Benchmade Griptilian sharpening

[Twinecutter]

I recently purchased a Benchmade Griptilian. I have done a lot of sharpening over the last few years but would like everyone's recommendations and thoughts.

What is the inclusive angle on the Griptilian and would it be a keeper?

The knife came with a very coarse grind. Should I keep it or polish it up?

What would be a good grit to use? (As my name implies, I cut a lot of bailing twine since I raise pigs and maintenance their pens.)
Did anyone notice whether the knife comes
with a microbevel? I did not look at it before sharpening, but I now see a hairline edge at the Apex. I can't tell if it's a microbevel or a highly polished strip of the primary. Something a strip might do?
Thoughts? Recommendations?

 

[Twinecutter]

Typo on the last paragraph. The second "strip" should say "strop"

 

[ecallahan]

What steel? I have my two Doug Ritter mini grips at 30° inclusive finished on a finer diamond stone (Venev 800) and it works great for camping chores. Holds the edge well. Mine are S30V and M390. I see you asked what the original angle was, I don’t remember but probably around 40° inclusive.

 

[Twinecutter]

Sorry. It is 154cm steel. For the sharpener I have the work sharp guided sharpening system with the upgrade kit. Nice little system.

 

[Alberta Ed]

I find BM's 154CM in my Grippie a bear to sharpen -- I don't know why. Same goes for my Emerson. I have a Cabella's Grippie in D2 that takes a fantastic edge (same for my BM 710). The factory edge is likely made using a coarse belt, then finished on a wheel, which accounts for the apparent micro-bevel. I sharpen freehand and can get a hair-popping edge on 154 CM, but it seems to take a long time even on diamond hones. For your cutting purposes, a coarse edge would probably work best.

 

[ecallahan]

Sorry. It is 154cm steel. For the sharpener I have the work sharp guided sharpening system with the upgrade kit. Nice little system.

I use a Worksharp to reprofile my knives to the angle I want, but I like to then sharpen a traditional V bevel on various stones, and maintain them that way.

 

[Twinecutter]

I find BM's 154CM in my Grippie a bear to sharpen -- I don't know why. Same goes for my Emerson. I have a Cabella's Grippie in D2 that takes a fantastic edge (same for my BM 710). The factory edge is likely made using a coarse belt, then finished on a wheel, which accounts for the apparent micro-bevel. I sharpen freehand and can get a hair-popping edge on 154 CM, but it seems to take a long time even on diamond hones. For your cutting purposes, a coarse edge would probably work best.

My thoughts on why your 154cm is hard to sharpen is playing with pressure. Since it is softer than d2, you may need to lighten the pressure. I like sharpening 154cm and my Spyderco delica4 with be vg10.

 

[Twinecutter]

I use a Worksharp to reprofile my knives to the angle I want, but I like to then sharpen a traditional V bevel on various stones, and maintain them that way.

For your info the work sharp I have is not a belt, but a interchangeable diamond bench stone with x-coarse, coarse, fine, x-fine and a little strop. I also have Arkansas stones in coarse, med and fine.

 

[jux t]

I've also had a very hard time sharpening my 154cm grip using bench stones. I gave it to my cousin before I bought diamond stones, maybe they would have been better suited.

Edit: Also, the tip on that grip chipped off during normal use. Maybe it was hardened more than it should have been.

 

[Twinecutter]

I've also had a very hard time sharpening my 154cm grip using bench stones. I gave it to my cousin before I bought diamond stones, maybe they would have been better suited.

Edit: Also, the tip on that grip chipped off during normal use. Maybe it was hardened more than it should have been.

By broken at the top, do you mean the edge area of the tip or more the body of the knife? If it was the edge, maybe you used too much pressure when sharpening and made it brittle.

 

[ecallahan]

For your info the work sharp I have is not a belt, but a interchangeable diamond bench stone with x-coarse, coarse, fine, x-fine and a little strop. I also have Arkansas stones in coarse, med and fine.

I see. I assumed the belt driven model.

 

[Twinecutter]

I do

I see. I assumed the belt driven model.

I don't use belts. It heats the edge more than need be and ruins edge retention.

 

[jux t]

By broken at the top, do you mean the edge area of the tip or more the body of the knife? If it was the edge, maybe you used too much pressure when sharpening and made it brittle.

The very tip chipped off before it needed sharpened. Not a huge chunk but enough to make it unable to dig out splinters for example.

 

[Twinecutter]

Sure. What I would have done would be to contact the Benchmade warranty department. They might have been able to help you since you said it was through normal use. They have a lifetime warranty and lifesharp guarrantee on their products.