Benchmade Nitrous Stryker 912 Defective Lock, Design or User?

[JJPaul]

Hi All,

I was holding my week old Nitrous Stryker 912 and for the second time since I've had the liner lock has opened up on me when I didn't want it to. Basically happens if I grip it very strongly like the first picture below. I can easily make it open up with my grip with a little wiggle of my pointer finger, but I certainly wasn't trying to during those first two times.

So I'm not sure what's going on, am I holding the knife badly, is this particular lock defective or is this a bad design? Seems like regardless of how I hold the knife my finger would be right inline to disengage the lock.

Other then this I really like the knife, of course that's kind of like saying I really like this car but the brakes don't work.

First time taking close up photos so if they are bad I'll take any hints on making them better.

 

[Vivi]

That's weird, in a lot of those photos it looks like you can't unlock the liner.

What you're describing is the nature of liner locks. Most can be unlocked by whittling wood and twisting the blade to pop off shavings for example. I have not handled this particular knife so I don't know how easy it is to do on that design. Some are better than others in this regard.

Maybe find an axis lock model you like? A lot of the BM designs are very similar in size and shape, so you might find something similar to your Stryker.

 

[JJPaul]

That's weird, in a lot of those photos it looks like you can't unlock the liner.

I think that's just the angle of the pictures, the thing unlocks very easily which I think is the problem.

Maybe find an axis lock model you like? A lot of the BM designs are very similar in size and shape, so you might find something similar to your Stryker.

I already have a 710 and have a 610 on the way, just wanted to check out a AO style knife.

 

[Joshua J.]

It's just the liner lock.
This is one of the many reasons I think liner locks should stop being used altogether. Yes, there are a few good ones out there, and yes they can be made well consistently. The problem is that almost no-one is willing to go through all the trouble it takes to do that.

IMO 99% of the time liner locks are used to save money. It's ok on a dress knife (something you'll use like a slip-joint anyway), but a knife like the Stryker should really have a Axis or frame lock.

 

[wwells20]

JJPaul, I just got a mini spearpoint. On mine the lock bar would move all the way to the other liner. I found that the stop pin is adjustable. With a little tinkering, I was able to set it the way I wanted and mine (lock) is very secure. There is a screw (torx #6) on the clip side of the handle. My liners are Ti, guess yours are too. P.S., I really like my mini. :thumbup:

 

[JJPaul]

JJPaul, I just got a mini spearpoint. On mine the lock bar would move all the way to the other liner. I found that the stop pin is adjustable. With a little tinkering, I was able to set it the way I wanted and mine (lock) is very secure. There is a screw (torx #6) on the clip side of the handle. My liners are Ti, guess yours are too. P.S., I really like my mini. :thumbup:

Is this underneath the scales? All I see is 3 screws that seem to be holding the scales in place (and the clip screws).

 

[wwells20]

You can see the screw on the outside of the g-10 on mine. It's just about where the clip screws are. hope this helps. Threre are two screws on the non-lock side and three screws on the lock/clip side on mine. Maybe because mine is a mini?

Also, from the pics, it seems that your lock bar does not have a full arc. Mine has a nice even bow, the full length of the bar. Does that make sense? Looks like yours is kind of straight right in the jimping. ? On a spine whack test, that straightness could make the bar slide off the tang of the blade.

 

[stabman]

Mine had a similar issue when gripped with even moderate force, so I took it apart, peened the end of the liner lock a bit to lengthen it, and now it locks up great!
Voids the warranty, but it works like a dream now.

 

[wwells20]

stadman, that's what i usually do. Glad it worked out for you!:thumbup: I'm lovin this knife.

 

[Fred Sanford]

It's just the liner lock.
This is one of the many reasons I think liner locks should stop being used altogether. Yes, there are a few good ones out there, and yes they can be made well consistently. The problem is that almost no-one is willing to go through all the trouble it takes to do that.

IMO 99% of the time liner locks are used to save money. It's ok on a dress knife (something you'll use like a slip-joint anyway), but a knife like the Stryker should really have a Axis or frame lock.

Agreed.

In the past I could do the same thing ("white knuckle" the lock). I have done it on 3 different Benchmade 910's I used to own. I was also able to do it to a few different Kershaws, Bucks, a BM Dejavoo, and a Mcusta. After that I gave up on liner locks. The only one I have NOT been able to do it to is the Spyderco Military. I still hate liner locks. I am "ok" with frame locks but that's about it.

I would send it back to Benchmade and ask them to swap it with something of similar value but with an Axis lock (like a 707). Either that or trade it to someone for something else.

 

[JJPaul]

Agreed.
I would send it back to Benchmade and ask them to swap it with something of similar value but with an Axis lock (like a 707).

Do you know if Benchmade would actually do something like that? I sent it back to Benchmade to get it serviced but personally don't trust the thing anymore and was going to get rid of it somehow for another BM.