For just a few knives with plain edges, with little risk of damaging them, I'd recommend a Norton Course/Fine double sided stone. They are about $20, and will last for years if you just sharpen your knives, not everyone elses. I sat down one night and sharpened every knife in the kitchen block in 2 hours by hand with just that stone. There were 8 knives in the block, from a 3" blade paring knife to an 8" blade chefs knife. If you have standard blade steels you can get a hair whittling edge off the fine side of the Norton, with some practice. The more expensive/exotic blade steels take more effort, but can be done on the Norton as well, at least M2 can. I havent tried the CPM steels.
A belt sander is not out of your league, but you will most likely ruin at least one knife when learning to use it. I can do the same kitchen block in less than 1/2 hour with a belt sander, but the cost is more than twice as much, and there is a good chance I'll scratch something. Belt sanders can also take off a lot of steel if you're not very careful. I've retired several blades since I started using it. However, I love the polished edge I get with a 1x30 leather belt and honing compound, and its unbeatable if you have machetes or larger brush blades.
If you have a way to cut accurate angles in wood, you can make some of the jigs seen here that hold the stone at the desired angle while you only have to hold the knife either horizontal or vertical. I prefer vertical, as I can hold the knife more consistently than I can horizontally. Others prefer horizontal. I have a 4x4 cut at 17 degrees, screwed to a 1x6 base that holds it up vertically. Avoid knotty wood, as it will prevent the stone from being flat against the holder. The angle is not really that important, but I recommend 25 degrees or less. I lean my stones against it so they are at 17 degrees from vertical and hold the knife vertically like cutting bread on a board, and sharpen the edge on the coarse side. I alternate 20 strokes per side of the edge. When I feel a burr, I switch to the fine side of the stone and move the stone out a little from the 4x4, so its maybe 20 to 22 degrees from vertical. I drew a line on the base about 1 inch away from the 4x4 and use that to line up the stone in the same place from one time to the next. Then I alternate strokes from one side to the other, turning the holder each time. This seems like a pain, but all you are trying to do is remove the burr, so it only takes 10 to 15 strokes per side. If you need a touch up, just put the bottom of the stone on the line, lean the top against the 4x4, and sharpen at the higher angle on the fine side. When 15 to 20 strokes per side stops working, go back to the coarse side. I've been doing it this way for 10 years, though I frequently use the Sharpmaker at 20 degrees instead of the fine side of the Norton. I changed to water stones, but the procedure is the same. I can consistently get edges that will catch the hair on the back of my head, and whittle beard hair. I had a lansky and was disappointed with it. It took time to set up, cut steel slowly, didnt handle my longer blades very well, and was difficult to get repeat angles from one sharpening to the next.
If you have any serrated blades, the Spyderco Sharpmaker is almost a must. With the ultrafine rods it is ridiculous what kind of edges you can put on serrated, as well as plain edge, knives. If you want a V-stick sharpening system, like the one in your link, the Sharpmaker is the best I know of. Be warned that sharpening can become a martial art of sorts, in that some people, like me, are always trying to do a little better than yesterday. If all you need are sharp knives, the Norton will get you there. If you really want to get a hair splitting edge with only the Norton, get a strop to follow the fine side, or go to the local woodworking shop and get some 0.3 micron honing films and stick them to a smooth base and use them as a strop. Mine came in packs of 3 with sticky backing and one has lasted for nearly 8 months (I sharpen a lot).
Then, months later an acquaintance showed me his knife sharpened on an Edgepro. I went out and bought an EdgePro soon after. I've been happiest with the Edgepro. Consistent, spectacular, sharp result. If you intend to just maintain edges, not major reprofiles, and don't want to spend the $ on an Edgepro get a Sharpmaker. You get very good edges with a Sharpmaker. It does have some drawbacks but overall is a fine sharpener for the $.
