answers to my original question?

Thanks,

Erd

 

[cziv]

Do you guys mind trying to stay on topic?

Does anyone have any answers to my original question?

Thanks,

Erd

I think your question was answered but hey I'll shut up.

Im sure you could get a better mirror if you could get a belt at 3-1 microns.9 microns equals 1200 grit which is quite a hazy finish. If you can get a 2000 (7 microns) grit belt and a 3-1 micron belt, you would get a mirror edge

 

[richard j]

erd, you could get a slotted wheel to go along with the belt sander which would give you what you are wanting with less work. if you have a woodcraft store close, go check them out.

 

[Stark Knives]

I think your question was answered but hey I'll shut up.

That's fine you don't have to shut up!

Erd

 

[Stark Knives]

Sorry for bumping this, but I figure it's better than starting a new thread.

Would I benefit from getting DMT diamond paste for my leather belt? If so, would I put the 1, 3, or 6 micron on the belt? I could also put it on some strops.
Also, how would I get the green compound off my leather belt, WD-40?

One more question, the smooth backside of the belt which I'd put the paste on has some black stuff on it, how should I take it off? Would sanding work?

Erd

EDIT: How can I tell if I removed the scratches from the previous grit?