Benchmade Griptilian

gull wing

gull wing

Joined
May 4, 2002
Messages
2,536
I recentaly accquired a 551 Griptilian drop point, PE. There is a lot to like about this knife, like the nice large handle. The great Axis lock is so smooth
and locks up tight. Blade is centered with no wobble. The blade is very nicely done.

I do have an issue with the grind though. I was not able to cut much of anything I normally cut. On mikeing the edge I found it about .030", which is ok, but I prefer thinner. I used my Edge Pro to sharpen her up (this is a pre-owned knife in good condition and still had the factory edge). To match the factory angle was 30 degrees (I usually grind my knives 24 to 18 degrees).
After sharpening, it cut a little better but not near what I require. I suppose I could re-profile edge, but that means taking a lot of metal away.

I wonder, are all Griptilians like this one? If so, what do other people cut with them? I use my knives on small limbs, wood, cardboard boxes. The Grip is very hard to push thru these. I want to like this knife, but with kind of cutting preformance, I don't know.
 
As a newbie, when I see threads like this I realize how much lower my standards are than some or most of my fellow forumites. I'm embarrased to admit that I sharpened my Griptilians on my 204 Sharpmaker and used the recommended 40 degree setting. I've cut cardboard with it and it seems to work fine. There must be higher levels of peforance I've never even experienced. I've got to start aiming higher. :o
 
Keith, I assume that Gull Wing is talking about the honing angle per side. So when he is talking about a factory angle of "30 degrees" it is equivalent to a Sharpmaker edge angle of 60 degrees (which is not even an option). I assume that you reprofiled your Griptilians down to 20 degrees per side (40 degree Sharpmaker setting) which is a lot thinner than the factory edge. Your performance standards are not so low after all.

I wouldn't worry about the issue in the slightest. I would reprofile the edge down to about 12 degrees per side and finish the edge mostly at 15 degrees per side with a few finishing strokes at 20 degrees. That baby will do much better.

One reason that many people are satisfied with the factory edge is that they have never used a knife that cut much better.
 
Thanks Jeff,
I will take the edge down when I have some time. By the way, I used the Sharpmaker first and could not get a burr on it, the factory angle was too steep even for the Sharpmaker to tackle.

Yes , the angle I speak of is one side only. It has got to do better than this.
I will give it a try.
 
My Griptilian MDP stood up to two months of everyday use opening letters, cutting cardboard and slicing a pack of vegetables or two before I had to give it a ride with my Sharpmaker. I use a 30 degree angle more or less and it has worked just fine so far, it takes only about a minute and then the blade is shaving sharp again.
 
The Grip is a good knife. Should slice fine for you once you take down that edge a little. After that if the slicing ability is still not up to your standards get a Spyderco Calypso Jr., Military, or Lil' Temperance. They are the best slicers I can think of.
-Kevin
 
This is one of my main complaints with nearly all factory knives (Spydercos being a notable exception). Their edges are always too thick for my standards as well. That's why the first time I put them on the Edge Pro it usually takes an hour or more to get a good edge! The results, however, are well worth it. :)
 
This is an interesting thread for me, I've been giving some thought to getting a griptillian as my next knife.

If I do get one it will be sharpened, when required, on my Sharpmaker. What angle does the BM come out of the box sharpened at? Am I going to have to do a lot of reprofiling on my Sharpmaker when I need to sharpen the blade for the first time? How hard is the steel, am I going to be grinding away for hours to get the angle right? Will I need to buy the diamond rods for the Sharpmaker?
 
I reprofiled my Griptilian on my Sharpmaker just yesterday and it didn't take too long at all. Basically, I thinned it out on the 30 degree setting and then once I had it where I wanted it, I moved onto the 40 degree setting. I've used my Griptilian quite extensively before, and while the 440C blade held a relatively good edge, it was surprisingly easy to reprofile.
 
440C shouldn't be difficult to reprofile, if it's too much for the Sharpmaker then a $10 benchstone should do the trick just fine.
 
Had the same problem with a BM710HS, the factory edge was too thick for my liking, reprofiled to 30 degree and put a 40 degree edge to finish. Reprofiling to 30 degrees on the sharpmaker took about 5 - 6 hours, would have used a my diamond benchstone but too difficult to maintain accuracy on the recurve blade ( for me ).
Well worth the effort, the end result has at least doubled the blades cutting ability, also improves the appearance of the edge by removing the factory grind marks.
 
The 550 and 551 grip is built for tough use and comes with a thick blade. The main grind is also not very high to maintain the toughness. For a cutter the 555 mini grip is better but also very much smaller than the 1/2" blade length lets you think. Basically for the uses you mentioned you need a blade that is flat ground or have a very high main grind. Thin blades are also OK like those NT or Olfa push out snap off blades. But I think that the best production blade for your use is the Bark River forager in A2 carbin steel. The Cold steel trail guide l or m is also of the same quality.
 
All the Griptilians I own (both large and smaller versions) have had very sharp, thin edge bevels (not more than 15 degrees per side; sometimes even thinner). The edges hold up well to lots of cutting. However, on some tougher things, such a thin edge will tend to roll over or burr. Then I find I must lightly run the edge over my Sharpmaker on the 40 degree (20 each side) setting a few times and that makes the edge durable while remaining extremely sharp.

In fact, virtually all of my Benchmades since around the year 2000 have come with very sharp, thin edges out of the box. I did have to heavily reprofile an older version plain-edge Stryker and 730 which had edges that were way too thick. In recent years Benchmade addressed the problem of too-thick edges (common complaints in the late-'90s) and as far as my experience has been, they've done an outstanding job. I find their factory edges now are a match for my Spydercos and other factories known for extreme sharpness.
Jim
 
I have three Griptilians: a 555, 556 and 552.
I use a Sharpmaker on them. It was no problem to sharpen them for the first time with the Sharpmaker, major reprofiling was not needed . Just a few strokes with the coarse stones at 30 degrees and then to 40 degrees with the flat sides of the white stones.
Finally, I strop the edge with the pad of my thumb!!

Hair popping sharp.
 
Thank you all for the great responses, it is all I had hoped for.

I think I may have gotten a knife with an exceptionally steep bevel from the factory. I have never had a knife I could not put a burr on with the Sharpmaker, untill this one. Nevertheless, my Edge Pro can handle the re-profileing. I don't intend to spend more than an hour on it. I usually use the Sharpmaker as a "in between" tool with the Edge Pro to re-profile now and then as required.

I can see the necessity of thick blades, as in large fixed blades, camp knives, axes, but a folding knife should be able to cut easily. These are my own opinions and I respect all of yours, but I see I am not alone in my opinion.

Spydercos, I am very farmiliar with, own many. I especially like the Calypso Jr and the ParaMilitary, they are great cutters. I wanted to expand my horizons with the Griptilian and experience the Axis lock. I want to keep this knife and with a little work I think I can make it a keeper.
 
gull wing said:
Thank you all for the great responses, it is all I had hoped for.

I think I may have gotten a knife with an exceptionally steep bevel from the factory. I have never had a knife I could not put a burr on with the Sharpmaker, untill this one. Nevertheless, my Edge Pro can handle the re-profileing. I don't intend to spend more than an hour on it. I usually use the Sharpmaker as a "in between" tool with the Edge Pro to re-profile now and then as required.

I can see the necessity of thick blades, as in large fixed blades, camp knives, axes, but a folding knife should be able to cut easily. These are my own opinions and I respect all of yours, but I see I am not alone in my opinion.

Spydercos, I am very farmiliar with, own many. I especially like the Calypso Jr and the ParaMilitary, they are great cutters. I wanted to expand my horizons with the Griptilian and experience the Axis lock. I want to keep this knife and with a little work I think I can make it a keeper.
Click to expand...

Best of luck!
-Kevin
 
Thanks for setting me straight, Jeff. I guess I'm not so far off. I did use the 30 degree setting and then finished with 40 degrees as you suggest. Arm hair pops off with no pushing when I'm done. :) I have a Calypso, Jr. too (both are fairly recent acquisitions). I'll have to do some side-by-side cutting and see if I can feel the difference that others note.
 
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