Belts that can handle wet grinding.

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Blankblank

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I am wondering what belts definitively can, and can't handle wet grinding. I think it could be helpful to have a thread for the information.

Ones I'm particularly interested in are hermes j-flex belts. Because ive seen some conflicting info on j-flex working while wet grind, or some basically flying apart after getting wet.

I know just about any of the heavy backed ceramic low grit belts as are fine to wet grind with, though if some aren't maybe it could be helpful to others if it was shared.

I know the trizact gator grit belts with the red backing can't be used for wet grinding, but one of the ones with the white backing can. Norax as far as i know don't like getting wet either.

Ive actually had good experience running scotchbrite belts wet when I've tried doing that.

Anyway, if anyone has any info they would like to ad it would be much appreciated by me, and likely others. And specifically about the jflex thing. Since I've noticed they can be very ineffective for what I do without coolant for various reasons.
 
Norax Ceramic are nice when wet, regular Norax lose chunks of abrasive when run wet. I made that mistake before!

I use the Hermes J Flex ceramics (Ceramit, green grit and yellow backer or green and greyish backer. The greyish backer is thicker/stiffer) in 120 and 220 and run them wet, no issues. Same with Pops Blue Ceramic Flex belts; they are fine when wet.

Red backed Gators need to be dry or the grit falls off. White backed Gators and the Ceramic Trizacts run fine when wet. The coarser Ceramic VSM's I have used have all been OK when wet. I even run the VSM compact grain "game changers" wet as well with no issues.

Scotchbrite/non woven abrasives are fine when wet, but I usually use WD40 on them :)

What limitations are you having with a 2x72?? I use a radius platen with a leather face, glass platens, mild steel platens, leather platens and 2 different firmness felt platens (F3 and S2-32 Super Hard felt) and am able to get very nice belt finishes on a wide variety of blades!

When thin belts are run wet, they feel softer and more fragile, especially if a tip or edge gets caught on them.
 
Taz said:
Norax Ceramic are nice when wet, regular Norax lose chunks of abrasive when run wet. I made that mistake before!

I use the Hermes J Flex ceramics (Ceramit, green grit and yellow backer or green and greyish backer. The greyish backer is thicker/stiffer) in 120 and 220 and run them wet, no issues. Same with Pops Blue Ceramic Flex belts; they are fine when wet.

Red backed Gators need to be dry or the grit falls off. White backed Gators and the Ceramic Trizacts run fine when wet. The coarser Ceramic VSM's I have used have all been OK when wet. I even run the VSM compact grain "game changers" wet as well with no issues.

Scotchbrite/non woven abrasives are fine when wet, but I usually use WD40 on them :)

What limitations are you having with a 2x72?? I use a radius platen with a leather face, glass platens, mild steel platens, leather platens and 2 different firmness felt platens (F3 and S2-32 Super Hard felt) and am able to get very nice belt finishes on a wide variety of blades!

When thin belts are run wet, they feel softer and more fragile, especially if a tip or edge gets caught on them.
Click to expand...

hi Taz,

I don't have speed control in my motor, its single phase 240v - that's number 1. Number 2 I like thin hard knives and when i get down to 10 thou ish at the edge the metal is disappearing much to fast for my liking and I am forever dipping into the water to stop it overheating. Your comments on platens just prove that I don't even flipping know what I need!
 
Way-Barney said:
hi Taz,

I don't have speed control in my motor, its single phase 240v - that's number 1. Number 2 I like thin hard knives and when i get down to 10 thou ish at the edge the metal is disappearing much to fast for my liking and I am forever dipping into the water to stop it overheating. Your comments on platens just prove that I don't even flipping know what I need!
Click to expand...

Maybe grind out your blades as best you can, then hand grind your final edges on a diamond plate, as to not over heat your edge.
 
Ah, gotcha! Get some EDM stones. They work much faster than sandpaper and can work really well to get nice, thin edges! Or use pulleys to slow the belts way down. Or save up for a 3 phase 2 hp motor and a chinese VFD and just mount the VFD away from the grinder or inside of a box to keep the dust out of it. Variable speed makes it so much easier! I started with the Grizzly 2x72 that was blazing fast and only went to 120-220 grit belts and then scotchbrite or hand sanding from there because it was way too fast otherwise!
 
Blankblank said:
I am wondering what belts definitively can, and can't handle wet grinding. I think it could be helpful to have a thread for the information.

Ones I'm particularly interested in are hermes j-flex belts. Because ive seen some conflicting info on j-flex working while wet grind, or some basically flying apart after getting wet.

I know just about any of the heavy backed ceramic low grit belts as are fine to wet grind with, though if some aren't maybe it could be helpful to others if it was shared.

I know the trizact gator grit belts with the red backing can't be used for wet grinding, but one of the ones with the white backing can. Norax as far as i know don't like getting wet either.

Ive actually had good experience running scotchbrite belts wet when I've tried doing that.

Anyway, if anyone has any info they would like to ad it would be much appreciated by me, and likely others. And specifically about the jflex thing. Since I've noticed they can be very ineffective for what I do without coolant for various reasons.
Click to expand...

Sorry Blankblank for derailing your thread.
 
Taz said:
Ah, gotcha! Get some EDM stones. They work much faster than sandpaper and can work really well to get nice, thin edges! Or use pulleys to slow the belts way down. Or save up for a 3 phase 2 hp motor and a chinese VFD and just mount the VFD away from the grinder or inside of a box to keep the dust out of it. Variable speed makes it so much easier! I started with the Grizzly 2x72 that was blazing fast and only went to 120-220 grit belts and then scotchbrite or hand sanding from there because it was way too fast otherwise!
Click to expand...

Hi Taz,

You have talked me into it. :)

I have bit the bullet and bought a motor, sounds like a right deal. A chap bought it 10 year ago new and stuck it under his workbench as he thought it was single phase. 3.4 HP, 3Phase, 2850RPM, £100 top quality British made.
Now for cheapo VFD.
 
Nice!! Look for a vfd rated for more HP than your motor is rated for. Probably need a 4 or 5hp rated vfd.
 
You would want it set Lower than your motor ratings.
You probably aren't going to want to Pay for a 5hp drive....
Your drive determines how your motor runs, I doubt you will feel under equipped with a 2hp drive....or less.

Your drive Protects your motor
*edited/added.... You set the parameters in your drive for your motor, as to not burn it up


My 2Hp motor runs Great on my 1.5 hp drive

Shit would be on Fire, if I was trying to stall my set up.

I am Not under powered.
 
Last edited:
Crag the Brewer said:
You would want it set Lower than your motor ratings.
You probably aren't going to want to Pay for a 5hp drive....
Your drive determines how your motor runs, I doubt you will feel under equipped with a 2hp drive....or less.

Your drive Protects your motor


My 2Hp motor runs Great on my 1.5 hp drive

Shit would be on Fire, if I was trying to stall my set up.

I am Not under powered.
Click to expand...
Does the VFD reduce max RPM or Torque?
3HP is a lot
Lowest VFD over here seems to be 2.2KW or 3 hp
 
3hp is a Lot.....

Most people here, use less.

Your motor is high in rpm's you will need to be mindful of that.
Even with your drive.




You can usually set all kinds of limits.
Rpms
Hzs
Amps
Volts .
Ramp up/down. (Soft start) dwell
Etc
 
I will be out of my comfort zone there, I will have to see what instructions there are. I thought the VFD slowed down the speed but kept the HP the same.
 
A vfd makes your motor able to slow down, and through most of its speed range it will keep most of its power.

When you get really slow it won't though, it'll gradually lose torque as you go slower and slower.
 
3kw 4 hp vfd run around $130-$150 USD on Amazon. You can also use a 4" drive wheel to slow it down a bit. I noticed I lost a TON of torque at slow speeds when I went from a 4" drive wheel to a 6" drive wheel. I got more top speed, but lower speeds bog down easily.
 
picked up the motor today and the VFD is here, messed up a bit really as the VFD will work with 240 in and 240 out, looking forward to having a reverse switch, that will be good. I now have two spare 2HP motors. I think I will build a dedicated surface grinder, eventually........
 
Way-Barney said:
Sorry Blankblank for derailing your thread.
Click to expand...
Yeah the vfd helps. But wet grinding is essential for going under 10 thou. All the blades i do are down to zero, then i sharpen leaving depending on the blade 2.5-4 thou thickness behind the edge.

But with speed control alone i dont have much confidence i could pull it off. At least not on steels like 10v, that tend to kill belts fast.
 
Since its a thread about wet grinding and i recommended starting to wet grind

I think i should bring up what i use currently.

Look up. Orbit 10198 Outdoor Misting Sidewinder 1/4-Inch Flexible Mist Stand on amazon.

It just attaches to a water hose. It makes it really convenient if you dont feel like getting an air compressor to hook up and have a mister. But instead of using the mist thing that it comes with, i cut that off and its basically more like flood cooling.
 
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