Benchmade AFCK in D2 w/ axis lock

sloth357

sloth357

Platinum m0f0
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Jan 5, 2011
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Hi. I received this AFCK a year or 2 ago in fairly beatup condition. The blade was stone washed by prior owner to apparently cover up some deep pits near the tip, or deep chips, on the face of the blade. The edge was poor and the tip not so pointy. Oh and it was a partially serrated blade.

So I decided it was time to clean it up, and found that those chips were very obvious when the stone wash finish was removed... I decided to re-profile the edge and remove the serrations.

I convexed this one side completely to zero edge, got rid of all pits/chips in the front, made it pointy as a pin, and the reverse side I made the main bevel a flat grind with micro bevel.

I left it two toned, mostly, save the one spot I messed up near the "hole", where my sanding moved up a bit too high, oh well.. I'm not getting paid for this and it's a user.. so, I'll deal with that bit of slop.

Here is the one side:


8Hnrzfu.jpg



I might do new scales for it... We'll see.

For sure I need to polish it down even more, as the machining marks on BM blades run deep.. and you can barely see in this photo I didn't get down enough to remove them completely.

Show your AFCK mods YOU have done. No pro-mod jobs please :)
 
Looks nice. I'm surprise it isn't obvious that you removed the serrations.

What happened to the width of the edge shoulders when you removed that much metal?
 
Looks nice. I'm surprised it isn't obvious that you removed the serrations.

What happened to the width of the edge when you moved the edge that far up the blade?
 
Hey. Due to convexing one side and then making the other side a true flat bevel, the blade became a bit more short (from spine to edge distance), with about the same thickness as the original knife. It's still as robust as before, cuts better, and now I just strop it lightly on both sides.

Basically I allowed the blade to become a slight recurve and thinned the front half of the blade the most to "catch up" to the serrated part.

Started with a belt grinder and lots of cooling time/water, then used diamond stones on both sides. For continuing the convexed side with diamond stones, I would push and then twist the blade to try to get as much of the curved surface area per pass as possible, hopefully keeping it consistent. Then I went to mouse pad with sand paper ( for the convex side) and then 3 lvls of stropping to try to remove the rest of the BM machine marks which was the hardest part of it all!

Even the false edge was made to be true flat and shiny to help make the two tone thing pop more...
 
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