Benchmade D2 - Hows the Corrosion Resistance?

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Brad24

Joined
Mar 13, 2008
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Hey guys, I'm looking at picking up a BM 907 in D2 to EDC but, living in Florida where the humidity is always through the roof, I don't want to have to worry about the uncoated blade rusting on me - would this be likely? I used to EDC an S30V native and I'd cut fruits and sushi, rinse the blade off with water, wipe it off, and it never showed even a hint of rust. How does D2 compare to this? 154CM? I have a brand new 670 Apparition in 154CM right now that I am tempted to carry but I think I am going to sell it because its a little heavy and my large hands find the grip a little small - would this in reality be a better florida choice? Please shed some light on the common benchmade steels (and maybe a comparison to some spydie VG-10 with regards solely to corrosion / rust resistance). Thanks!
 
Unfortunately D2 is not very corrosive resistant. Rust and discoloration can develop quite easily in high humidity areas if you don't keep the knife blade clean and oil it regularly. If you keep the blade fairly clan over a day's use and then rub a little mineral oil on the blade when you get home from the daily grind then your blade can last a lifetime without being tainted by corrosion. It's all about upkeep.
 
D2 is stain resistant, has a lot of chromium, but not stainless.
To me it is worth it though, D2 holds a edge much better.
I use my 913 in a marine environment, and just keep it clean
and lubed with mineral oil. (I use it on fish and produce a lot.)
I had a 670 but like the 913 much better.

Also see the thread on AO knives..

-Ron
 
I own a Benchmade 201 Activator fixed blade in D2 and live in tropical northern Australia. The heat and humidity here is really bad this time of year. This is the first wet season I have been through with this knife and have experienced no corrosion problems. I always clean the blade after use and usually leave the knife stored in its sheath (yes I know that I shouldn't). It is far more stain/corrosion resistant than carbon steel knives such as 1095 or CV. As for a comparison with VG-10, I have a few Spydercos in VG-10 and have never had corrosion problems with them. In theory they should be better than D2 but in practice I have not found D2 to be a problem, so to me the difference is academic.
 
I have a BM D2 fixed blade me and my wife use in the kitchen all the time. I am careful to wipe it down etc but there have been many times when she has not and i find it hours later after she had been using it to cut vegetables and there isn't any corrosion, a little discoloration but that's all. I'll stand by D2 as a near-stainless steel and would recommend it highly.
 
its only one percent off (13 vs 12), and when I　ｓｔｉｌｌ　ｈａｄ　ｍｙ　７１０　ｉｔ　ｎｅｖｅｒ　ｅｖｅｒ　ｒｕｓｔｅｄ　ｏｎ　ｍｅ
 
I find D2 to be very rust resistant. The only steel I ever have trouble with here (DFW area Texas) seems to be VG10. I have no idea why.
 
my 710 iwith the coating is fine. The 710 w/o a coating is fine too but I dont use it as much:)
 
knarfeng said:
That would be because D2 is not considered stainless.
Click to expand...

i_am_ninja said:
its only one percent off (13 vs 12), and when I　ｓｔｉｌｌ　ｈａｄ　ｍｙ　７１０　ｉｔ　ｎｅｖｅｒ　ｅｖｅｒ　ｒｕｓｔｅｄ　ｏｎ　ｍｅ
Click to expand...

That depends upon whose D2 you use.
Carpenter lists 12%.
Crucible lists 11.5%
AISI says it can have as little as 11%

Plus it has a walloping load of Carbon turning a bunch of that chromium into carbides. Chomium Carbide does not help in forming a stable oxide layer that will resist corrosion.

In this case, materials engineer trumps ninja.

I repeat: D2 is not considered stainless.
 
I have a 710D2 w/o the coating. I live in a maritime environment, where the humidity is reasonably high, and I haven't had any problems yet. I don't keep oil on the blade, since I use it on food and I'm regularly carving up apples with it, but I rinse and wipe it down after every use, and it hasn't so much as discolored slightly.
 
Knarfeng, there have been various definitions of 'stainless steel' as far as Cr content. We certainly have to call D2 a semi-stainless steel at least. There is also a variaton depending on HT, and surface condition.D2 of coarse was developed as a tool steel not a knife steel.
If you're really worried about corrosion get one made of H1.
 
A Benchmade 806D2 was my constant companion for at least five years. If I was wearing pants it was in my pocket. I am a VERY sweaty person and I have extremely corrosive sweat. Until I bought a titanium watch I had to buy a new watch every two years because my perspiration would literally corrode the metal case and pit it so much that it would cut my wrist.

My D2 Benchmade, which spent all summer in my sweat soaked work pants doesn't show a speck of corrosion.

As the previous poster said, if you're that worried about corrosion then buy an H1 Spyderco.
 
mete said:
Knarfeng, there have been various definitions of 'stainless steel' as far as Cr content. We certainly have to call D2 a semi-stainless steel at least. There is also a variaton depending on HT, and surface condition.D2 of coarse was developed as a tool steel not a knife steel.
If you're really worried about corrosion get one made of H1.
Click to expand...


mete,
I was responding to the post below.

I agree that it is "semi-stainless". It is not "stainless".

Frank

johnu2 said:
D2 is one of the most easily to rust of the stainless steels
Click to expand...
 
D2 definitely boarders the line between carbon and stainless. Surface finish has a lot to do with it rusting or not. I have an satin 710 that has never rusted even though I've worn it when I fell in the water and did not clean the blade until later that day. The 710 has a very nice polished finish with a very light shot blast. I also have a Benchmade Nitrous Stryker that has a very fine sandblasted finish (worst area to cut cost in my opinion). The Stryker showed about 10 small spots of discoloration (not quite what I'd call a rust spot, but brown splotches) on the first weekend I used it. I was camping and it was raining, but it did not get nearly as wet as my 710.
 
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