Belt strop vs. wood block strop

L

lawnica1

Joined
Nov 26, 2012
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This may have already been asked in which case a link to the post would be greatly appreciated, but for some reason the search bar isn't working for me.

What differences are there between a belt and wood block strop? Is there advantages to one or the other? I just ordered a spyderco paramiltary 2 and realized I have been neglecting my other blades lately (as in I can't pop arm hairs with them). I tried stropping with a piece of thin leather I had laying around and compound on a smooth cutting board and I think it made the blade shiner but the edge duller lol.

Needless to say I don't think it was the right setup (I imagine because the leather is pretty soft).
 
If you made the blade duller you most likely rounded the apex, with soft leather you really have to be careful to not use ANY pressure. My preference is for hard/compressed leather (I use old tack [horse equipment] leather) for my strops.

Check out this thread, should help you out.
 
lawnica1 said:
What differences are there between a belt and wood block strop? Is there advantages to one or the other? .
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The primary difference is that one is for a beveled edge and the other for a convex edge. Simple as that.

A belt strop, such as a Barber's strop, will give a slightly convexed edge. A strop mounted on a block will, providing the leather is properly processed, produce a good flat beveled edge if your technique is correct.

There is a place for both in the sharpening system.


Stitchawl
 
For stropping on leather, here's a good link explaining the fundamentals of angle & pressure, with an excellent visual aid. Probably the best place to start. It's applicable to stropping overall, regardless of whether using a belt/hanging strop, or a firmly-backed bench strop:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/750008-Stropping-angle-plus-pressure

Generally speaking, an angle that's too steep, or pressure that's too hard on conformable (soft) backing, or a combination of these two will all degrade results. Beyond that, there are almost limitless possibilities in varying the stropping substrate (leather, fabric, paper, wood, etc.) and compounds used. Any one combination can produce good or great results, if the fundamentals of technique are good and the compounds used are smartly chosen for the steel being sharpened. Take some time to browse the Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment forum (you're there now, if you're reading this) for all things sharpening. More often than not, many threads will actively discuss both aspects, of sharpening on stones, and stropping edges afterward. Lots to read & digest...

Personally, I can & will use either of belt/hanging or hard-backed strops. The hard-backed variations in particular can be built & fine-tuned to specific needs, for specific steels and preferred edge finishes. Hanging strops, like a simple leather belt used in 'barber-style' fashion (hanging/supported at upper end, held in free hand at lower end), can be great for very quick, on-the-go touching up as needed. One specific thing I like about a hanging strop, it's sort of 'self-regulating' with regard to use of pressure. Since it's not hard-backed, it's a little harder to exert too-heavy pressure while using it. Pressing too hard just makes the whole thing deflect away from the blade, which minimizes how much the leather compresses under the pressure of the blade. Makes a difference in applying the very last, light passes to gently clean sharpening debris away from a fine edge, without rolling the edge over or dulling it.


David
 
Thanks Cereal_Killer I saw that thread and it confirmed my suspicion of rounding the apex. I could see the leather form around the trailing edge (its a really soft leather) that's why I want to buy something better. I am totally for making one, but I cant find good wood and leather for cheaper than what seems like a decent strop on amazon ($15 price range).

Also I don't think it helps that I don't have the leather glued down so it kind of catches and bunches up as I drag the blade. I thought I wasn't pressing hard but Ill try and go even lighter.
 
I've tried backing but I have better luck with a hanging strop. I use an old belt I picked up at Good Will a few years back. I don't know how long its supposed to last but its worn in good and smooth and works well. Once and a while I scrape it with a knife blade or hit it with sandpaper to refresh it.
 
lawnica1 said:
........ but I cant find good wood and leather for cheaper than what seems like a decent strop on amazon ($15 price range). .....
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I shudder to think what may be sold on Amazon as a pre-made strop for $15...
The price is great, but I doubt it's anything more than a piece of unprocessed leather glued to a board. Without the proper processing, you may as well send that $15 to Texas Knifemaker's Supply and get a 12"x12" piece of veg-tanned cowhide and cut it into four strops. But give them an extra 15-20 minutes work in the kitchen processing the leather and you can turn them into very good quality strops!


Stitchawl
 
FTR-14c said:
I've tried backing but I have better luck with a hanging strop. I use an old belt I picked up at Good Will a few years back. I don't know how long its supposed to last but its worn in good and smooth and works well. Once and a while I scrape it with a knife blade or hit it with sandpaper to refresh it.
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Have you tried a hand held paddle type strop? Its a combination of attributes- gives you a hard backing but allows you to hold it at an angle comfy for you.
 
Cereal_killer said:
Have you tried a hand held paddle type strop? Its a combination of attributes- gives you a hard backing but allows you to hold it at an angle comfy for you.
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I have glued leather and loaded cardboard to paddle shaped wood backing and had OK results. My belt hangs over the right corner of my work bench. When I use it I stretch it over the bench to the left and hold it up few inches. If I want a solid backing I can lay it flat on the bench and stretch it. If that makes any sense?

I guess if I practiced with backing I would figure it out but I am happy with my set up.

Let me add that I have a leather belt for my 1x30 sander that works like a dream. So that does most of the work. I finish with a few passes on the hanging strop and use it for light touch ups.
 
FTR-14c said:
I have glued leather and loaded cardboard to paddle shaped wood backing and had OK results. My belt hangs over the right corner of my work bench. When I use it I stretch it over the bench to the left and hold it up few inches. If I want a solid backing I can lay it flat on the bench and stretch it. If that makes any sense?

I guess if I practiced with backing I would figure it out but I am happy with my set up.

Let me add that I have a leather belt for my 1x30 sander that works like a dream. So that does most of the work. I finish with a few passes on the hanging strop and use it for light touch ups.
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I'm not telling you to change anything, if you get the results your after doing it your way perfect but the reason I mentioned using a paddle shaped backing is sorta along the same principle the sharpmaker works-

You can hold the strop at the angle you want and then hold the knife horizontal and maintain your angle that way.

Again just a suggestion, something you may want to try, but I'm not at all saying your way is wrong.
 
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