Belt sander sharpening

B

beakman

Joined
Dec 21, 2005
Messages
29
Hi Guys,
Been looking at another forum so this question may be redundant.
I have a H.F. 1x30 belt sander and some new belts from Lee Valley.
Anybody got any advice on how to go about sharpening with this machine.
Also I have been informed of the dangers of belt sharpening already. I am a carefull person so please don't worry.
Help with this new endeavor would be appreciated

Eric,
 
The basics are the same, they don't really change from benchstone to belt sander to rock you pick up outside. Since the belt sander moves so fast the speed of metal remove is very high even for fine grits and thus the main difference is that it doesn't take very long.

-Cliff
 
With any power tool, the disadvantage is, that if you make a mistake, it happens faster and worse. Keep that in mind, "let the tool do the work", go slow, and you'll be fine.
 
I started using my HF sander by getting a burr at a lower angle than my sharpmaker 20 degree slots, then moving to the sharpmaker. You can also go to a fine India stone or other stone of your choosing, to remove the wire edge/burr at a higher angle than the sander ground on. The leather belts for sanders work well with some compound on them. Just strop using the leather belt on the sander with some white or green compound. These belts run about $15-$20 though, so you may want to use a stone if you have one handy already. I typically use edge trailing on the sander. I've tried edge leading, but its difficult for me to visualize the sharpening angle that way.
 
me2 said:
I typically use edge trailing on the sander. I've tried edge leading, but its difficult for me to visualize the sharpening angle that way.
Click to expand...

Not to mention that edge leading is potentially far more dangerous. Sharpening on a belt sander should be done edge trailing.

Mark
 
Don't know if you've already done this but you might try modifying the belt sander by rigging it to lay on its back (bottom and feet away from you ) so the platen and belt are parallel with your work suface. It's easier (for me anyway) to get the bevel angle right that way. I run the belt away from the edge when I use it. It's a great tool, enjoy it!
 
When people say go slow, they are referring to not trying to do everything in one pass - keep the pressure light. Don't move the blade too slow, or else you'll burn it. Go to a garage/yard sale, pick up a bunch of knives, and practice on them, then throw them away. You'll be amazed how easy it is to burn a tip....
 
Do a search here for Jerry Hossom or go to the forum that starts with a "K" and check Jerry Hossom's forum - He has written about how he sharpens with one.
 
All great advice so far. FDon't poke and look ,long smooth confident grinds with a very light touch. You have the most important tool of stock removal knife making. All you need is a angle grinder with a cutoff wheel for cutting blanks and a dremel for finishing work and yu can start making knives. Buy some annealed steel like 1095 and send it away for heat treat and start with some small simple knives or throwing stars. Have a look at a cold steel tru flight thrower, I bet you could make one in 2 weeks from now?
 
1095 can be heat treated at home with a propane torch and a toaster oven.
Bill
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top