Benchmade 810 Contego M4 Blade Finish

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Aug 23, 2012
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Merry Christmas !!

For those who own and have used their Benchmade 810 Contegos :confused:

Which blade finish is the better choice and why?

All Black or the Satin Cerakote Coated Plain Blade?

Thanks ;)
 
They both wear relatively easy. The black will probably be more noticeable with bare steel exposed. If BM would finish the steel better they wouldn't need a coating.
 
Best option right now is the upcoming KnifeWorks exclusive Contego 810-1401 with an uncoated M390 blade steel for only $17 more than the regular Contego!
 
I'm just trying to decide between the two with the M4 steel.
I do find for me that the black blades tend to end up being put away for that reason.

But will the Satin Cerakote Coated Plain Blade show scratches and wear just as much?
 
Best option right now is the upcoming KnifeWorks exclusive Contego 810-1401 with an uncoated M390 blade steel for only $17 more than the regular Contego!

I wonder if they will put out one with a green or red blended handle?
 
My satin Cerakote wore extremely fast, and I almost feel like a strong fingernail could scratch it. Check out the 810 Abuse Thread. Thread here.
 
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Hmm,

Sounds like it might be better to wait for the M390 version to come available.
How does the M4 compare to the D2 blade steel for showing wear and rust?

Thanks
 
The M4 is great stuff. I like it better than the D2. It is the coating on the M4 that is the problem. As far as rust goes I could not really say. The basic care I use prevents rust on all the non-stainless steels I own.

EDIT: OK, just pulled the trigger on the Contego 810-1401 with "found" funds. Really looking forward to this one. Would love to know when they may be shipping these out.
 
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The M4 is great stuff. I like it better than the D2. It is the coating on the M4 that is the problem. As far as rust goes I could not really say. The basic care I use prevents rust on all the non-stainless steels I own.

Do you hose down your knives with WD40? I have done that to a few after checking with the manufacture first ;)
 
Do you hose down your knives with WD40? I have done that to a few after checking with the manufacture first ;)

If I use WD it's for the solvent qualities. It lubricates about as good as spit in the long run. I use a wide variety of lubricants depending on knife use. Bottom line is that I always clean them and make sure they are dry. Even if you just clean them with water and wipe them down they will probably not rust. Any patinas are by my own design. Sure there may be some minor spotting sometimes but a quick rub with most metal polishes removes and protects from it recurring.
 
Thanks,

I read where WD40 is basically fish oil. So it should do a pretty good job of cleaning some things.

Especially where you can't get to without taking the knife apart.

Thanks Again
 
Someone took their 810 blade in recent weeks and removed the coating, and the blade looked really great! With the new M390 version coming, that will solve a lot of problems. I understand M4 needs protection, but why is the Cerakote so fragile?
 
Someone took their 810 blade in recent weeks and removed the coating, and the blade looked really great! With the new M390 version coming, that will solve a lot of problems. I understand M4 needs protection, but why is the Cerakote so fragile?

Joe,

I wouldn't say that CPM-M4 needs to be coated. I have a couple folders in that steel both with a nice satin finish, polished to some extent. There is no indication of rust on them and they have been used. It might be a measure used to calm and quell the misinformed concerned that some folks have about it being a rust magnet; as well as make the knife overall more maintenance free across the board. It will rust of course, but in my own experience it would have to be pretty well neglected. I've had O-1 tool steel rust more readily than CPM-M4, under the exact same conditions. In any case, some degree of maintenance should be taken to any tools a person uses. As for the Cerakote being fragile, I have no idea. It might have adhered better if the steel had a blasted/porous finish rather than a standard satin like finish. Hard to say, but I've seen it flake off of treated ARs & guns without much direct abrasion. I much prefer a well done DLC coating to any of the Cerakote finishes. One other thing to note, due to medication, environmental factors, and I guess genetics some folks have very acidic body chemistry. They can oxidixe just about any metal with the oils left behind by their hands. We've read threads about this on here, members managed to corrode stop pins, liners, and in some cases the handle screws pretty good simply by means of pocket sweat.
 
Thanks,

I read where WD40 is basically fish oil. So it should do a pretty good job of cleaning some things.

Especially where you can't get to without taking the knife apart.

Thanks Again

Yes, WD is a pretty good cleaner. Unfortunately after drying it leaves a varnish like residue. It is 50% specially blended mineral oil. The makers claim that there is no fish oil in the product. Here is a fact sheet on it from the maker. http://wd40.com/about-us/myths-legends-fun-facts/
 
If anyone uses a knife for eating food, I would steer far and clear from anything like WD-40, which is a solvent and can't be good for our digestion. If there's a need I use food-grade mineral oil as a protectant and/or nothing at all.
 
Yes, body chemistry. No matter how much water I drink when I had my CPM-M4 mini grip in my work pants it would come out rusty. I tried a lot to protect it and it would still rust. Regular carry it never rusts for me. Just the all day work where the pockets really do fill with sweat.

Kevin

Joe,

I wouldn't say that CPM-M4 needs to be coated. I have a couple folders in that steel both with a nice satin finish, polished to some extent. There is no indication of rust on them and they have been used. It might be a measure used to calm and quell the misinformed concerned that some folks have about it being a rust magnet; as well as make the knife overall more maintenance free across the board. It will rust of course, but in my own experience it would have to be pretty well neglected. I've had O-1 tool steel rust more readily than CPM-M4, under the exact same conditions. In any case, some degree of maintenance should be taken to any tools a person uses. As for the Cerakote being fragile, I have no idea. It might have adhered better if the steel had a blasted/porous finish rather than a standard satin like finish. Hard to say, but I've seen it flake off of treated ARs & guns without much direct abrasion. I much prefer a well done DLC coating to any of the Cerakote finishes. One other thing to note, due to medication, environmental factors, and I guess genetics some folks have very acidic body chemistry. They can oxidixe just about any metal with the oils left behind by their hands. We've read threads about this on here, members managed to corrode stop pins, liners, and in some cases the handle screws pretty good simply by means of pocket sweat.
 
If anyone uses a knife for eating food, I would steer far and clear from anything like WD-40, which is a solvent and can't be good for our digestion. If there's a need I use food-grade mineral oil as a protectant and/or nothing at all.

I would also add to this to wear some sort of gloves (synthetic), the chemicals that can seep into your skin are not good. Once in your system you can never rid yourself of it.
 
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