BElts on the way for my new KMG...any hints on cleaning up grinds with a graphite pad

[blgoode]

I have had good luck so far but need help on my finishing grits...any hints someone can give I will be indebt to forever....or atleast a little while

I have a graphite pad comming...will this help?

 

[Plain ol Bill]

The platen as furnished on the KMG is fine - if I were to put something on mine it would (and will) be pyroceram. It is a personal thing, but I don't want any give in my platen like a graphite pad would give.

 

[Sando]

Cleaning up grinds? If I understand you, you want straight grind lines? No little waves? Graphite belting isn't going to help or hurt. The harder the platen the crisper the line. But soft or hard won't help a wavy line.

Here's what I do after the rough grinding is done:

1. Get the blade lightly on the platen.
2. Use the free-hand thumb for pressure and keep it over the platen
3. Now twist the blade so it's at an angle - tip down, handle up.
4. Now pull up.

What you've done is made the belt 4 or 5 inches wide rather than 2. This will average out the grind line. Trouble is those dang plunge cuts.

One other thing is I now keep a thumb over the platen and pull the blade with the other hand. If all your pressure is centered over the platen your less likely to dig divits into the grind line.

Just my method, everyone has to work out what works for them.

Steve

 

[Mike Hull]

Bill is right, graphite pads won't help to give you sharp grind lines, in fact the opposite is usually true.
Pyroceram is the way to go.

 

[indian george]

Bill is right, graphite pads won't help to give you sharp grind lines, in fact the opposite is usually true.
Pyroceram is the way to go.

I agree with the Pyroceram. I use it on my KMG.I also like to use a J-Flex belts.

 

[blgoode]

My main trouble so far is that the finer grits just still seem to get too deep on my craftsman grinder. I thought that my grits may be cutting too deep due to how fast those suckers run.....

I think I will have pretty good luck getting my grinds straight when I can use the 1 1/2 hp. motor so it wont bog down like the 1/2 hp craftsman does.

I cant wait for the KMG.....

At what belt speed do most run these on?

I have the 3 step pully so I will be able to slow her down going to finer detail stuff.

I have 60, 240, 400, and 800 grits on the way.

I got them from Pops so I hope he gives me j flex type for the finer grits.


THanks for the help guys.

 

[Daniel Koster]

That was going to be my suggestion, Brian.

I run my 220+ grit belts at significantly slower speeds. Maybe around 600-1200 rpm max. (vs. 2500-4500 when hogging).

Add my vote for the J-flex belts.

 

[indian george]

My main trouble so far is that the finer grits just still seem to get too deep on my craftsman grinder. I thought that my grits may be cutting too deep due to how fast those suckers run.....

I think I will have pretty good luck getting my grinds straight when I can use the 1 1/2 hp. motor so it wont bog down like the 1/2 hp craftsman does.

I cant wait for the KMG.....

At what belt speed do most run these on?

I have the 3 step pully so I will be able to slow her down going to finer detail stuff.

I have 60, 240, 400, and 800 grits on the way.

I got them from Pops so I hope he gives me j flex type for the finer grits.


THanks for the help guys.

If you didn't ask for them I doubt if you got them. Look on the back of them I think it is marked.

 

[ddavelarsen]

For me, variable speed is the biggest help. Slowing down as the grits get finer will also extend belt life. Use a light touch when you're cleaning up. Touch the edge of the knife to the platen lightly then lay the entire flat on the platen and apply pressure evenly. This will help keep your grind lines straight and any small divots in the edge will come out later. Like Steve I apply pressure with one hand and move the blade with my other hand. I hesitate to grind at too much of an angle because I inevitably knock the corners off the ricasso. But grinding succeeding grits at a slightly different angle helps to ensure you get all the lines from the previous grit. This is easier to do than to write about!

I'm amazed no one has said, "Practice, practice, practice"! What's also good is doing a lot of grinding at once - if you're on a good day. On those days you really have the touch, it pays to grind everything in sight.

 

[blgoode]

thanks guys......Your right Dave. This IS harder to write about than do.......then again on some days I talk about it better than I can extcute

I have a call in to Pops fot the j-flex....

 

[Mike Hull]

You might try getting some 1/4" thick lattice strips from the lumber yard.
Lay out your patterns on those, profile, and grind the bevels just like they were steel.
You can do countless wood "knives" this way with just one 60 grit belt.
The grinding goes quick so it teaches you control, but saves you money till you feel you can duplicate your grinding on regular blade steel.

Sell your wooden ones to the local kids for their lunch money.

 

[blgoode]

sounds like a plan mike....I can get 1/4" luan where I work. That will be my plan of attack!!!!